ISO of a capable mechanic/shop who knows 1967 MoPars nr Westchester County NY

[QUOTE Hello Dear C-Friends,

I am in search of an experienced mechanic or a good shop in the New York area who has a passion and magic touch when it come to getting MoPars to run beautifully. Yes, it must be a MoPar enthusiast, and its gotta be someone who will take it in their hands and work through any issues respectfully, skillfully, and diligently, giving her the time and space necessary to do things right. My local gas station guy is great for a front end alignment.. but for diagnosing and dialing in a 1967 Plymouth Fury 383 big block four bbl car, in a safe indoor space, I need someone who is a natural. I have worked very hard to get my beautiful 14k mile Fury running right. I have followed all diagnostics protocol.
I have used proper parts and fluids. I have rebuilt, and have had rebuilt TWO Carter 4299s AFB carburetors(one being the factory original), and still can not get her to run right. Both carbs were cleaned and rebuilt correctly, checked and triple checked.
I have set up my distributor properly. It is clean with perfect NOS parts. Gapped the points, set timing, dwell, on and on and on...

It has come time for me to hand over the car to a capable person who has much more experience than me(I have had no auto repair experience whatsoever before I got this car 2 years ago). This car means so much to me, and is in incredible condition. I feel I am going to make her worse if I keep messing with it.

Again, it's very important that it's someone who also knows how to work well with these AFBs on Chrysler motors.

My plan here is to hand over the car, and say please don't give it back to me until it is running like a top.
This is doable.
I respectfully ask all of you here to please think of who would be a good person or shop to take care of my GG. It may be one of you for all I know. It may be a good speed shop/builder. I prefer it stays in New York, or near Westchester county.. but could be taken/picked up within the tri-state area. Connecticut, New Jersey, Long Island etc.
I live in Brooklyn, but keep the car in a detached 2 car garage that I rent from a family home in North White Plains NY, Westchester County.

Much obliged to all for your consideration. I appreciate all replies here, and feel free to call me directly as well at 212-365-0652

Alex[/QUOTE]

What seems to the be the issue??
Compression test? Leakdown test? sticky valve?? Stumbling??
Lean condition? rich?
what is your vacuum reading at idle??

Alex,You have a beautiful VIP and I respect your goal to keep her as original as heavenly possible.
I had the same goal with my 68 Newport but as time went by I wanted it to run better than it looked.
Did the same on my buddy's 66 300 with a 383 as well.
Reality of it all is today's crappy gas is not the same as it was 5 years ago--forget 25-40 years ago.
Reduced octane levels,increased levels of Ethanol affect all of us classic car lovers.
You may have to play with the jets in the carb to make it happy. However,finding a jetting kit for a 50-plus year old carb is very limited. you may have to play with the accelerator pump adjustment where she may need the extra jolt of fuel.
Running dual exhaust also requires a fattening up of the mixture.
Big blocks generate tons of heat and WILL boil the fuel before the engine can drink it. Make sure there is some insulation under the intake and use a heat sheathing on the fuel line feed going to the carb.
If you are adamant in using the factory carb,at least put a 1" spacer under it to keep the fuel cool.
I would get rid of the points and to maintain the "original" look install the Pertronix ignition conversion.Do a recurve in the distributor. Today,you need more initial timing.383 4bbl are happy at 10/11 degrees initial with 34/36 total all in at 2800/3000 RPM.Impossible to do running with points ..Been there/done that. Run a hotter coil but paint it black to look stock.
With a hotter spark,run the gap in the plugs 38 thou.Toss the Chumpian plugs for NGK's

Until I know what is not right, I am only assuming at this point.
I wish I was closer to help out.
BTW,the 66 300 we drove from Kingston,Canada to Carlisle and back in 2016 with nary a hiccup with the set up I built.
 
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I'm surprised @75LandYacht hasn't chimed in. He's in the NYC area.
Hey John you know anyone who can give this fellow a hand?
Thx for thinking about me Kenny, he and I spoke last yr when hefirst joined..my guy own a service station and loved working on old rides like our, but doesn’t have INSIDE storage to keep such a beautiful car while working on it..
 
