3175375
Senior Member
Let me dig for it... I bought a kit and installed it myself. It was easy.
Instrument cluster rehab....
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3175375
Senior Member
http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/interior-electrical/vintage-ford-mustang-clocks-repair-fix
I found the article above. I would recommend you call the parts house referenced in the article and ask for the manufacturer’s information and call them.
@cbarge - when I tested the light bezel with the LEDs the other day, I did not fully install the bezel back into the dash... just plugged in the harness and rested the bezel across the steering column on a towel. Could this have meant it wasn’t grounded hence the lights not working?
UPDATE: I couldn’t wait until morning so I used a little alligator clip jumper cable to ground the bezel to the frame and viola... I got lights! Had to flip the bulb on the left blinker indicator to get the polarity correct. Got lucky on the right side. The high beam indicator stays lit (which might explain why there was no bulb in there when I took it apart). Will need to trouble shoot some of the other ones that aren’t lighting up, but a moderate success to say the least.
UPDATE: I couldn’t wait until morning so I used a little alligator clip jumper cable to ground the bezel to the frame and viola... I got lights! Had to flip the bulb on the left blinker indicator to get the polarity correct. Got lucky on the right side. The high beam indicator stays lit (which might explain why there was no bulb in there when I took it apart). Will need to trouble shoot some of the other ones that aren’t lighting up, but a moderate success to say the least.
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Poor connection on that circuit.
Clean your ground wire for the headlight harness at rad core suport ahead of the battery tray and test the foot switch,check its connections replace it if necessary (its cheap to buy)
Digging deeper into the circuit issue, it appears at some point in this car’s life, there was some electrical ‘work’ done to convert the high beam foot switch to also operate the rotating headlight doors. I thought that is how they all came, but there is a pigtail wire with an ATC 20A in-line fuse on the headlight switch harness... while my goal of this latest project is to rehab the instrument panel, I think I might just let this sleeping dog lie. The current arrangement does seem to work, but is likely the cause of the high beam indicator staying lit (and probably explains why there wasn’t a bulb in there before).
I found a complete instrument panel the other day with reportedly all gauges working. Should be receiving it this week. If indeed it is all in order, my hope is to just swap it out with my current one (sans clock) with the upgraded bulkhead ammeter bypass. Still an internal debate about the clock...
I found a complete instrument panel the other day with reportedly all gauges working. Should be receiving it this week. If indeed it is all in order, my hope is to just swap it out with my current one (sans clock) with the upgraded bulkhead ammeter bypass. Still an internal debate about the clock...
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RagTop66
Active Member
The instrument panel came into today. It appears to be in great shape. Pulled the old IP out of the dash and whoa, it is a wreck! The back of the ammeter was fully rusted out and the gauge itself had a melt down on the inside. It clearly suffered the same fate as so many others. Picked up the parts for the bulkhead by pass today just like @cbarge suggests.
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new LED lights installed for the IP as well.
also got the repop voltage limiter for the back of the dash for the fuel gauge.
Turns out my speedo stopped working because the plastic clip that holds it to the speedo broke and it came disconnected. New speedo cable should be here Tuesday.
also got the repop voltage limiter for the back of the dash for the fuel gauge.
Turns out my speedo stopped working because the plastic clip that holds it to the speedo broke and it came disconnected. New speedo cable should be here Tuesday.
Anyone out there use one of the ‘68 repop solid state voltage limiters.... any pics to share regarding how you wired it?
This sits on the back of the instrument panel and feeds into the fuel gauge. I got my from vans auto but the terminals appear to be reversed from the original.
This sits on the back of the instrument panel and feeds into the fuel gauge. I got my from vans auto but the terminals appear to be reversed from the original.
Not a big deal since you can only plug it in one way. Onw pkug is male the other female.
Being electronic no need for the condensor for noise supression.
Hope this helps
Being electronic no need for the condensor for noise supression.
Hope this helps
New speedo cable came in today. Tested with my drill onto the new instrument panel. Clocked 70 MPH at my kitchen table!
@cbarge got me squared away on the fail safes of an ammeter melt down (thank you again btw).
led lights in all the sockets.
And the new repop solid state limiter on the back of the cluster.
I will need to do some wire repairs on the harness where the ammeter melted down (I see some bare copper).
hoping this goes back together smoothly this weekend.
@cbarge got me squared away on the fail safes of an ammeter melt down (thank you again btw).
led lights in all the sockets.
And the new repop solid state limiter on the back of the cluster.
I will need to do some wire repairs on the harness where the ammeter melted down (I see some bare copper).
hoping this goes back together smoothly this weekend.
Anyone out there know the nut I need to fit the odometer reset cable poking through the bottom of the dash on my ‘68 300? It apparently fell off years ago, but I never knew because the speedometer/odometer never worked.
I cannot find a proper fit at the hardware store.
Thx.
I cannot find a proper fit at the hardware store.
Thx.
Reassembly day! Wish me luck.
speedo cable first: Done!
Working on the instrument panel next. As suggested, pulled out the front seat.
Can’t figure out how to rotate the pics... sorry! More to follow soon.
speedo cable first: Done!
Working on the instrument panel next. As suggested, pulled out the front seat.
Can’t figure out how to rotate the pics... sorry! More to follow soon.
Success!
Might be hard to see, but in the second pic you can see the Blue glow of the new bulbs. Thought at first it was a total failure... but theN realized the dimmer was all the way down.
Bulkhead and under hood bypasses next.
Might be hard to see, but in the second pic you can see the Blue glow of the new bulbs. Thought at first it was a total failure... but theN realized the dimmer was all the way down.
Bulkhead and under hood bypasses next.
Doing the last bits of the ammeter and under hood bypass.... I found the NOS fusible links on eBay for about $2 plus shipping. I like how they have the rubber ‘FUSIBLE LINK’ embossed on the tag. Looks cooler than what I wa finding at the local auto parts store and a little closer to the original.
got em installed and fired her up. Good times.
got em installed and fired her up. Good times.
3175375
Senior Member
what was that in Stan? The NYB or 68?
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