I'm thinking about getting a vintage trailer!

FWIW, I used to haul a drag car and trailer around using C-bodies and had pretty good luck. Probably around 5500 lbs loaded.

Trans cooler is a good idea and if your trailer has electric brakes, look at some of the newer brake controls. The amount of adjustability, control, ease of installation etc. is tons better than the ones I struggled with in the 70's.

One thing that does need to be looked at is the rear frame rails. You don't want to bolt up a hitch to a rusty frame rail.

Speaking of hitches, I'll agree that a Class III receiver type hitch will be best and will have the most versatility, even if you don't plan on hauling the weight they are rated for.
 
volaredon said:
for that size trailer equalizer bars will be unnecessary. and trailer brakes are always a good idea, if thats only 2200 lb you cn get by without them.
with that car and a BB you should be able to pull at least 2-1/2x that weight..... with which both equalizer bars and trailer brakes would help immensely.
ive towed much more than 2200 lb without either trailer brakes or equalizer bars with such vehicles as a B250 van, various dodge trucks over the years. from Dakotas to D300s. my current camper is a lil over 4000 lb, I do have trailer brakes but my 12 ram 1500 2wd reg cab handles fine even with "only" a 4.7.....
I remember my dad pulling a much heavier "Pathfinder" camper back in the 70s with a 65 fury wagon, and 6 of us inside that wagon on way to campground
Click to expand...

I have to disagree. We don't know how old the rear springs are the poster's car are and an equalizer type hitch will ensure that there isn't to much tongue weight on the car. In my towing experience, the equalizer hitch set up can reduce trailer sway, even thought that is not what it was designed for and less face it, smaller camper trailers are more prone to swaying from passing trucks etc. than larger trailers. We also don't know the trailer towing experience of the poster.

I have towed a 20' camper with a '73 Gran Torino Squire station wagon, a 28' camper with a 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab with the 5.9 magnum, a heavy 26' enclosed car trailer with the 2002 and with a 39' diesel pusher motorhome and an open car trailer with a C body on it with the 2002 Dodge, with a '94 V6 Dakota and with my 2021 Ram 2500 4x4, which I also towed the 28' camper with.

Just pointing out that I have 45 years of towing experience with trailers of various kinds and think that it is best for the poster to make his towing experience as safe and stress free by spending a little more for the right hitch set up along with electric trailer brakes with a manual control unit and of course, new trailer tires including a spare tire for the trailer.
 
Somewhere between 1965 and 1969 my parents rented a Scotty Scotsman 12' trailer. Pulled it with their '65 Newport 383HP. Had no problem.

But, I agree with FURYGT. A new, newer trailer will serve you better. That Shasta probably will not have holding tanks; there are campgrounds/RV Parks that won't let you in without them. Not to mention the other modern accessories. I do know the craze for vintage trailers is large, and they are cool to see.

I was in an RV Park this past June that didn't want to let me stay because my trailer is a 2004 model. The owner only admits 10 year old and up units. I argued and won. But, that was not the first time I ran into such a regulation. You can run into this same inane thinking with the Shasta.
 
Snotty said:
Somewhere between 1965 and 1969 my parents rented a Scotty Scotsman 12' trailer. Pulled it with their '65 Newport 383HP. Had no problem.

But, I agree with FURYGT. A new, newer trailer will serve you better. That Shasta probably will not have holding tanks; there are campgrounds/RV Parks that won't let you in without them. Not to mention the other modern accessories. I do know the craze for vintage trailers is large, and they are cool to see.

I was in an RV Park this past June that didn't want to let me stay because my trailer is a 2004 model. The owner only admits 10 year old and up units. I argued and won. But, that was not the first time I ran into such a regulation. You can run into this same inane thinking with the Shasta.
Click to expand...
Problem solved! I found out that in 2015 Shasta did a re-issue of their 1961 trailers. Nearly identical, but with modern components including a fully equipped kitchen and bathroom. I'm going to keep my eyes peeled for one of these units.
Shasta-AirFlyte-2.jpg
Shasta-AirFlyte-7.jpg
Shasta-AirFlyte-6.jpg
 
My dad used his 69' Newport to tow a 19' airstream all over the country. From East coast to West coast, Baja to Alaska.

I have the car now with it's tow package still installed. Planning to pick up a small trailer as well, rt 66, mt Rushmore, badlands it should be no problem towing a trailer...
 
Two individual and adjustable friction (not gravity) sway control devices are a necessity. They are cheap, like $30 each. If you don't have them, all trucks and some passenger vehicles will blow the trailer "and" the car all over the road when they are passing you. A receiver hitch is generally used to accommodate the sway bars, but not always.

You will probably need to go custom on the receiver hitch. Best method is to bolt straight through the trunk, frame rails, and hitch as one with 1/2 bolts.

