Headlight Bulb Supplier

SPF Required

SPF Required

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Can anyone point me to a good supplier for headlight bulbs for a 1968 300? I am potentially looking for both the low and high beam bulbs. And I am not against swapping out the old for some new low(er) voltage LED bulbs, I just want them to look like the vintage ones.

Thank you!
 
I took out the bad headlight to my local auto parts store and ordered a few up.
 
You can go a couple ways. First, and easiest, is just buy some replacement halogens at your nearest parts store. Stay with a "brand" name and you'll be good.

You can upgrade to a something like a Cibie brand light that's a replaceable bulb and a lens/reflector assembly, kind of like a modern car. That's a good upgrade, but you need to get a good brand and not any of the cheap junk that's out there. Some more info here: Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply

I'd stay away from the LED lighting. Most of it is junk.

A good upgrade is a relay system. You can buy them from a couple sources, but they aren't going to play well with your hidden headlights. Here's what I did with my '70 300 so the lights and doors work in harmony. Headlight Relays with Hidden Headlights
 
I'm getting way too old.
17471-1-1100.jpg


You'd walk in, grab two 5001's and two 5006's and that was it.
 
I have been doing this conversion for years...
Hella H4 for the low beams and H1 for high beams.
I use a Putco headlamp plug n play harness that has relays.
Looks stock,but much more brighter and very reliable.
Replacement bulbs and relays can be bought anywhere among your travels.
Shown here is before and after resto pics.
The flat surface of the Hella's are not that noticable and looks stock.
thumbnail_BARGE ON A BUDGET 335.jpg

boab october 2017 002.JPG
 
cbarge said:
My Hella Lights :: Vision Plus 5¾" Conversion Headlamp
and the harness......
https://www.putco.com/heavy-duty-wire-harness-relay
I wrapped my harness with the factory black tape and the relays are tucked neatly on the rad core support next to the battery..
Click to expand...
The relay and harness you've listed won't let the headlight doors work correctly. Great for everything except a car with hidden headlights like the OP's 300.

Chrysler wired the door relay so that it won't close without a return of ground through the filaments on the headlight bulbs. I think this may have been done to alert you of a blown headlight or at least that's the only reason I can figure. The way around is to wire in a Tyco relay (see my link above) to replace the factory door relay. Then you could use that relay you listed... But... If you are wiring in a relay there.... Might as well wire two more....
 
Although I don't like the kind of light LED's produce ,I do like their efficiency. I hope they can develope into something usable in classic cars. I tried using led's in tail lights ,brake lights turn lights etc. Didn't work out as the aim if the LED's were the wrong direction and didn't hit the reflectors so they were dim. But I will say my normal headlights were a bit brighter without all the load from the tail lights.
 
Anyone going the Cibie or Hella route, MAKE SURE YOU AIM THEM CORRECTLY!
Read the directions, yea you know the piece of paper that ain't packing material.
sheeeet it'll be in 40 languages by now! Good Luck...
 
68PK21 440.6bbl said:
Anyone going the Cibie or Hella route, MAKE SURE YOU AIM THEM CORRECTLY!
Read the directions, yea you know the piece of paper that ain't packing material.
sheeeet it'll be in 40 languages by now! Good Luck...
Click to expand...
Very important aiming is.
I have an old school aiming kit.....
boab october 2017 012.JPG

boab october 2017 013.JPG

newfie 2016 300 lites 160.JPG
 
Frankly in my situation I don't drive much at night and anything that pulls as much current or more than stock I am not interested in. I don't want an add on wiring harness to make it happen either.
With a much more stout electrical system that can handle it ,,ok ,,not this old bird. I want bulbs with twice the efficency for the same amount of stock light.
 
SPF Required said:
Being that I don’t have access to that fancy aiming device, I was planning on doing it against the wall per the FSM. Figured/hope that’d work just fine.
Click to expand...

Yep that's what I do, don't have to go all anal 'bout it with measuring things it'll just beat ya up.
Just so the line of the low beams don't go above the trunk of *ahem* normal cars at several car lengths... lol

The inspection station in states that have them will set you straight if it's wrong.
 
Thank you all for your help. Bulbs came today. Installed...low beams are back! $20 all in. Phew... I was cncearned it may have been more nefarious.

But... it appears the little plastic amount for the left/right aiming screw won’t stay in metal panel behind the light. The plastic mount appears to be in really good shape, wondering if there is supposed to be some type of tab on the panel that might be missing?
 
There are these little black spring clips on mine that snap into the hole and trap the plastic piece.
image.jpg
image.jpg
 
Those are way better pics than what I could take. Thank you!

So mine have those same metal clips, but it doesn’t seem to stay in the hole. Both the plastic and the metal clip come out of the hole...
 
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