Hey CBARGE, and all the generous members here who have been offering up suggestions,

Thank you for the good words and advice. I appreciate all tips and opinions, I really do.. but now I'm more confused and at my wits end than ever. I refuse to seize this 14k 383 HP motor because I simply don't know what to look for, for example; the carb dumping fuel into the intake to the point my oil is thinner and smells like fuel.. and then I keep running her, driving her up to speed without proper lubrication. This isn't a car that someone with ZERO automotive experience(me) should have tried to mess with. I have made a lot of effort thus far, got a lot done, and learned a lot. However, I still have not even wrapped my head around what timing is, what it does, never mind how to set any of it. Texting instructions have not translated to me working on the car.. because I have nothing to compare it too in real life time and space. In terms of attempting to run her right, I've done everything I "should" have done, by myself. It's time to hand it over to a great MoPar mechanic, builder, shop that is proficient and prolific with these cars. There are just too many variables. Fellow member FURYGT aka Bill has recently hooked me up with a shop about 90 miles north of my Fury, and I'll be getting an appointment set during the next month. Spoke with the owner today who is a serious classic MoPar, mechanic, builder, and racing enthusiast, and he's going to take GG and get her right.. whatever that takes. I trust he will know. He won't even take the car until he can keep her inside.. and once in the shop, he'll keep her for a week to diagnose and figure it out.. dial her in. I'll flatbed her there when a slot opens up. I wish there was someone/fellow member capable & close by to help out and guide me through some of the issues. I've had her running well, then she gets all out of whack when I attempt to make other necessary adjustments. I do understand that a carbureted stock engine can run very well, even with new gas.. and I plan on jetting up one or two sizes. But first I'll let this shop get her baseline tuned and tight stock. From there who knows what she'll really need!
 
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Your goal should be getting at least 18-20 inches of vacuum at idle of 800 RPM.
An engine is basically an air pump.
All the best and feel free to ask any questions.
You are very smart to know your limitations and to ask for help.
Best wishes and good luck for you and GG
 
Your goal should be getting at least 18-20 inches of vacuum at idle of 800 RPM.
An engine is basically an air pump.
All the best and feel free to ask any questions.
You are very smart to know your limitations and to ask for help.
Best wishes and good luck for you and GG
I know I've had her at 21 inches of vacuum at idle, at 750 rpms.. then she would run for a while and lose all vacuum.. but not always.. run hot, then not.. nothing made sense to me or anyone else.. because they are not there.. hearing or seeing it's behavior. Yes, one big air pump......... that depends on several other systems working properly and together in perfect harmony to perform optimally. Thanks for the encouragement.
 
Looks stock,but not original.
My point is it runs very strong,and is reliable without looking out of place.

Ditched the original carb for a modern day 750 Eddy atop 383 Performer intake.I have a 1 inch spacer underneath,blocked the heat crossover passages and use an electric choke.Heat sheathing on fuel line and insulation between intake and turkey pan.
100 degrees difference between the carb base and rest of engine at operating temp and never boils the fuel.
Correct dual snorkel air cleaner hides most of it.
Electronic ignition, integrated and wrapped into factory wire harness.
Recurved distibutor with Mopar tan cap and date coded plug wires.
Accel Super Stock coil painted black to look stock.
Modern day battery with a fake topper that looks like original battery.
Reproduction battery cables.
Powermaster "roundback" alternator but has 75 amp guts.
Car came with 22 inch rad,but converted to 26 inch with correct shroud and lower air dams.
NOS voltage regulator cover hides modern electronic guts.
Just saying that GG can run very well without any major sacrifice of her originality. Anything that gets removed on can be shelved for the sake of originality.
boab october 2017 005.JPG
boab october 2017 004.JPG
 
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Looks stock,but not original.
My point is it runs very strong,and is reliable without looking out of place.

Ditched the original carb for a modern day 750 Eddy atop 383 Performer intake.I have a 1 inch spacer underneath,blocked the heat crossover passages and use an electric choke.Heat sheathing on fuel line and insulation between intake and turkey pan.
100 degrees difference between the carb base and rest of engine at operating temp and never boils the fuel.
Correct dual snorkel air cleaner hides most of it.
Electronic ignition, integrated and wrapped into factory wire harness.
Recurved distibutor with Mopar tan cap and date coded plug wires.
Accel Super Stock coil painted black to look stock.
Modern day battery with a fake topper that looks like original battery.
Reproduction battery cables.
Powermaster "roundback" alternator but has 75 amp guts.
Car came with 22 inch rad,but converted to 26 inch with correct shroud and lower air dams.
NOS voltage regulator cover hides modern electronic guts.
Just saying that GG can run very well without any major sacrifice of her originality. Anything that gets removed on can be shelved for the sake of originality.
View attachment 178789 View attachment 178790
Looks great! Nice work getting her to run strong and reliably. Thanks for sharing this.. it may be something I do eventually depending on how well we get my stock set up tuned.. and if that goes well, how successful I am maintaining it.
 
