Looking for a 440

jstaples2

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Hi all -
I've been passively looking for a 440 to build for my 68 Fury. I think I found one and wanted to get input from the collective here...

It's a 1965 (first year?) with the original 10:1 pistons/rods and a forged crank. Supposedly there's no ring wear, so hopefully just a hone and cleanup is needed. Anything I should specifically be looking out for? Were there any issues with these early blocks I wouldn't know about? Any fitment considerations to dropping a 65 block into a 68 car?

I'm looking to replace the tired 383 that's in my Fury now. This would strictly be a warmed-over street application. I'm thinking the forged crank should be fine... But open to input.

Thanks everyone!
 
Block could be built in '65. Would be in a '66 car. It will swap into your Fury without issue. The only difference may be accessory brackets.
 
Forged crank is better than cast crank and you can build a later (late 70's) low compression 440 to handle quite a bit of power. That block will be fine for mild build. Just make sure the crank is gone over by a good shop before you throw other parts at it.
 
I may be recalling incorrectly but some 65 blocks didn't have the bosses cast in for 66 and up motor mounts... not sure. Best to double check
 
Here's the pics I got from the guy. Has a 65 date on it and the casting looks correct according to the 440source charts.
Casting.jpg
 
it will work fine , it a standard 440 block , need to lower the c/r although .that 10? is based on closed chamber heads , with some thick head gaskets and later big cc chambered heads . should drop the c/r enough . great block for a driver .
 
The first 440s were cast in 65 for the 66 model year. There is an engine ID pad just behind the water pump housing, on the left side of the block with the engine size stamped on it. (you will probably have to sand off the paint.)
idpad.jpg
There is a letter in front of the "440". Yours should be a "B". B440=1966. C440 is 67, D440 is 68, E 440 is 69, F440 is 70, g440 is 71 and H440 is 72. After that there were a lot of "T440s" and other stuff, but the steel crank 440s went from 66 to 72. Some OTHER facts that haven't been covered here: Although the 66 and 67 motors had higher compression, 66 and MOST 67 440's had smaller exhaust valves which affected performance. It was a 1.60 exhaust. ON a few very rare 67 HP 440s, they put the 1.74 exhaust valves. In 68 with the 906 head, the engine got the 1.74 exhaust valve but a slightly lower compression (somewhere in the 9.5-1 range). The 906 head was also used on many 383s. (possibly on your 68 383) so you MAY want to pull and redo them to put on the 66 440 for the bigger valves and give up the slight compression difference. If you want to spend a lot of money, the 66-67 heads can be machined out for the 1.74 exhaust valve..

Some different mounting systems were mentioned earlier as concerns. That would only affect you in a 65 and down. The 66-72 C body used the exact same mounts and hardware between a 383 and a 440 so it should be a direct swap.
 
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The factory cast intake manifold for '66 was relatively restrictive so I would go with a later one or an aftermarket aluminum.
I've had bigger exhaust valves and seats put in the set of small valve 915s that are currently on my Imp and it wasn't very costly.
 
In 68 with the 906 head, the engine got the 1.74 exhaust valve but a slightly lower compression (somewhere in the 9.5-1 range). The 906 head was also used on many 383s. (possibly on your 68 383) so you MAY want to pull and redo them to put on the 66 440 for the bigger valves and give up the slight compression difference.

The '68 & '69 440s had taller pistons and the compression ratio was 10.1 to 1; the '70 added some deck clearance/shorter pistons that dropped the compression ratio to 9.7 to 1. All the B & RB engines in '68 would have had the 906 castings.
 
Agreed, you remind me that I had a pair of those.
 
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