A load equalizer hitch is nice but may not be needed because you can usually balance the trailer load from front to back on a trailer of that length and weight. But, you SHOULD have trailer brakes if you don't use a load equalizer hitch because of the loss of braking at the unloaded front wheels.

I preferred hydraulic surge brakes because they always have enough power to lock up if needed and are less likely to suffer a total failure than electric brakes. Not all electric brakes have enough power, most do, but not all.
Mechanical Hydraulic Surge Brakes almost aways present symptoms before a significant failure and always provide the right amount of braking force. But they are rare on camper trailers. Yes, hydraulic cost more money. Yes, they can be combined with load equalizer gravity sway hitches, which is rare. But they don't play well with friction sway control. If you use electric brakes, be sure to use "fast reset" breakers, do not use blow fuses.

Do remember this. One (1) single failed electrical connection or switch or a controller with electric brakes and you got NO trailer brakes.

Definitely DO avoid the HY-RUN brand "blowup special" trailer tires. I've had best success with Contender brand trailer tires.

You have no trans lockup torque converter so yes, you need an auxiliary trans cooler.

The 2.73 rear is fine up to 60 mph for that weight and sq ft frontal area wind drag. Over 70 mph you will overheat the trans with no trans cooler because of the wind drag. A 2.73 rear and a trans cooler is good for 70 plus with the 440.

Don't buy a trailer that has a rubber roof. ---------- DO NOT BUY A TRAILER THAT HAS A RUBBER ROOF -------. You definitely want a trailer with a METAL roof.

Mirrors, you need mirrors.

I pulled a 17 ft with a 66 383 Newport. And bunches and bunches of hairbrained idea stuff. Never a close call.

I recommend an 18-to-22-footer if you see one you like.

What have I forgotten here?
 
Last edited:
Just Carbs said:
Two individual and adjustable friction (not gravity) sway control devices are a necessity. They are cheap, like $30 each. If you don't have them, all trucks and some passenger vehicles will blow the trailer "and" the car all over the road when they are passing you. A receiver hitch is generally used to accommodate the sway bars, but not always.

You will probably need to go custom on the receiver hitch. Best method is to bolt straight through the trunk, frame rails, and hitch as one with 1/2 bolts.

A load equalizer hitch is nice but may not be needed because you can usually balance the trailer load from front to back on a trailer of that length and weight. But, you SHOULD have trailer brakes if you don't use a load equalizer hitch because of the loss of braking at the unloaded front wheels.

I preferred hydraulic surge brakes because they always have enough power to lock up if needed and are less likely to suffer a total failure than electric brakes. Not all electric brakes have enough power, most do, but not all.
Mechanical Hydraulic Surge Brakes almost aways present symptoms before a significant failure and always provide the right amount of braking force. But they are rare on camper trailers. Yes, hydraulic cost more money. Yes, they can be combined with load equalizer gravity sway hitches, which is rare. But they don't play well with friction sway control. If you use electric brakes, be sure to use "fast reset" breakers, do not use blow fuses.

Do remember this. One (1) single failed electrical connection or switch or a controller with electric brakes and you got NO trailer brakes.

Definitely DO avoid the HY-RUN brand "blowup special" trailer tires. I've had best success with Contender brand trailer tires.

You have no trans lockup torque converter so yes, you need an auxiliary trans cooler.

The 2.73 rear is fine up to 60 mph for that weight and sq ft frontal area wind drag. Over 70 mph you will overheat the trans with no trans cooler because of the wind drag. A 2.73 rear and a trans cooler is good for 70 plus with the 440.

Don't buy a trailer that has a rubber roof. ---------- DO NOT BUY A TRAILER THAT HAS A RUBBER ROOF -------. You definitely want a trailer with a METAL roof.

Mirrors, you need mirrors.

I pulled a 17 ft with a 66 383 Newport. And bunches and bunches of hairbrained idea stuff. Never a close call.

I recommend an 18-to-22-footer if you see one you like.

What have I forgotten here?
Click to expand...
Wow! That’s a lot of great information and advice. I’m no stranger to trailers and towing however I’ve never done it with a regular passenger car. I have a 2022 Jeep rubicon that use to tow my overland trailer and I have a class A motorhome that I use to tow my Jeep or bronco. I have a wireless electric brake set up that works great.

IMG_7624.jpeg


IMG_4511.jpeg
 
surfnturf said:
Wow! That’s a lot of great information and advice. I’m no stranger to trailers and towing however I’ve never done it with a regular passenger car. I have a 2022 Jeep rubicon that use to tow my overland trailer and I have a class A motorhome that I use to tow my Jeep or bronco. I have a wireless electric brake set up that works great.

View attachment 613676

View attachment 613677
Click to expand...

