Help me figure out how to attack this repair.

[commando1]

Instead of picking my nose, I started picking away at a potential trouble spot. And there it was right at the corner of the trunk rain gutter on the passenger side. I've done this repair before and it always defeats me.
That tells me that I'm doing it wrong. Tell me how you guys do it.

And it's right at the junction of a whole bunch of overlaps.

 

[66/440]

My thought is that most of us want to minimize the area of the repair and in doing so we leave behind unseen corrosion. I would first find a donor panel that has a generous amount of extra length. Then begin to cut back the area on your car until you are sure that you have removed all of the corrosion. be sure to treat the surround metal with an anti rust treatment and use a good zinc weld-thru primer. Prime the back again after welding and paint the back of the repair to inhibit any reoccurrence of rust.
It is interesting that it is happening in this spot, was there ever any rust repair above it around the rear glass trim molding?

 

[MrMoparCHP]

Peel away in layers and reverse.

I would probably try and find a replacement assembly and but weld it in.


Alan

 

[commando1]

Patching in a donor was my first choice. Finding one is gonna be a *****. I'm going to have to go begging in the classified section.

 

[Ironwolf]

Stan, I found this site to be interesting. maybe it will help or give you a few ideas. :dontknow:


http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/replace-muscle-car-metal.cfm

It may not be exactly what your doing however the same repair technique and info may apply ....

 

[70bigblockdodge]

I think a donor will be almost or as bad due to being under the lead. I would fab a patch to eliminate the lap joint and reduce the amount of filler needed to smooth it over. Unless you are doing a 100 point resto which you are not because your going to just drive and enjoy.....

 

[superfragl]

I had the same problem on my Fury. I doubt you will find a good donor piece. Easiest way is to fabricate a new patch and but-weld it. That`s what I did - it was easier that I thought. Especially after fabricating and replacing the whole bottom part of the rear window frame )

 

[300rag]

Chris should be along soon.

 

[detmatt]

Some good advice has been given. I agree that all of the rust needs to be cut out and replaced with clean metal.

 

[66/440]

Just had a thought that might work. Purchase a piece of similar gauge sheet metal, I use Metal Mart here in Houston but I know there are lots of similar places in your area. Probably can get a drop for cheap. Take measurements or Make a template of the trunk seal step, be sure to note diameter of radi. Take everything to a local AC sheet metal shop that fabs duct work and have then bend what you need on a press brake. Should not be very expensive and if you don't have to go all the way to the corner radius you won't have to worry about fabbing that.
i would talk to the fab shop first as they have some size requirements for their brakes, just make what you pick up is not too small fur them to work with.

 

[commando1]

Thanks to all.
Yah, I'm still waiting for Chris. LOL.
I have a small bench top brake that works about half as good as just simply putting the metal piece in a vise and beating it over with a hammer.
Of course ALL the rust will be cut out. You can see the chalk line in the pic.

It's dumb little pieces like this with multiple very small bends and compound curves that make this a bigger P.I.T.A. than patching in a ¼.

I know HOW to do it. I was just seeing if anybody had a clever trick that helped them make it an easier task.

 

[azblackhemi]

Chris should be along soon.

Ok I'm here. Sorry I was gone all weekend and then got sick on my way home. Anyway a good donor piece welded in would be my choice. I have two 68 parts car so I should be able to come up with a good piece for you. I will go out and look this morning.

 

[commando1]

Stan, I found this site to be interesting. maybe it will help or give you a few ideas. :dontknow:


http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/replace-muscle-car-metal.cfm






It may not be exactly what your doing however the same repair technique and info may apply ....

Damn, that looks JUST like my welding. Lol.

 

[commando1]

Ok I'm here. Sorry I was gone all weekend and then got sick on my way home. Anyway a good donor piece welded in would be my choice. I have two 68 parts car so I should be able to come up with a good piece for you. I will go out and look this morning.

Awesome.
I'll hold off to see if you can find a donor patch.
And I hope you're feeling better.
Thanks.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

Damn, that looks JUST like my welding. Lol.

Not really a problem, just requires extra grinding.


Alan

 

[azblackhemi]

When making sheet metal repairs don't be concerned with the look of your welds. You can't use enough heat to make a pretty bead with out warping the hell out of it. The welds in the above picture are as good as it gets. On a piece with out all the bends it won't be that nice because a flat piece it warps a lot easier.

 

[66/440]

My thought is that most of us want to minimize the area of the repair and in doing so we leave behind unseen corrosion. I would first find a donor panel that has a generous amount of extra length. Then begin to cut back the area on your car until you are sure that you have removed all of the corrosion. be sure to treat the surround metal with an anti rust treatment and use a good zinc weld-thru primer. Prime the back again after welding and paint the back of the repair to inhibit any reoccurrence of rust.
It is interesting that it is happening in this spot, was there ever any rust repair above it around the rear glass trim molding?

Stan, I did not mean to insult your abilities. I have not been here long enough to know or remember what everybody can or cannot do. In the future if I am stating the obvious say so, it wont hurt my feelings....well if it does I will get over it.

 

[66/440]

Have you had the opportunity to look at the back of the Dutchman to see if there other problem areas?

 

[commando1]

Have you had the opportunity to look at the back of the Dutchman to see if there other problem areas?

Yes and it's dry as a bone. The trough under the vent slots looks like it was installed yesterday.

It's just that one 6" piece and I know why. The factory did a crap job of mating the seams and left huge gap for water to get trapped.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

One tip I have for anybody is mig gun in one hand air blow gun in the other. Make your circle for your spot weld and as soon as the cherry is gone I blow air on it, cleans any light scale and cools metal all the way back down so you don't start to collect heat even keeping your spots separated. That's all I've got.