Is this crap in the transmission pan normal?

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1970 300 - I put about 500 miles per yr on this car. Mostly driving around town so not much highway. Besides the 2nd to 3rd problem I think we fixed in another post, thanks to 413, thethee, cbody67...ok, i can't list everyone but anyhow, transmission never had a smell, odd color or weird sounds. I haven't changed the fluid in 20yrs (10,000 miles ). With just straight Castrol ATF+4, It was leaking for years around the shifter input and rear seal so I put 1/2 pint of AT205 sealer which worked great for such a little amount. No drips after that. I think I added fluid once about 10yrs ago. Looks like I waited too long but at 500-1000 miles per yrear, how long can I wait to change the fluid?

Old fluid that I took out looks and flows almost like new. I thought Great !, until I removed pan and saw this. Are all those black specks from the gasket? I know some crap is normal. Is this some? If its more than normal, anything special I need to do? I'm going to put ATF+4, new filter and gasket. I was thinking of adding 1/2 qt of Lucas transmission medic in it too.

Oh yeah, should I put a magnet inside like new cars have? If so where and what size? Thanks

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Toolmanmike

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Yep. normal. Spray it out with brake clean, new filter and fluid. Check the fluid level in neutral, warm. block the wheels.
 

Toolmanmike

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1970 300 - I put about 500 miles per yr on this car. Mostly driving around town so not much highway. Besides the 2nd to 3rd problem I think we fixed in another post, thanks to 413, thethee, cbody67...ok, i can't list everyone but anyhow, transmission never had a smell, odd color or weird sounds. I haven't changed the fluid in 20yrs (10,000 miles ). With just straight Castrol ATF+4, It was leaking for years around the shifter input and rear seal so I put 1/2 pint of AT205 sealer which worked great for such a little amount. No drips after that. I think I added fluid once about 10yrs ago. Looks like I waited too long but at 500-1000 miles per yrear, how long can I wait to change the fluid?

Old fluid that I took out looks and flows almost like new. I thought Great !, until I removed pan and saw this. Are all those black specks from the gasket? I know some crap is normal. Is this some? If its more than normal, anything special I need to do? I'm going to put ATF+4, new filter and gasket. I was thinking of adding 1/2 qt of Lucas transmission medic in it too.

Oh yeah, should I put a magnet inside like new cars have? If so where and what size? Thanks

View attachment 544676
View attachment 544677
ATF 3 for the win..at least a half pint over filled.
 
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Uh, oh, here we go again...hee, hee....20yrs ago another group said to use ATF+4 since it will clean better, last longer than ATF3, but then some people said they use Ford Type F and some said to mix both. Soooo, which is best for a completely stock, not rebuilt 727?

I don't like feeling the shifts, just smooth. I don't street race it. Its never been to a drag strip. Cobwebs form on the secondaries. I might go WOT once a month just to clean it out.
 
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Davea Lux

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For a road cruiser, since you are already using ATF-4, keep using it. Type F gives a firmer shift but has less fluid life. The only disadvantage to ATF-4 over ATF-3 is that it (ATF-4) is a full synthetic that can break loose accumulated crud. As you have already run with it, that should not be an issue. Wear mater is normal.

Dave
 

furious70

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I agree with Dave, if it's been working don't change. The wisdom I've been told, both pros and shade trees is to not change types and if in doubt mercron/dextron III.
You can build them fresh to use a verity of them
 

CBODY67

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When the car was new, the Chrysler spec atf was the earlier version of atf in the Dexron family. Type F was only a Ford atf fluid back then, with a more agressive friction characteristic on initial engagement/apply, which resulted in a more solid shift when used in a TF or even THM400s.

Seems like, according to the old Chrysler bulletin board items, that ATF+3 is a semi-syn fluid with more friction modifiers additives to work with the LH cars electronic-controlled automatics and such? Otherwise, very similar to the Dexron-family fluids, but lasts longer. With ATF+4 being the most recent Chry spec.

Although you might not drive the car much, when you DO drive it, put some highway miles on it (like about 30 or so) to get all residual/accumulated moisture evaporated out of the atf and engine motor oil. Short jaunts at slow speeds or even a bit of "blowing it out" do not really help keep teh moisture cooked-out. ATF fluid temp can mirror coolant temps, but it takes at least 10 miles of driving to get th engine oil temp up to coolant temp to keep everything clean.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
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I'll try to Cbody67. Thanks everyone.

So with only 750 miles per year max, mostly short drives under 20 miles round trip, I was thinking of changing trans fluid, power steering, brake and rear gear every 15yrs. I change engine oil every 2yrs (1500 miles). Does this sound right or can I extend it to 20yrs/3yrs? I'm guessing even the synthetic oils I use breakdown after that many years in these old tech, worn out cars, but I don't know.
 