I like flat towing, and your Overland appears to be balanced right nice behind your Rubicon. Looks like big fun.

As you know there's a fine line between having that "don't even know it's back there" feeling and being a bundle of wore-out nerves when you get there.
 
There is absolutely no reason to not change your rear springs regardless of trailer towing.

It is not a hard job , not real expensive AND the ride experience is worth all the efforts. Plus now, it'll help your towing needs.
Great set up BTW. I'm a bit jealous of guys that can make the old car & trailer connection.
 
surfnturf said:
As I am planning out our cross country and route 66 trip next year, the thought of towing a small vintage trailer is intriguing. Our 66 New Yorker is equipped with the 350HP version of the 440 and is completely stock. Do any of you see any issues with towing a small vintage trailer. I'm thinking of something in the range of a 15 foot Shasta AirFlyte. Any special modifications need to be done to the car?

View attachment 613242

View attachment 613243
Click to expand...
yur biggest problem is finding a towing receiver for it i got lucky with i found one for my 72 . i would measure the rear frame dimensions on the car / u may be able to adapt it. ones for a truck & then have it welded to the frame. U may need to put some 2000# /200 psi air shocks & or add some overload pick up coils springs
(i put 2000#coil over load springs on my jean ) on the rear end .thats what i did to my 72 new yorker i have basically have the same motor u have .
Now after i rebuilt mine these r just suggestions
 
bronze turbine said:
I would be concerned about the car brakes on long down grades if the trailer didn't have brakes.
Click to expand...
is the trailer set up for electric breaks? if i is u will have to add a electronic break actuator to yur car then riun a wire back to the trailering plug . u may want a shop do that for u. i uaed a 7 wire plug on mine . i pulled a 22' 5000# trailer with mine . do u have 3.23 gears in yur rear end? the 3.23 is the ratio Chrysler recommended if u was gong to use it for towing
 
I did the same type of trip with my 67 Newport (drum brakes) and a 10ft Jayco hardtop pup up trailer to the west coast. Tranny cooler and a soft touch on the brakes. Did numerous mountain passes per day, long prairie stretches, traffic jams, the killer Coquihalla Highway and never had a problem.
Use the pump the brakes method downhill (allows for minor cooling) and not the stand on them overheating method, a good trans cooler, good clean brake fluid, prep the tranny, and downshift into first or second depending at the hill at the top of the hill and not when you suddenly realize that slowing down is needed and speed is a concern!
Don't worry about your speed as compared to others,...use what is right for your trailer and car. Remember, speeding up is usually simple, slowing down takes planning.
I did the same type of trip years later in a drum brake 68 coronet to the east coast. No trouble there, either. Between these two vehicles I have probably done 12,000 miles hauling as described above, plus some utility trailers.
I still have that custom made super heavy duty custom made trailer hitch for the '67.
Great memories. Jim
 
JimmyG said:
I did the same type of trip with my 67 Newport (drum brakes) and a 10ft Jayco hardtop pup up trailer to the west coast. Tranny cooler and a soft touch on the brakes. Did numerous mountain passes per day, long prairie stretches, traffic jams, the killer Coquihalla Highway and never had a problem.
Use the pump the brakes method downhill (allows for minor cooling) and not the stand on them overheating method, a good trans cooler, good clean brake fluid, prep the tranny, and downshift into first or second depending at the hill at the top of the hill and not when you suddenly realize that slowing down is needed and speed is a concern!
Don't worry about your speed as compared to others,...use what is right for your trailer and car. Remember, speeding up is usually simple, slowing down takes planning.
I did the same type of trip years later in a drum brake 68 coronet to the east coast. No trouble there, either. Between these two vehicles I have probably done 12,000 miles hauling as described above, plus some utility trailers.
I still have that custom made super heavy duty custom made trailer hitch for the '67.
Great memories. Jim
Click to expand...
yes wel folks was using drum brake cars for yrs to pull trailers . my dad had a Plymouth savoy with a slant 6 with 3on the tree we pulled a camper all over the USA with no problems ether folks r spoiled with disk brakes noow or 4 wheel disk brakes they dont now how well drum brakes really worked

old camper.jpg


positive 2.jpg
 
marty koirtyohann said:
yur biggest problem is finding a towing receiver for it i got lucky with i found one for my 72 . i would measure the rear frame dimensions on the car / u may be able to adapt it. ones for a truck & then have it welded to the frame. U may need to put some 2000# /200 psi air shocks & or add some overload pick up coils springs
(i put 2000#coil over load springs on my jean ) on the rear end .thats what i did to my 72 new yorker i have basically have the same motor u have .
Now after i rebuilt mine these r just suggestions
Click to expand...
U-Haul will build one for you. They did for my '84 Fifth and my '79 Cordoba.
 
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