Just can't get a break lol

[FuryDan66]

So the other day driving I noticed some stumbling more so at lower speeds but would clear when increasing of speed. Now I've had this radiator burping issues for awhile where when I would park the car it would dump some antifreeze at times. My father N law said could be a blown head gasket ( radiator isn't over filled and I'm not seeing signs of leaking other than what I've said).
So driving home I could smell a little oil burning and I went to park it would see the area around the dip stick/power steering pump hoses had oil all over them etc... Cleaned it all off and went back for another spin and when parked the same thing. So what I found was oil being blown up and out through the dipstick=( So if I remember correctly that usually means a stuck piston/oil ring and which would explain possibly the burping of antifreeze at times right? The guy I bought the car from said it had been doing it forever. What I feel about the motor is it hasn't been even cracked open and still is all factory with around 125K miles.
So with that being said I was thinking of trying to out some MM(Marvel mystery oil) inside running it then changing it hoping to unfreeze the ring/rings?? But with that said if there's more issues I don't want to destroy the bottom end buy doing so just because I want to drive her.
Second part of the question, If she needs rebuilt(which I'll have to pay someone) I would prefer to keep the bottom end and have it redone if possible and go with a set of 440 heads, new intake and bigger cam. The reason I would prefer the cast iron heads or some built up ones is more "Old school" IMO. What kind of price range can I expect for the entire motor dip, new freeze plugs, honed, rings and then heads and intake with labor. Worse case is if the bottom end is terrible would just we worth putting in a new motor I guess.
Happy New Year
-Dan

 

[detmatt]

Jegs has this 426 Hemi complete for $2900.00
Billet Specialties BLK14820: BB-Chrysler/HEMI Tru Trac Serpentine Belt System with Manual Steering, with A/C 1966-Up 426ci Street HEMI | JEGS

What has this got to do with anything?

 

[traintech55]

The price of a rebuild will depend on the condition of your engine now. Whatever is bad will need to be replaced and that will depend on what is worn. When I had the engine in my 1966 300 rebuilt, it got bored, new pistons, new bearings, cam, lifters, oil pump, and assembled for $2,450 with a warranty. You should expect around the same, but check into the reputation of the machine shop before you have them do the work.

 

[detmatt]

I suggest a leakdown test as your next move.

 

[FuryDan66]

Sorry I thought it was the link to the motor not the belt lol

What has this got to do with anything?

 

[FuryDan66]

Do you need to check all cylinder's or just pull all the plugs, remove the coil wire from the coil and giver her two/three cranks and check pressure? Above 100 is good correct?
Dan

 

[detmatt]

How to do Cylinder Leak Down Testing- Car Craft Magazine

 

[PontiacJim]

Make sure your valve cover breather is not plugged up. On some Pontiac engines, enough pressure can be built up in the crankcase to push oil out the dipstick tube, or worse, out of engine seals. Had a 400CI do the dipstick thing. The valve cover has a breather on one side and screw-on oil fill cap on the other. Simply added another screw-on breather to replace the oil fill cap and problem solved. The engine was not worn and had been rebuilt prior to me buying it, so it was not worn rings and a blow-by issue, just a lot of crankcase pressure when I used to wind the engine RPM up tight.

If your engine has a PCV valve, make sure it is working correctly.

 

[PontiacJim]

Do you need to check all cylinder's or just pull all the plugs, remove the coil wire from the coil and giver her two/three cranks and check pressure? Above 100 is good correct?
Dan

Yep, pull all the plugs so the engine will spin over faster. Pull the coil wire. I also open the carb wide open so air will flow into each cylinder. Insert your compression gauge into each cylinder. You can do a plug at a time, but you may not get as accurate a reading. The actual reading is not as important as the difference in cylinder pressure from one cylinder to the next - so write down each cylinder pressure and then post them.

 

[FuryDan66]

Thanks for the info, I'll be doing this over the next couple of days.
Dan

 

[FuryDan66]

Make sure your valve cover breather is not plugged up. On some Pontiac engines, enough pressure can be built up in the crankcase to push oil out the dipstick tube, or worse, out of engine seals. Had a 400CI do the dipstick thing. The valve cover has a breather on one side and screw-on oil fill cap on the other. Simply added another screw-on breather to replace the oil fill cap and problem solved. The engine was not worn and had been rebuilt prior to me buying it, so it was not worn rings and a blow-by issue, just a lot of crankcase pressure when I used to wind the engine RPM up tight.

If your engine has a PCV valve, make sure it is working correctly.

I was thinking about that last night. Simple check =)
Dan