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......and should I put a magnet in it? Being a shallow pan, I'm afraid the magnet will be too close to any steel check balls or other steel components which might screw it up.
 

furious70

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Most of today's modern fluids are 'lifetime', but I generally figure they think of lifetime as a decade probably
 

CBODY67

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Get a small, square, flat magnet and put it on the outside of the pan. Mightr even put a piece of tape over it, for good measure.
I'll try to Cbody67. Thanks everyone.

So with only 750 miles per year max, mostly short drives under 20 miles round trip, I was thinking of changing trans fluid, power steering, brake and rear gear every 15yrs. I change engine oil every 2yrs (1500 miles). Does this sound right or can I extend it to 20yrs/3yrs? I'm guessing even the synthetic oils I use breakdown after that many years in these old tech, worn out cars, but I don't know.
With the shorter use cycles, the cold-to-warm-to-cold can allow condensate to build up in the crankcase. Which is why the OEMs term "severe use" lots of trips under 10 miles each. Which gets a quicker oil change interval, as a result. The condensate production will be worse in the cooler months of the year rather than in the hot summer months we're now in. Perhaps you might bias your driving toward the warmer months?

Rather than use mileage for your change interval determiner, you might go by what looking at the lube might be indicating? For example, should you get white grunge at the top of your dipstick in cooler/cold weather would indicate that the engine is not getting fully up to temp and staying there long enough . . . expecially on LA motors. For the atf, when and if the red pungent-smelling fluid turns toward the "brown" color of things or starts to smell differently. Power steering and rear axle lubes seldom get changed by anybody, unless they have to replace components, for some reason, or trailer towing is in their use-mix.

You can probably get a new trnas pan (standard depth) that has a drain plug at the front, like they used to come with. Or Chrysler Mopar Perf used to sell a kit to install one in the existing TF pan. That way, you can easily change the bulk of the fluid easily.

In many respects, no real need to use syn fluids for what you are doing. I suspect that even the less expensive lube of modern times are at least as good as the best OEM-spec fluids of 1970. Other than the additive package in the motor olils having more zddp in them, usually, back then. Although I suspect the modern motor oils and such have much better additive packages with respect to detergency and keeping things clean.

DO be sure to correctly re-cycle your drained-out lubes, too. I used to have a customer who had a then-new Chevy Chevette. He bragged about using Mobil 1 motor oil in it and changing it every 1500 miles. As he also laughed that one of his friends said he wanted all of that old motor oil for his car.

I suspect that lubes deteriorate more with use than age. You know what your budget is and also how to take care of the car to its advantage.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 

69PHOENIX

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G'Day!
If You Put a Small "Rare Earth Magnet" on the Outside of the Pan It Ain't Gonna Fall Off!
I Have Two key Rings in My Pocket Joined Together by a Small REM (1/2" x 1/4")
They have Never Separated in About 5 Years.
I Have to Pull Pretty Darn Hard to Separate Them. Also Cheap as Chips.
Worth Checking.
Regards Tony.M
 

Toolmanmike

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......and should I put a magnet in it? Being a shallow pan, I'm afraid the magnet will be too close to any steel check balls or other steel components which might screw it up.
Just remember, a magnet will only attract metal that wears from steel parts. There's usually black gunk stuck to the magnet. (powdered steel from the gear teeth). The brass thrust washers won't stick and neither will the fiber from the bands and clutch packs.
 

69PHOENIX

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ToolManmike,
You Are of Course Correct!
But the Steel is the Most Damaging of the Loose Stuff.
A Normal Service will Clean Out the"Gunk"
Many Years Ago I was Taking a Two Thousand Mile Round Trip to Visit My Brother in Queensland.
Had the Trans Serviced before I left & the Mechanic told me the Trans was on It's Last Legs as the Pan was Chock full
of Rubbish, Couldn't guarantee how long it would Last.
Made the Trip & was Still Driving 5 Years later when a Fellow tried to Drive Though the Poor Old Thing instead of Around It.
Broke My Heart, it was a Lovely Old 69 4 Dr H/T, 383 Dual A/C, D/Brake, P/S Etc.
Anyway I can Only Say That When They Described the 727 as BULLET PROOF
NO-ONE Could Ever Call Them a LIAR.
I Thrashed the Posterior of the Poor Old Girl.
Turbo Volvos, 350 4 SP Holden Sandman's Etc., All Knew the Wrath of the Mighty DODGE
The Only Thing That May be beating Them Now, Like All of Us, is Age.
Would Still be Driving It Today, If I Had My Way.
Oh Dear, Now I'm Feeling All Upset. I Loved That Old Thing.
Anyway Enjoy Them While You Can, All Things Pass, Sadly.
And I have Noticed You "Yanks" (Pardon the Expression)
Seem to Look Down Your Noses at Anything That's Not Special.
Unless It's Hemi, I of a Kind Etc.,
But the Days going to Come When Even Dirty Old Sedans will be Highly Treasured. (Perhaps as They Should Be)
Remember We all may be Driving Little 10 H.P. Bubble Cars Before Too Long.
The Above is MY Personal Opinion, Not Intended to Offend Anyone.
Regards Tony.M
 
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