Help.. 1966 Sport Fury front brakes.

C.Body

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Has anyone else had this brake problem?
My 66 Sport Fury has good brakes. Not hard to press pedal and stops easy going slow. If I am going hiway speed and go to stop normally the RF shutters like a high spot on the drum. The faster I go the harder it shutters? I have
New drums, wheel cylinders, rubber lines, brake shoes.
Could it be worn front end parts?
Would the Mustang front disc brake conversion kit be worth trying? I would like to keep my 14" wheels. Anyone with experience with this disc brake kit off Ebay?
Thanks to all.. Chuck
 

Ross Wooldridge

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Haven't heard of the Mustang front disc conversion before. Can you post a link to the info?

A hot spot on a drum will cause pulsations as you describe, and along with that, having worn front suspension bushings etc. can exacerbate the experience.

Oil on the brake shoe can also contribute to that.
 

413

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Did you turn that RF drum? Does it stop straight on a hard stop form 30 MPH? Usually fluid on the shoes makes them grab at slow speeds.

This is fixable, no need for a swap.
 

Ross Wooldridge

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Thank you!

Where does it say in their website that this is a suitable swap for a C body Mopar? The C body is way heavier than the Mustang II, and their eBay ad clearly says that it's to improve those cars, but of course when you go on the "does this fit my car" list, you can see Plymouth Fury. Personally, I would be wary of such a retrofit, but perhaps it's OK.

Regardless, as noted above, I'd look into what is causing the judder in your car first. You may just need to cut the drum and the problem will go away.
 

C.Body

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Did you turn that RF drum? Does it stop straight on a hard stop form 30 MPH? Usually fluid on the shoes makes them grab at slow speeds.

This is fixable, no need for a swap.
Thank you Sir, it is a new NAPA drum. I took it back to have it turned and they said they checked it and it was not out of round.
 

pomonamissel

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i've been grabbing the front brake disc packages from the 70-72 c bodies , single piston calipers , spindles , brake lines , master cylinder the works . works with 14'' or bigger rims . this one was a 72 fury 3 no one wanted , so it became parts for me and all here . and so did this 70 nyr more door .

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Davea Lux

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Since you have determined that the drum is not out of round. Have you checked the front shock? A bad shock can cause the wheel to hop. Also a broken belt in the tire can also cause the problem you are describing. Try mounting that tire on the rear and see if the problem persists. If the problem goes away, replace the affected tire.

Dave
 

mrfury68

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Check your front end components and the rubber bushings. I have seen bad upper control arm bushings cause problems similar to what you are describing. Also make sure your steering gear bolts are tight. It's a long shot but I've seen my fair share of them over the years start to loosen up and cause all kinds of problems as you might imagine. Good luck.
 

fury fan

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I am wondering why in the world anyone would make flower-shaped rotors???
It would seem like you'd get strange pad wear due to the non-existent part of the rotor constantly going thru between the pads.
Or you mount the pad closer to the ID so that it sweeps fully on the rotor, in which case those lobes of extra material do nothing except add thermal mass.

Am I missing somethign???



1663638676909.png
 

TheRamManINC

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Has anyone else had this brake problem?
My 66 Sport Fury has good brakes. Not hard to press pedal and stops easy going slow. If I am going hiway speed and go to stop normally the RF shutters like a high spot on the drum. The faster I go the harder it shutters? I have
New drums, wheel cylinders, rubber lines, brake shoes.
Could it be worn front end parts?
Would the Mustang front disc brake conversion kit be worth trying? I would like to keep my 14" wheels. Anyone with experience with this disc brake kit off Ebay?
Thanks to all.. Chuck
Disc brake components are matched to weight of car
1. A body’s …dinky brakes
2. B and e …are bigger
3. C body and imperial biggest
Sounds like common sense.this is fact.
Going to speake out….
There are several distributors that sell MOPAR disc brake kits using the KH 4 piston caliper..aluminum copies
Facts.
1.were only used on 65,66 mustang they immediately changed design 67….not good enough
2. 65to 72 a body
2. Never used again…use dinky thin rotor
And caliper is one of the least powerful of all time
3. Many videos on this
 

TheRamManINC

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I am wondering why in the world anyone would make flower-shaped rotors???
It would seem like you'd get strange pad wear due to the non-existent part of the rotor constantly going thru between the pads.
Or you mount the pad closer to the ID so that it sweeps fully on the rotor, in which case those lobes of extra material do nothing except add thermal mass.

Am I missing somethign???



View attachment 559201
Mass of rotor directly proportional to power of brakes
Rotors convert kinetic energy to thermal.
Heavier rotor more heat absorbed before fade.
That’s why rotors match size of car.
That’s fact. This above is unheard of
 

fury fan

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As I think about this more, the heat gradient increases toward the OD of the rotor, as it has increasing linear velocity moving toward the OD.
So with even pressure on the pad, there is more heat generated toward the OD, and more of those trapped gases the experts talk about (which is what drilling/slotting is to solve).
So the lobes of the rotor allow those gasses to really escape, and the geometry of the lobe cutout is (presumably) made to match that gradient.
But I still think, if it was such a great idea, somebody would've introduced it long before now (unless F1, LeMans, etc, have already used this idea?).


Going to speake out….
There are several distributors that sell MOPAR disc brake kits using the KH 4 piston caliper..aluminum copies
Facts.
1.were only used on 65,66 mustang they immediately changed design 67….not good enough
2. 65to 72 a body
2. Never used again…use dinky thin rotor
And caliper is one of the least powerful of all time
3. Many videos on this

But there are 2 other factors involved in the evolution of these brakes:
Cars were getting heavier, even within the same model of car, which doesn't mean those prior brakes weren't good enough for prior cars.
Cost-cutting - single-piston calipers were much cheaper to make, and cheaper/simpler to service.

Many modern cars use multi-piston front calipers because mfg cost/efficiency is light-years better than in 1965-1968. (and so is braking performance, albeit for other reasons also).

The OP wants to retain his 14" wheels, so likely his tires would become the limiting factor in braking (if he converted to an aftermarket 4-piston with 11" rotor).
 
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