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Man that car is pristine! Love it! I hope you get it running righ...sometimes, carbs just dont want to run like youd like them to.
 
Looks stock,but not original.
My point is it runs very strong,and is reliable without looking out of place.

Ditched the original carb for a modern day 750 Eddy atop 383 Performer intake.I have a 1 inch spacer underneath,blocked the heat crossover passages and use an electric choke.Heat sheathing on fuel line and insulation between intake and turkey pan.
100 degrees difference between the carb base and rest of engine at operating temp and never boils the fuel.
Correct dual snorkel air cleaner hides most of it.
Electronic ignition, integrated and wrapped into factory wire harness.
Recurved distibutor with Mopar tan cap and date coded plug wires.
Accel Super Stock coil painted black to look stock.
Modern day battery with a fake topper that looks like original battery.
Reproduction battery cables.
Powermaster "roundback" alternator but has 75 amp guts.
Car came with 22 inch rad,but converted to 26 inch with correct shroud and lower air dams.
NOS voltage regulator cover hides modern electronic guts.
Just saying that GG can run very well without any major sacrifice of her originality. Anything that gets removed on can be shelved for the sake of originality.
View attachment 178789 View attachment 178790
Being a 383 Commando 4bbl like mine, I would love to see your car and go for ride some time, contrast and compare, maybe at Carlisle.
 
Being a 383 Commando 4bbl like mine, I would love to see your car and go for ride some time, contrast and compare, maybe at Carlisle.
I will be at Carlisle. Most certainly you are welcome to to go for a ride!!
See you there!!
The BoaB started life with a 2bbl carb and single exhaust.
I collected and used the correct parts to make it look like a "Commando" engine..
What you don't see is the .040 overbore,flat top pistons,planed deck,shaved heads,Comp Cam 268H 454 lift cam,with beehive matched springs.ARP studs and bolts,Cloyes timing chain. All reciprocating parts had been balanced. Schumacher Poly lock Magnum mounts.
Kept the compression 9.2/9.5 for today's gas and many miles of happy motoring.
 
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It could be a few things, but you need an experienced diagnostician. He doesn't have to be a Mopar specialist if that helps, he just needs to be experienced in the older cars. I'd recommend you get with FuryGT. I've seen his car and his sources seem solid.
 
It could be a few things, but you need an experienced diagnostician. He doesn't have to be a Mopar specialist if that helps, he just needs to be experienced in the older cars. I'd recommend you get with FuryGT. I've seen his car and his sources seem solid.
Yes Moper, thank you. FuryGT has kindly reached out and connected me with a good shop he knows, so GG will be going in soon for full diagnostics, tuning, problem solving.. whatever she needs.
And the owner, who'll be taking her in himself, is a builder who dedicates half his shop to classic cars.. and is also a die hard Mopar man. I'm really looking forward to the next month and what it will bring!
 
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I came across your post. I can not express enough and with deepest sincerity how much I trust Fury GT, AKA Bill. Our paths crossed at the first Chrysler Nationals @ Carlisle as I was vending NOS parts from a defunct dealers inventory. Since then the circle of friends have grown. I am in Yorktown Heights NY. one day I would be honored to see your car in person.
 
I came across your post. I can not express enough and with deepest sincerity how much I trust Fury GT, AKA Bill. Our paths crossed at the first Chrysler Nationals @ Carlisle as I was vending NOS parts from a defunct dealers inventory. Since then the circle of friends have grown. I am in Yorktown Heights NY. one day I would be honored to see your car in person.
Hey! a67furyman, Thanks for the good words. Bill spoke highly of you too.. he told me that you were a 1967 Plymouth Fury expert, and maybe we should talk.
Funny, you are closer to my car than I am, by about 15 miles.. you're about a 21 minute drive away.
 
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