Jackstands Dent Front Subframe

1970FuryConv

Old Man with a Hat
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I have some of the saddle type jackstands, which have a circular indent in the center and small upward extensions at each end of the saddle. I used them one time under the front subframe behind the front wheels and they left little dents in my pristine subframe. I was surprised, thinking the subframe was a safe place to use the jackstands. Since then, I have either used a piece of 2x4 between the frame and the jackstand saddle or I have jacked the car and put rims under the front tires. I don't really like either method. If I want the jackstands far enough to the rear, where I've got room to work, should I be putting the stands under the pinch welds? I could also grind off the extensions at each end of the saddle, but it seems like the metal would still dent. I could also buy 2 metal plates and screw them to the bottom of the subframe. For a low budget person without money to install dealer style lift in my garage, your suggestions/experience are appreciated.
 
I have no suggestions but have had similar experiences when I was younger. I have a pair of old stands an uncle gave me that I use. They are tall and have a wide head to span the frame . My Craftsman stands have a much smaller head that I dont like to use in that area .
 
In all the years I have been working on cars, in every brand, (Chrysler, Ford, G.M.), they all have a weak spot under the frame, you just found the one for your car. Also, never put a jack stand under the pinch welds, you will end up buying a lot of trouble when the body panels shift.
 
FSM for my Monaco says to place jack stands under the control arms up front and the axle out back. Does not recommend lifting anywhere else. The jack stand resting surface is too small an area to lift all that weight by any body parts.
 
Not sure if this is recommended and have never tried it as I have a very old set of stands from the 60's that span the stub channel nicely but, I remember an old buddy of mine had the same stands being described here and he used to put them under the mounting tab (straddling the bolt head) on the stub frame... never had an issue that I know of.
 
Then the FSM says use a lift with the proper pad adaptors to lift at the rear of front subframe and rear frame at front leaf spring perch.
 
But thats impractical . How bout when I replace the rear springs? Or have no lift? It has been my experience that the service manual is frequently wrong or it goes about things NOT for the average guy .
Ive been using that point on the frame to raise the front end for 35 years and usually do something similar to what Stan does except with 2 x material or with the stand pad itself ....
 
The FSM is not the bible. It is a guide to service mechanics who have access to a fully equipped shop and all the special tools, (as referenced throughout the manual). It's great to have one to access the basic info needed to hack your way through the job.
 
Think I'll keep using the 2x4s or maybe do like Stan and go with 1x6s

I have learned to shy away from wood and onto rubber. I’ve once had a piece of 2x4 crack while supporting the car and jack stands nearly punch a clean hole through my subframe.

I know a lot of guys use wood and it may of just been down to user error but I play safer now rather than sorry.
 
I use 6" long pcs of 3" C channel to distribute weight. Reduces the point load by a factor of 10 at least.
 
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