I’ve got a sinking feeling...... ELB TQ

[LeBaron1973]

I wish you an easily detected and corrected issue. Otherwise would it be necessary to pull the engine for strip down, checking and repair, and reassembly like you've seemingly done with everything else?

Considering the unexpected surprises like the cracked carb, there may be similar surprises inside the engine.

You can always sell it and fly to Calgary for a beer, would be nice to meet you.

All the best, you're second only to vdk2010 in Germany for determination and attention to detail.

 

[73 T&C]

Wow... I keep missing this thread... start with the smoke, IMO it's the easiest and may show something fun. Without noise or an oil light blinking, I'm a touch skeptical about oil pressure problems... and would address the thought with a new filter before doing any other diagnosis. Too many failed bypass valves in my experience to start anywhere else.

Good idea..... and easy.

 

[73 T&C]

I wish you an easily detected and corrected issue. Otherwise would it be necessary to pull the engine for strip down, checking and repair, and reassembly like you've seemingly done with everything else?

Considering the unexpected surprises like the cracked carb, there may be similar surprises inside the engine.

Thanks.

Id rather not pull the engine but may end up there. If I do, I’d rebuild it ground up.

Starting with the simple and easy first.

Javier

 

[commando1]

And then you get to start all over again dialing in the carb....

 

[73 T&C]

And then you get to start all over again dialing in the carb....

Not hardly.

This one’s good and fixed. I could tell the moment she fired. Nice even and smooth. Took 15 minutes to set. And 3 minutes the next day to set the cold idle. When it’s right... it’s right.

I always think (make the mistake) that I can adjust out a fault.

Not the first time.

It’s my thing.... my weakness. The hubris of knowing and doing. The distraction of a puzzle.

 

[commando1]

Because you are Sparticus.

 

[73 T&C]

I wish you an easily detected and corrected issue. Otherwise would it be necessary to pull the engine for strip down, checking and repair, and reassembly like you've seemingly done with everything else?

Considering the unexpected surprises like the cracked carb, there may be similar surprises inside the engine.

You can always sell it and fly to Calgary for a beer, would be nice to meet you.

All the best, you're second only to vdk2010 in Germany for determination and attention to detail.

 

[73 T&C]

Heady company indeed.. vdk2010 is my hero!

 

[Ripinator]

Because you are Sparticus.

No. I am Spartacus!

 

[73 T&C]

So.... after four days of almost perfect motoring following the latest rebuild and phenolic body swap due to a crack... (car still has that little miss/uneven idle but it was getting better)..... car started to give no start issues traced to a bad pickup coil.

In the process of changing out the pickup coil. The carb stared leaking profusely from the passenger side. It looked like the passenger side main jet well completely let go from the amount of fuel it was loosing.

Good news is that the pump seems to be working fine..... judging from the fuel spilling out.

Obviously, timing reset came to a halt pending carb issue.

Ran came out this morning. Here’s the tear down, some tips, diagnosis, repair and interim testing. And, since this is the ELB TQ thread I figured I would put this info here.....

Back to the kitchen ..... and into the air conditioning with TV and food.... not to mention a clean environment.

I learned some time ago that the little screws come out much easier with the covers for the vents.... use the same trick on the way in too.

The secret to not ruining the heads on the 10 main screws is to use a screwdriver that actually fits the head. This one I salvaged from the trunck of a car in the junkyard and took a grinding wheel to it to fit tight into the heads. I keep it and my other TQ tools in a drawer just for them.

Rights side (passenger side) of carb was completely wet with fuel.

A few very light taps with the back of the screw driver to the main jet well cap was all it took.

Right well cap came out completely clean looking almost NOS. Even the original 40 year old epoxy was shiny.

Left side cap was good and tigh. So much so, that I tapped it pretty hard and nada...

Life is simpler if your organized.

 

[73 T&C]

Now for cleanup and repair.

As this a fairly common problem on these carbs now that they’re 40+ years young, I’ll be very specific. First to test the remaining original seal after tapping on it to see if I didn’t break the seal.

Old disposable roasting pan and a few paper towels on the bottom to place the bowl full of gas and wait. Do not over fill the wells! 1/4” below height of primary well top is more than enough. Cover the thing to limit evaporation and condensation.

Come back in a while... in this case a few hours while doing some more honey do’s. And check for signs of weeping or leaks.

cover off. Level is almost where I left it. No signs of dripping.... I think we’re good here.

With the main jet well cap off time to clean it up for new epoxy.

I use the small blade of my carry Swiss Army knife. I like the curve and the deep edge and thickness of the blade for this. Carefully using the wedge of the blade under the old epoxy flashing I pry gently up and it begins to flake off.

I do the same around the inside.

While going around I notice a hairline break in the epoxy

Here it is after fully cleaned. I believe this was the source of the problem.

 

[commando1]

 

[LocuMob]

View attachment 213560

Right?

 

[Ripinator]

 

[commando1]

View attachment 213631

Yes. Sorry. I forgot the popcorn. Thank you, Rip...

 

[73 T&C]

To clean the rest of any remaining old epoxy.....

I drag the blade across the edge to avoid gouging the edge. I then clean it all up with alcohol to get any remaining oils and help assure a good bond.

A note about which JB Weld to use: there are e several types. All are resistant to petroleum products but the original non-quick setting is rated to over 500 degrees of heat. So I use it and invest the time.

I also keep the mixing pad to guage curing and when I can assemble. In this case, I want to test them both again. So I go to dinner and a movie with the family and let it set overnight for a total of 20 hours.

Using my smallest standard screw driver, I carefully set a bead of epoxy around the edge of the cap. The slow setting epoxy will normally pull a short “string” of material that I can just lay along the edge. I also put a little extra where the hairline crack in the edge was found.

Once I get it all the way around, it’s just a matter of putting the cap back on.

here it is from the other side.

 

[73 T&C]

It’s Sunday!!!!! Time to get back to work. So after taking my the wife out for an early breakfast with friends, I come back to my traditional Bloody Mary (light on the vodka) and it’s back to work.

I love Sunday mornings.

Started by testing the phenolic bowl for leaks.

This is what I mean by full... more than that and the gas starts creeping all over and down.

Taken to just below the top of the primary wells.

Cover and wait......
Citroën hydraulic spheres.... 101 uses.

 

[73 T&C]

Before assembly of the carb.... I’m thinking about changing the main jet flow needles. But first a quick comparison.

The original needles out of the 9180s TQ are the 2159 on the bottom. On the top, are some earlier TQ needles marked 1996. I will be installing the 1996 needles to help with the part throttle umph a bit.

Above the needles is a before and after of the well seals and why they need to be changed.

I used a little bit of neverdull to clean them up before measuring them.

Here are the dimensions....

I’ll report on that after it’s all in and working..... and I get the new muffler... probably tomorrow.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Before assembly of the carb.... I’m thinking about changing the main jet flow needles. But first a quick comparison.

View attachment 213770

The original needles out of the 9180s TQ are the 2159 on the right. On the left are some earlier TQ needles marked 1996. I will be installing the 1996 needles to help with the part throttle umph a bit.

Above the needles is a before and after of the well seals and why they need to be changed.

View attachment 213771

I used a little bit of neverdull to clean them up before measuring them.

View attachment 213772

Here are the dimensions....

I’ll report on that after it’s all in and working..... and I get the new muffler... probably tomorrow.

That should fatten you up just enough to run on the ethonol gas. Very good move IMHO.

 

[commando1]

Citroën hydraulic spheres....

I used a little bit of neverdull to clean them up before measuring them.

Here are the dimensions....

A Beautiful Mind...