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I´ll go with it.
I traded the aluminum Mopar Performance covers in to get these original covers. The black paint will be fine after repainting because the engine will not be pulled out just to paint it the proper color.
One update here:
Looks like the body seam has to be painted black as it got white onto it.
Dad painted only a layer for sanding and that´s way the paint is too yellowish.
The past seven days have gone by while being at the garage. Bodywork revealed a hole in the left front fender.
The steel valve covers, new plugs and wires are installed:
I´ll drive the next season with the "old" PS pump as it´s in a better condition than the one I did buy last summer. The "new" pump has at least a crooked pulley if not the shaft too.
I know you , you love your car but do you also sleep with her (2nd pic , blanket on the floor...)?
Oookay, good work anyway,happy to see that your dad working with you!
Always somebody finds something unnecessary...
It´s for keeping the place a bit cleaner. I need a bit warmer habitat to sleep.
One garage friend welded the hole a few days ago and I&dad started to replace the front shocks, but more on that once I get some better photos.
I think that this is an anti-theft device installed by one of the previous owners.
There's an odd terminal and two just as wierd wires with a connector of the same type; flat with connections for two wires. After attaching the wires and turning the key to "ON", this sound was heard.
Sounds like the fasten seat belt buzzer to me. Too dark to see.
My green '72 (Shirley P.) came with an aftermarket security system that automatically locked the doors when you shut them and even with engine running. Previous owner had to hide a set of keys on the undercarriage. Locked out all the time. That system got removed immediately in the shop by a techno geek that the shop brought into just for that pain in the A$$ problem.
Nice car! What is the next one you're getting?
I recorded two different sounds and the other is the buzzer.
@DocMcNeedy, I've gotten used to open a side window whenever keys are in and I'm out.
Highly likely another Fuselage Imperial.
I got a box of parts Friday and today installed the new...
PS pump pressure hose!
Dad did some body work:
The horns are non-operable now because current won´t get any farther than to the coil spring, which is inside the metallic tube that is attached to the backside of the steering wheel. Research continues...
Most times, I believe it's the ground. I think power goes to the horns, and ground goes to the steering wheel/column. The circuit is completed when you hit the horn push grounding the circuit, not powering it up. But I've been known to be wrong.
Yesterday I did some body work and took the right rear door panel out to see what's wrong with the locking mechanism. The metallic rod connecting the lock button had come out of the lock release lever and the clip holding the rod was also loose.
Both front shocks are now replaced and especially the first one was hard. At fist we lifted the right front corner up, took the rubber bumper and strut rod off of the lower control arm and the badly worn (not existing anymore at that time actually) rubber bumper off of the upper CA. Then we tried to push and pull the absorber to its shortest lenght, but it returned back the the unloaded lenght. A steel rod with curved ends was a nice gadget to hold the absorber as compressed, while I tied some electric wire around it. Even at then it wasn't coming out, so the only way to get it was to loosen the upper ball joint.
After getting all parts installed back with the Monroe OE Spectrum, the metallic plate did get in contact while testing the new shock by bushing the car down.
Today I replaced the driver's side front shock absorber witout tying it with anything. A garage friend was helping with a crowbar and a sledgehammer...
Rough, but nobody or nothing got hurt.
In a nutshell: just the rubber bumper out, spindle down, old absorber out, new in and all back together. I turned the right lower rubber bumper mounting plate backwards to make clearance between it and the sub frame. There's a new upper rubber bumper on the right side.
What I know about the front shocks, Fusie Imps have absorbers that are shorter than those of other C-bodies.
Another notification is that the new mounting bushings will work though they are totally different in shape.
The steering wheel is out, so I'll repair the rim.
Eww, what a long post without the promised pics.
Looks like we'll install a Carter tomorrow. This is rebuilt by @Dana and is coded as 4640, which identifies the carb as a 750 cfm AVS that was used on 440 RBs in cars equipped with A/C and automatic transmission during 1969.
Otherwise I'd have ordered a Thermoquad for the awesome intake sound at wot, but the intake now on Imp's engine is of the square bore type. An AFB was out of consideration because I had replaced the air cleaner last winter and Holleys and newer Carters have the bigger contact area thus I didn't want to buy another base plate.
Carter AVS- Nice carb. I've had good luck with these. The air valve secondary (AVS) works similar to the secondaries on the ThermoQuad. Thus- you will get some of the WOT sound you desire.
Yesterday I had forgot that Carters need some different components than Edelbrocks. I'll order the kickdown linkage end and a fuel inlet.
This kind of a mtallic rod was handy at taking the other shock absorber out.
This is the left absorber, which is not dented like the one above.
Electric current doesn't flow from the coil spring to these three tabs, so some moddifications are needed.
Fuselage side window question I got the driver's side mirror retightened.