i struck oil! All over the side of the motor and valley pan :)

I never could sort out when you should use red, bue, or black. Help pops out here, Nick.

Posted via Topify using Android
Okey Dokey pops, young buck to the Rescue

I decided I would crack out the text book and give you and exact answer, I must say it makes a great book end, but it makes a better resource sometimes.

On the subject of Anerobic sealers "They are used only on precision machined parts" Pg. 909 Automotive Service 4th edition.

On to RTV's.

"it is an Aerobic sealer. It is never to be used around Fuel, as Gasoline breaks down Silicone."

"High Temperature RTV Silicone is often red in color, and this is due to the addition of Iron Oxides."

"Low Volatile RTV is Sensor safe,it however takes longer to cure and is usually Blue in color"

Black has somewhat become the all purpose silicone, years ago the blue was the only sensor safe silicone, but now it comes in black as well, however the Black, grey, white is still usually the generic or multipurpose stuff, Red/ orange is almost always the high temp silicone.

I hope this makes any sense at all.

Nick
 
nice info ^^ up there lol we can glue your **** back together, no matter if its fuel, oil, or heat :)

I put it all together this morning...you got to get up early around here, it was 90* by 9am... so the valley pan and intake are setting up now.. will test tomorrow morning after the pookey cures.
 
o ya to the point ^^ up there,, I put blue fuel resist pookey around the ports, and black #2 everywhere else, + an extra dab in each corner.
 
Call it Poki, Pookey, Gorilla Snot, or any thing else that works for yeah. I've found that the cute little squeeze tubes of the Black Crap that Mother Mopar sells at their partz counter iz hard to beat, temprature proof, and pretty leak proof if you apply it right, My .02s
 
I love this idea saylor! ...I'm gonna do that if I can find the lower tube and a 'T' block


idea.jpg

idea.jpg
 
heh I dunno if you are serious or not :)

the purists here bagged on me pretty good for that one. that's my oil pressure kill switch for my electric fuel pump.

needs a piece of wire loom on it to clean the look up, but ya - $10 at lowes for the tube and the T both. Brass is expensive right now...

there is a post from me somewhere about adding the FP and switch and relay. But that goes into the oil senso hole, then the clear tube goes to my cheap under dash sun oil pressure gauge, and the silver and black thing with the wires is the kill switch.
 
OMFG!!! "Pookie" is the pet name I gave my wife 20 years ago when we first started dating. Was thinking something cuddly at the time. Later found out that Garfield called his teddy bear "Pookie". Now I can't help but laugh when I call my wife pookie, and can't help but wonder what the *%$# that cartoon cat has been doing with that bear, lol.
 
OMFG!!! "Pookie" is the pet name I gave my wife 20 years ago when we first started dating. Was thinking something cuddly at the time. Later found out that Garfield called his teddy bear "Pookie". Now I can't help but laugh when I call my wife pookie, and can't help but wonder what the *%$# that cartoon cat has been doing with that bear, lol.

Something to do with No.2......
 
I was serious. I figured I would like to have not only the mechanical oil preasure guage but the 'dummy' oil preasure light in the dash as well.

Additionally I didnt know you were also using that sensor as a fuel cut-off switch as well... very cool and innovative as well. Thank you


heh I dunno if you are serious or not :)

the purists here bagged on me pretty good for that one. that's my oil pressure kill switch for my electric fuel pump.

needs a piece of wire loom on it to clean the look up, but ya - $10 at lowes for the tube and the T both. Brass is expensive right now...

there is a post from me somewhere about adding the FP and switch and relay. But that goes into the oil senso hole, then the clear tube goes to my cheap under dash sun oil pressure gauge, and the silver and black thing with the wires is the kill switch.
 
that would work, for sure. unless you can find the 'other' port mentioned above ^^ - I haven't gone looking for it it's too damn hot here to work on cars right now.

that switch is from napa, I cant find the link, but its about $14 bucks and has 3 prongs - S, I, P. Starter, Ignition, Pump. When you turn the key S and P close so it pumps when you are cranking. When oil pressure exists (the motor is running) I and P close. If you loose oil pressure, S and P close, but your key is not in S position, so the pump shuts off. I also have it running thru a relay so I can draw power direct from BATT. Then thru an inline 5A fuse to the pump. I thought I wrote it all up here somewhere in the forum but cannot find it right now.

if you wanted to be really cool, you could also wire in a rollover & shock switch, so if you flipped or got hit real hard it would stop the pump also. I heard the ford switch is easy to wire in, like out of a taurus or something, it was interior-trunk mounted I think.
 
Back
Top