Horn issues -1977 Royal Monaco Brougham

TexCarGuy

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Just got my 1977 Royal Monaco Brougham. This is a dumb question: where is the horn? The 3 spoke wheel has some flexible plastic in the middle of each spoke. If that is where the horn is located, is it an electrical connection issue? Not sure where to start to trouble shoot this as I need to figure it out before I get it inspected to transfer the title to my name. Any help or info would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
Just got my 1977 Royal Monaco Brougham. This is a dumb question: where is the horn? The 3 spoke wheel has some flexible plastic in the middle of each spoke. If that is where the horn is located, is it an electrical connection issue? Not sure where to start to trouble shoot this as I need to figure it out before I get it inspected to transfer the title to my name. Any help or info would be appreciated. Thanks!
From Hamtramck Historical...

77_Royal_Monaco_0007.jpg
 
Horn inop? FIRST thing is to check the horn relay, usually plugs into the fuse block on the inside. Pull it out and smell it. IF it smells burnt, pry off the tabs on the cover and inspect. If it's cooked, replace it. See if the horn now works.

If not, then move upward to the turn signal switch and steering wheel switches. Might check for conitinuity in the circuit from the steering wheel.

Turn signal switch? That's where the interface is between the steering wheel switch, the cancelling cam, and the horn relay.

Here's what happened on my '70 Monaco with the factory Rim Blow Steering wheel. When I bought it used in '75, the dealer said he drove the car one day and discovered that the horn didn't work. The salesman and I figured that he tried to activate the horn using the center pad on the steering wheel. When I later investigated, the horn relay was cooked. So I got another one. The rim blow switch was hard to use, but it did work.

When the inside temp of the car passed 80 degrees F, the rim blow switch would self-activate, which is why the horn relay cooked. BUT it also got the contact in the turn signal switch's spring hot enough that it lost its tension, so it didn't contact the back of the cancelling cam to complete the circuit. Replaced the turn signal switch and it all worked again, until the temp got past 80 degrees F inside the car. Unplugged the horn relay.

The horn (or which there should be TWO, either side-by-side or near each other) might be having some issues. IF you can hear a thunk when the horn is activated, the horn is bad and probably needs replacing. Sometimes, you can free it up with some penetrating oil or try adjusting it with the small adjusting "bolt" on one side of it.

Might find a FSM on one of the websites, then download it. Use it as a resource for getting the steering wheel off and the illustrations of the turn signal switch and such. Might also look for a Chrysler parts book for that model year, which should have an exploded illustration of the steering column and such. Which can also relate to the particular steering wheel on the car, too.

There are a few tricks on getting the wheel off and such. PM me if you have any questions.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
Horn inop? FIRST thing is to check the horn relay, usually plugs into the fuse block on the inside. Pull it out and smell it. IF it smells burnt, pry off the tabs on the cover and inspect. If it's cooked, replace it. See if the horn now works.

If not, then move upward to the turn signal switch and steering wheel switches. Might check for conitinuity in the circuit from the steering wheel.

Turn signal switch? That's where the interface is between the steering wheel switch, the cancelling cam, and the horn relay.

Here's what happened on my '70 Monaco with the factory Rim Blow Steering wheel. When I bought it used in '75, the dealer said he drove the car one day and discovered that the horn didn't work. The salesman and I figured that he tried to activate the horn using the center pad on the steering wheel. When I later investigated, the horn relay was cooked. So I got another one. The rim blow switch was hard to use, but it did work.

When the inside temp of the car passed 80 degrees F, the rim blow switch would self-activate, which is why the horn relay cooked. BUT it also got the contact in the turn signal switch's spring hot enough that it lost its tension, so it didn't contact the back of the cancelling cam to complete the circuit. Replaced the turn signal switch and it all worked again, until the temp got past 80 degrees F inside the car. Unplugged the horn relay.

The horn (or which there should be TWO, either side-by-side or near each other) might be having some issues. IF you can hear a thunk when the horn is activated, the horn is bad and probably needs replacing. Sometimes, you can free it up with some penetrating oil or try adjusting it with the small adjusting "bolt" on one side of it.

Might find a FSM on one of the websites, then download it. Use it as a resource for getting the steering wheel off and the illustrations of the turn signal switch and such. Might also look for a Chrysler parts book for that model year, which should have an exploded illustration of the steering column and such. Which can also relate to the particular steering wheel on the car, too.

There are a few tricks on getting the wheel off and such. PM me if you have any questions.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

OK, thanks for the great info! Will do!
 
The horn buttons on each spoke of that wheel were horrible from new.
Add 40+ years and they are even worse.
 
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