I give up

Oh I don't know, I find it rather witty.

Now as far as the warning, are we talking lug nuts, wing nuts.... lock nuts???
 
has2bmopar said:
I may have a very simple solution if it is a very simple problem, which from your original description it does sound right.

Take out your mixture screws and blast some compressed air through the ports, then reinstall your screws to your initial 2 turns out. You will know in short order if this worked and you can then do your final adjustment when it's warmed up.

It may sound dumb, but it has happened to me 6-7 times as I have quite a few vehicles that get run infrequently. It is just some little fliggin that gets lodged in your idle circuit, and everything seems fine just above idle.

If we are taking votes here I like the the AFB/AVS style carbs the best for most places, as they don't have any gaskets below your fuel level that can cause your carb to leak, as with the Thermoquad also. In my experience I have just had less trouble with the Carter based carbs.

One thing I suggest with the AFB/AVS is that you run an isolator to keep it cooler, so they start better when hot.

If you want all out performance for a street/strip car, the HP series Holley would be my choice.
Click to expand...

Yep, got it sitting on an isolator already. My Holley leaked gas too, which is yet another reason why I tossed it, could smell gas sometimes after long trips.

I'm not looking for all out performance--just a good solid dependable ride that can push 4000lbs car moderately well. It's very strong esp. at top end, I can push the throttle down at 85/90mph and the 383 will accelerate quite nicely and pass 100 mph with a nice head of steam, but I don't stay there as the rest of her is not up to prolonged triple digit speeds....yet:grin:
 
70FuselageImperial said:
WOT is still nice however I cannot get the carburetor to idle worth a damn. After a few moments at a stop lights it will idle like a cylinder is dead. When I get back on the interstate and get the mph's up this condition clears up completely. :icon_study:
Click to expand...


Have you tried pulling out your mixture screws to blast some air through your idle cicuit yet?

It is probably the simplest thing to eliminate, and it sounds like the problem from your description.

If this doesn't clear it up, you could pull the carb off, pull out your metering rods and springs, followed by the top of the carb then slide a pin out of one of your floats to check the needle, if it isn't the Carter style pointed needle and seat, replace them.

I would think now that Carter isn't producing carburetors anymore that Edelbrock would have made the switch by now.
 
Last edited:
Ray said:
This is a car site keep using words like that and someone is likely to kick you in the nuts. :wav:
Click to expand...
Just trying yo keep this forum at a higher level than Moparts where you all too often see:
"new breaks...", or
""needs restored...". :tied up:
 
Wow,somewhere along the line this turned into a holley vs. edelbrock vs thermoquad battle and you still aint solved the problem.As far as the guy who said all edelbrocks are junk, that just means he has little knowledge of carb tuning(since he sent his to someone else to get jetted I'm guessing he dont understand Holley's either) This problem is just like any other,a simple process of elemination. No carb can just be bolted on and run its absolute best. I agree with taking the idle mixture screws out and blowing some air through to clear them(dont shoot 120 lbs of air in there) Does your car have a fuel filter? You might have some foreign matter in your jets. There are tons of little things that can cause these problems you just have to work through them one by one.
 
i have that 650 on 2 cars, adjusted idle speed and had to slow down the air door.
 
commando1 said:
Just trying yo keep this forum at a higher level than Moparts where you all too often see:
"new breaks...", or
""needs restored...". :tied up:
Click to expand...


Higher level.
BWAHAHAHA! To accomplish that all you need do is stand up.
 
:sSig_thankyou:...........................................................................:hug:
 
70FuselageImperial said:
Negative on the cam, car is 2bbl 383 from the factory, it is rebuilt with 383/440 magnum spec cam thrown in for starters....and the carb is an electric choke model (edlebrock "thunder AVS" model). I have the Ebrock tuning book, but it might as well be in Swahili with a martian dialect....I NEVER read stuff like that -- if I do it just gets more confusing. I like to do things by my eyes, ears, nose, and sometimes even..taste (don't ask).

I was just talking to a local mopar engine builder here who builds for street/race and race/strip applications this morning and he says Edlebrock carbs are junk: you can either get them to idle nicely OR to WOT nicely, but you can never get them to do BOTH nicely at the same time. He happens to run a 72' Dodge Dart w/ stout 383 and 67 Coronet w/a forged crank 440. He switched both cars over to Holley carbs and then shopped the jetting work out to a carb specialist...has no problems whatsoever with them in that area (induction)....thinks I'm wasting time with the Ebrock setup....nice to hear, of course. If ONLY it would idle like it WOT's the world would be a nicer place.
Click to expand...
your engine guy is correct. eddies are cheap. they look nice but thats about it. run a proform if you can afford it . they are in my opinion the best carb on the market . basically a holley with balls.
 
70FuselageImperial said:
A few weeks ago I bought a brand spanking new Edlebrock 650cfm AVS carb to go on my 383. Did the install, everything went well on start up: no erratic idle, no vacuum leaks, no fuel leak or smell, yada yada, and WOT down interstate 295 are beautiful (every time). Fast forward to now: WOT is still nice however I cannot get the carburetor to idle worth a damn.

...this problem has gradually crept up to the point its a real chore to keep from shutting down from the poor idle at stops.
Click to expand...

Sounds like it was running fine in the beginning, so it is not anything spontaneously unadjusting itself, and it certainly eliminates a design flaw.

First and best guess is debris somewhere it doesn't belong. Blow out your idle circuits.

Second - Turn your ignition on and check to be sure your choke is releasing tension and opening in a reasonable amount of time.

Third - I have had issues with the flat type Edelbrock needle and seats, if they started seeping, the accumulating fuel could be loading your engine up at idle. I have not been inside the Edelbrock AVS, but I have put Carter needle and seats in many of the AFB based Edelbrocks, and again have had excellent luck with them.

Don't ever use methanol (Heet) to deal with moisture in your fuel, as it can damage seals that are impervious to fuel, ethanol however is fine.

If you want a Holley style carb, buy a Holley, not Chinese copied peices, assembled in the USA.

If anyone convinces you that the carb you bought is junk, I'll buy it for whatever nearly new junk carbs go for these days, as I am going to put two of them on my 572 Hemi.
 
Last edited:
hemichuck said:
Wow,somewhere along the line this turned into a holley vs. edelbrock vs thermoquad battle and you still aint solved the problem.As far as the guy who said all edelbrocks are junk, that just means he has little knowledge of carb tuning(since he sent his to someone else to get jetted I'm guessing he doesn't understand Holley's either) This problem is just like any other,a simple process of elemination. No carb can just be bolted on and run its absolute best. I agree with taking the idle mixture screws out and blowing some air through to clear them(dont shoot 120 lbs of air in there) Does your car have a fuel filter? You might have some foreign matter in your jets. There are tons of little things that can cause these problems you just have to work through them one by one.
Click to expand...

All very agreeable.
 
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