Fuselage - Drums to Disc Brake Conversion

Brakes, Suspension, Rims and Tires

  1. BigBen

    BigBen New Member

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    I will do that, right now waiting on engine and trans back from builds. As soon as i get started on brakes i will post pictures.
    The guys at scarebird are very helpful and willingly offer tech support also.
     
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  2. SF-66TC

    SF-66TC Active Member

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    Glad everything finally worked itself out for you. Now you can offer some other 1st timer some pointers!
     
  3. 70_NPORT

    70_NPORT Well-Known Member

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    Ya...like "you'd better be ready to ask lots of questions"...
     
  4. 70_NPORT

    70_NPORT Well-Known Member

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    so just an update....been a couple weeks since the upgrade...a couple miles here and there. Brakes work fabulously..no pull whatsoever from either side when coming to a stop (was constantly messing around with the drums to fix that)...stops smoothly and quickly...a little less effort...and no fade.
     
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  5. cantflip

    cantflip Old Jagoff with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    In other words... you would do it all again.:thankyou:
     
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  6. 70_NPORT

    70_NPORT Well-Known Member

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    Perhaps...
     
  7. GrandpasDream

    GrandpasDream Member

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    So...I see lots of discussion here on this thread. Wondered if anyone has a condensed version of:

    What actual parts (including part numbers) I need to do the conversion on my 68 Newport?

    Instructions on how to do it. Hopefully step by step?

    There is a couple .pdf files that are attached to this thread but seem to not have 68 included...can anyone help point me in the right direction??
     
  8. BigBen

    BigBen New Member

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  9. traintech55

    traintech55 Senior Member

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    Hello and welcome to the site. There are many ways you can go with this conversion, the main thing is how are you going to drive the car. If you are just going to cruise then you can go one way, if you are going to modify and autocross your car then another. Either way we have the experts here to help you step by step.
     
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  10. GrandpasDream

    GrandpasDream Member

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    This I would appreciate. It would be so beneficial to have the admin make a "sticky" say one for the cruise method the other for autocross? It's quite the task to scan through all 43 posts to see what everyone actually used and found successful- yes I know a first world problem. :) But you know what I mean?

    Thanks for the welcome.
     
  11. Cags70PolaraConvert

    Cags70PolaraConvert Member

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    Welcome Granpasdream.

    Traintech will be a great help, I can attest that. It may be long but read through the thread, lots of good information in there as well. Between the two sources you should get all of your answers.
     
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  12. Ripinator

    Ripinator Senior Member

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    Actually, it would be a good idea for you to peruse through all of the forty-three posts (and more, if you can find 'em). That way you'll get to know us better, as well as find the information you want.
     
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  13. traintech55

    traintech55 Senior Member

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    OK, I take it you are looking for the most dependable system. This is the conversion I did on my 1966 300.
    I will tell you first off that I am not a big fan of the conversion kits out there and for myself I prefer factory parts that were designed for the size of our cars. (I know I am going to catch hell from a lot of members for that statement, but others will agree).
    The first thing to decide is what spindles to use. Chrysler used one spindle for 1972 and another for 1973. The 1972 spindles use the same wheel bearings as your 1968 drum brakes. The 1973 spindles use larger wheel bearings and are getting very scarce and pricey. Whatever year you decide the rotors and wheel bearings are readily available. Both spindles use the same calipers, pads, and hoses.
    The second one is to change your Master cylinder, and Power booster to the 1967 - 1968 Disc Brake ones. These are also available thru parts stores. So whichever you decide then we can walk you thru the installation.
    I also know that I will catch flack about my choice on the Master and Booster, but you have a 4600 pound car that is getting harder to find body parts for everyday. If you have any other questions you can send me a PM.
     
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  14. saylor

    saylor Senior Member

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    call ralph @ ECI and tell him FCBO sent ya

    - saylor
     
  15. crazyboutwagons

    crazyboutwagons Active Member FCBO Gold Member

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    I did the swap on my 68 Plymouth sport suburban wagon.

    I used a complete setup from a 73 Plymouth custom suburban wagon.
    spindles ( just needed cleanup)
    lower ball joints ( were like brand new just needed new dust boots from Summit Racing)
    calipers and rotors (autozone replacements)
    proportioning valve (original was in excellent working condtion)
    master cylinder.( Auto Zone replacement)
    wheel bearings (Rock Auto Timken Brand)
    I was able to flush out all the original brake lines from the 73 parts car as they were rust free (tx car)
    I used the 68 Plymouth original drum brake booster as the previous owner had just replaced it.
    I have put about 1000 miles on car since the upgrade and have had no problems best upgrade ever.
    I purchased the used parts from CT's Auto Ranch in Denton,TX I believe they had two other parts cars in the yard when I bought mine
     
  16. 70_NPORT

    70_NPORT Well-Known Member

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    Been a few months now since the swap. The busted knuckles and skinned fingures from doing this are just memories now. Front brakes work great. Since its been awhile (and my car gets driven alot) I suppose it might not be a bad idea to take a look at the pads..for wear. The pedal stil feels good but.....better safe than twisted around a telephone pole.
     
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  17. cantflip

    cantflip Old Jagoff with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    With something new and/or custom... it's never a bad idea to recheck it periodically... and brakes should get regular check ups anyhow.

    Glad you're pleased with the results. You are largely responsible for my softening my stance on disc brake changeovers. I still don't like anything halfassed to enter into this, but I see the benefits of a well done conversion.
     
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  18. twostick

    twostick Senior Member

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    You need to change that booster out for a dual diaphragm disc booster. A single diaphragm drum booster doesn't have enough boost to PROPERLY energize disc brakes. They may seem to function alright but should you ever find yourself in a situation where you need ALL their potential, you are going to run over whatever you were trying not to.

    Ideally you want to find a 66-68 disc booster but I have one from a 69 300 on my 66 that I think would clear a column shift linkage. 73 for sure is bigger in diameter and while it will bolt on, it interferes with the column shift linkage. Not an issue on a console shift car.

    Kevin
     
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  19. 1966newport

    1966newport Well-Known Member

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    myth
     
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  20. Snotty

    Snotty Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    I converted my car to disks 8 years ago. I've put close to 20,000 miles on it since. I kept, and am still using, the original drum brake booster. I've had no problems and no failures. I have also had panic stops with it - no issues.