How often do you start up your cars in winter months..

[thrashingcows]

Forgot to add that if your storing the car all winter to use a fuel stabilizer. I will recommend the Sta-bil Marine formula, fuel stabilizer. The marine stuff came highly recommended to me, and I have been using it year round in everything for 4-5 years now with no issues at all. It is one of the best all around stabilizers, and helps shield against the ethanol fuel blends and the nasty things that happen with it, and can also be used year round to help fight the ethanol monster.

 

[Welder guy]

About once a month after a few beers I will start the old girl up let here idle for 20 minutes then I will rev it a few times just to let the neighbours know I'm home. This usually happens at about 11:30 pm on a Saturday night.

 

[Turboomni]

quote: January and I'm still driving my cars with the tops down. Texas!! Quote



No bragging either.....,..

 

[jct]

it's been an overly warmer than normal winter i'm going to take it out for the weekend

 

[J-sons-64-300]

I only start mine in the winter because I hate seeing it sit there all cold and lonely It hurts to not drive it for that long

 

[Turboomni]

Does anyone remember way back there was a kit advertised that was an electric pump that would pressurize the oil system before you turned it over to start? It touted no more massive engine wear at start up because of oil starvation till the oil pump could catch up.

 

[Big_John]

Does anyone remember way back there was a kit advertised that was an electric pump that would pressurize the oil system before you turned it over to start? It touted no more massive engine wear at start up because of oil starvation till the oil pump could catch up.

If you really want to do that, pick up an oil pump primer and pull the distributor. Chuck it in a drill and spin it ccw for a big block and cw for a small block. Cost is ~$20 for the primer.

I only do that on fresh engines myself, but it sure won't hurt.

 

[Wildaugust]

Never.

Since the early 80's I have been storing at least one vehicle every winter. Back then storing them meant putting them up on blocks in the driveway with the wheels on, but off the ground, maybe just touching the ground so there would be no or little weight on them. If I could access the spark plugs, I would remove them and shoot 10 squirts or so of oil into the cylinders, put a wrench (socket) on the crank bolt and turn the engine a couple of times. Then I'd put the plugs back in and leave it 'til spring. The only other thing I would do would be to make sure the coolant was mixed for -55 F. Otherwise I would drain the coolant. I've done it either way. I didn't cover them. They just sat out and got covered with snow. The snow itself didn't hurt them. If anything, the hot sun did more damage to them during summer when I was driving them.

Now that I store them in my garage I don't put them up on blocks any more. In late autumn I will fill the tank with fresh gas. I will mix fuel stabilizer and 2-cycle oil into that last fill of the season. I will run my engines for a few minutes, idling, while I spray some "fogging oil" into the carb. Then I quickly shut the engine off. Because it's easy to remove the plugs in my 390, I still shoot about 10 squirts of oil into all of the cylinders and put a socket on the crankshaft bolt. A couple of turns by hand and I'm done. I don't drain my coolant these days. I just check to make sure that it's good to -55 F. I do drain my windshield washer reservoirs.

I have always removed my batteries for winter and stored them indoors. I check the liquid level and then put them on a trickle charge for 45 minutes or so about once a month. I get many years of life out of my batteries.

Because my garage is unheated I leave my windows rolled down. If you store a vehicle all winter in an unheated garage with the windows rolled all the way up, you will very likely get mold in your interior.

These are my methods for storing my vehicles over winter. I've never had any serious issues doing it this way.

 

[Wonderwagon]

When my wagon went into storage I would start it once a month, and bring it up to temp and go through the gears. Due demands of work, that is no longer the case. Both cars get an oil change in the spring. The challenger, gets a full fill of gas and gas stabilizer, battery pulled out and placed on a rubber mat, and put on a trickle charger. Spring start up, I pull the fuse for the fuel pump and dry crank, hopefully getting some oil circulated, and then start with gas. I will run the tank down as soon as possible and refill with fresh gas. Has worked well so far, with that car. Once the wagon is back, will do similar with it

 

[Turboomni]

Spring start up, I pull the fuse for the fuel pump and dry crank, hopefully getting some oil circulated, and then start with gas.

That is what I was thinking about,,basically priming and pushing some oil around before loading all the bearings under power.

 

[thrashingcows]

If you really want to do that, pick up an oil pump primer and pull the distributor. Chuck it in a drill and spin it ccw for a big block and cw for a small block. Cost is ~$20 for the primer.

I only do that on fresh engines myself, but it sure won't hurt.

That is what I was thinking about,,basically priming and pushing some oil around before loading all the bearings under power.

I agree wit Big-John , Be better to use the priming tool...you'll get way better oiling thorough the motor then just cranking it.

 

[rapidtrans]

I'll start my car only to move it for access to back corner of garage. Use a Battery Tender for about a week each month. So far we haven't had a real deep freeze yet and garage has stayed comfortable.
Ten years ago i trickle charged a battery dry and blew the top off the thing. Fortunately it was out of the car but did make a mess in garage.

 

[polara71]

A battery tender won't let that happen

 

[Turboomni]

I agree wit Big-John , Be better to use the priming tool...you'll get way better oiling thorough the motor then just cranking it.

No doubt about that for sure. But wouldn't cranking the engine to move the oil through the engine before firing be better than just starting it up bone dry?

 

[detmatt]

No doubt about that for sure. But wouldn't cranking the engine to move the oil through the engine before firing be better than just starting it up bone dry?

I'm guessing once the pump picks up the oil it's just a matter of a few revolutions before the oil is throughout and I don't think it matters what rpm that happens. If I were going to worry about getting the oil circulated before the first start I would absolutely pull the distributor and prime it.

 

[bluefury361]

I start the Admiral several times a week so I can get to the beach.

 

[Turboomni]

I'm guessing once the pump picks up the oil it's just a matter of a few revolutions before the oil is throughout and I don't think it matters what rpm that happens. If I were going to worry about getting the oil circulated before the first start I would absolutely pull the distributor and prime it.

I'm not worried about it ,just wondered what you all thought. Interesting.

 

[cantflip]

No doubt about that for sure. But wouldn't cranking the engine to move the oil through the engine before firing be better than just starting it up bone dry?

I'm guessing once the pump picks up the oil it's just a matter of a few revolutions before the oil is throughout and I don't think it matters what rpm that happens. If I were going to worry about getting the oil circulated before the first start I would absolutely pull the distributor and prime it.

Dry starting one that sat for a long time, you could be cranking for a long time to build pressure, then it's a matter of how much you want the system to be able to oil everything other than the mains... newer stuff without a distributor recommend several more 15-20 second cranking sessions once oil pressure is established.

I believe the wear factor is negligible between pulling the distributor or not... priming that way is generally reserved for fresh builds. The only downside of not running is eventually the oil film will all be in the pan... and moisture could cause surface rust to form someplace like a bore or a cam lobe. If you have a dry environment, shouldn't be an issue. I kinda like the exhaust plug idea, mouse piss would destroy an engine... but I don't believe that to a very common issue unless the car is infested as well. Don't forget the transmission oil will all settle too , and it is equally susceptible to rust. I have made a lot of sitting engines run again with no obvious ill effects, so I consider most of this to be speculation and insurance.

The fuel system without a doubt is better off being used so varnish doesn't form. If you let it sit too long, try starting it and then let it sit a day so the fuel can help dissolve some of the "glue" left behind. The carb is going to be a weak point regardless of how you let it sit unused. But I would effort a tank of non-ethanol or just leave it dry. My thoughts only, no science or manufacturer recommendation as to how to abandon a car for 6 months.