Hi all. Try as I have, I just can't seem to find any name brand slotted/drilled front rotors and high performance matching front pads to fit my land yacht. I don't want the expense of $600 dollar calipers, etc. just a modest improvement in stopping. Anyone know of any name-brand quality parts?
Looking for upgraded brake rotors and pads for a 71 Sport Fury.
- Thread starter Car Doc
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commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Why the obsession with slotted/drilled rotors? Don't need them. Even on an LT1 Vette.
Husky
Member
Centric make the standard factory style replacements and can be got through Rock Auto, etc. I bought a set of drilled and slotted rotors for my 70 off eBay. Can't remember the name, but I believe they take the Centric unit, then drill, slot and powder coat then and box them up. Quality items I have had many miles of driving with.
As for brake pads, the old Carbon Metallic pads that AutoZone used to have worked fine on another car I have. They are still around, with a website. Their claim was shorter stops with just a front brake pad change (to their pads).
On the edge of the brake pads, there are some numbers/letters. This code identifies the pad material as to coefficient of friction between the pad and rotor. There are two letters, the first for "cold stops", the second is for "hot stops". Letters go from "C" to "F", with "F" being highest. Aim for "FF" markings. Factory pads are bonded rather than riveted. The other code items define the maker of the friction, the "batch", and the coefficients I mentioned.
The purpose of the slots and holes is to allow the gasses produced by the brake pad, as it works, to better escape rather than stay there. It's supposed to be "the gas layer" that causes brake fade, so getting rid of the gasses is supposed to help. BUT unless you're trying to hold down the speed of the car (and trailer) down a long descent, OR are into heavy road racing, these things can be more "show" than go, in reality.
Everybody's headed toward ceramic pads. Ceramic pads used to be what the LeMans people used, due to its higher heat tolerance. On the road, the push is because of legislation to get all of the copper out of brake friction materials, so that means "ceramic". Ceramics are more abrasive to the rotor surface than other types of friction.
Personally, I still like the feel of good metallic pads biting more as they get hotter. Now that they are "out of favor", the prices have decreased.
Looking through the Raybestos (and similar) online catalogs, there are listings for "police" and other HD uses. Make sure that you have 11x3 brakes on the back, too! The wider shoes should fit the backing plates, but you might need new drums for the wider shoes. If they are not already there.
On the other hand, the sizing of the brakes appears to be very ample, with factory parts. Find some better brake pads AND don't forget about the role of tires in the stopping performance mix! Chrysler products always had better braking response than similar GM cars, with less pedal travel. Remember that in full trailer mode, with the HD trailer package, the New Yorker was rated to tow a trailer of about 12K pounds. So, aim for the HD option specs!
CBODY67
On the edge of the brake pads, there are some numbers/letters. This code identifies the pad material as to coefficient of friction between the pad and rotor. There are two letters, the first for "cold stops", the second is for "hot stops". Letters go from "C" to "F", with "F" being highest. Aim for "FF" markings. Factory pads are bonded rather than riveted. The other code items define the maker of the friction, the "batch", and the coefficients I mentioned.
The purpose of the slots and holes is to allow the gasses produced by the brake pad, as it works, to better escape rather than stay there. It's supposed to be "the gas layer" that causes brake fade, so getting rid of the gasses is supposed to help. BUT unless you're trying to hold down the speed of the car (and trailer) down a long descent, OR are into heavy road racing, these things can be more "show" than go, in reality.
Everybody's headed toward ceramic pads. Ceramic pads used to be what the LeMans people used, due to its higher heat tolerance. On the road, the push is because of legislation to get all of the copper out of brake friction materials, so that means "ceramic". Ceramics are more abrasive to the rotor surface than other types of friction.
Personally, I still like the feel of good metallic pads biting more as they get hotter. Now that they are "out of favor", the prices have decreased.
Looking through the Raybestos (and similar) online catalogs, there are listings for "police" and other HD uses. Make sure that you have 11x3 brakes on the back, too! The wider shoes should fit the backing plates, but you might need new drums for the wider shoes. If they are not already there.
On the other hand, the sizing of the brakes appears to be very ample, with factory parts. Find some better brake pads AND don't forget about the role of tires in the stopping performance mix! Chrysler products always had better braking response than similar GM cars, with less pedal travel. Remember that in full trailer mode, with the HD trailer package, the New Yorker was rated to tow a trailer of about 12K pounds. So, aim for the HD option specs!
CBODY67
You know this thread is from 2013
That said, nice write up.
The above "drilled and slotted" are pure "visual horsepower"... for the rotors to really get any improvements from that treatment they would have the strengthening ribs in the center cast in a spiral shape so they pump air. That would also make them directional, so the cheap "look at me" versions like above only look like they do something. An easy way to spot these in common practice is to make the non-directional rotors look correct on the left side and backwards on the right.Form my personal experiences most factory setups were also appearance only, the exceptions being sporting models which have a left/right rotor availability.
The Brembo link has a video... note the straight ribs are not actually straight and the drill pattern is to work with left or right pumping... but you would not ever want to spend the $$ for these rotors even if they were available for a C Body.
Carbon-ceramic discs | Brembo - Official Website
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