Mark IV underdash install questions

GBsPanhead

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Been traveling again last week, finally home.

Mocking up the install for the Mark IV under dash unit, and looking for pictures on the unit mounted under the dash, or any other under dash units to get some ideas. Looks like the unit has to be fairly level within two degrees I believe. I saw some units that were way angled incorrectly based on the install instructions. Just holding up the unit in place, what I believe is the heater box above center tunnel, is not letting me mount the Mark IV far enough back. So wanted to see some pictures of the Mark IV or similar units mounted. Couldn't really find anything on the internet. This is for my '69 300 'vert. Thanks guys!
 
If it's bumping up against the heater box, get spacers to allow the whole thing to be a bit lower under the dash to stay level and still be back far enough.
 
Some pics might be duplicates. I can set the Mark4 on the tunnel, lifting a little, but not sure if this is supposed to stick out this far. I could partially mount under dash on passenger side, and get unit further back, but interferes with passengers legs alittle. Brackets from VA for the Mark 4 are a joke! Will make my own, or if I set on tunnel, will need some type of bracket coming up from underneath.

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And yes, she's dusty/dirty inside! Crawling under the dash is not fun, so hand prints and dirt in places! Will be all sparkly clean when done!!
 
Oof... the factory heater box really does push the AC unit forward - so it's not really an option to do what I suggested earlier.

What about moving it over to the passenger side?
 
Oof... the factory heater box really does push the AC unit forward - so it's not really an option to do what I suggested earlier.

What about moving it over to the passenger side?

That's what I'm thinking. Some research has shown the underdash unit is not centered over tunnel, but off to the right...half of unit over tunnel, other half going into passenger area. I read it here somewhere, or on another site maybe. If I mount it off center, I can push the unit way back, and looks factory. I even believe there are holes already in place from factory to do this. I have to do some measurements.
 
Although not nearly as complicated this reminds me of installing my Pioneer SuperTuner under the dash of my 68 Cutlass in the early 1970"s. Good job and I hope it works well for you.
 
From back when we got an aftermarket a/c in our '61 BelAir . . .

Mark IV was a premium brand, but we opted for a more reasonably-priced unit of another brand. Some brands were less deep than others, but that usually meant less evaporator capacity.

There was nor any real orientation of where to put the unit. The desired location was in the middle, over the trans hump. This allowed for the water drain tubes to run through the trans hump. The way most dash panels were designed back then, the "center hump" location was typically used. Mounting angle was usually "flat", or with enough angle so the condensate would drain readily. BUT if the space would work better with the outlet angled UP, that worked too.

By nature, the side mounting brackets were universal.

I believe the compressor was wired directly to the thermostat on the unit as that controlled "coolness" and when the compressor cycled.

All of the Ford "factory a/c" units were under-dash until the 1965 full-size car reconfiguration/restyle. Mustangs and others used the under-dash units a few years after that.

In certain humid conditions, as we encountered on a trip to the then-new Astro Dome in 1965, the evaporator would ice up. When it started to thaw, we discovered we could "launch" cold water drops into the back seat on higher fan speeds. Neat fun until the "old folks" in the back seat complained!

As all of those units were universal-fit, all you can do is make it fit your application as best you can. That's what was done back then! Just make sure you can route the drain tubes to do their job!

Just some recollections,
CBODY67
 
CBody!!!!!! I think that's the answer!!!! The 2 degrees of rear slope is so the drains can drain properly!! I'm thinking I can angle it up more. I was playing around again tonight, and I can angle the Mark 4 up way more, so it points up more towards the roof, not at the knees! I can't get a picture now of how I mocked it up centered over tunnel, (car put away, and wife parked too close to door to open), but I got the Mark 4 angled up, looks way, way better than what's in the pics. I just have to confirm with VA if it's OK to have the angles I have. But based on what you said, and 2 degrees of rear slope, according to install directions, that's what I'm thinking it's for....for the drains.
 
Absolutely the angle is for the drains, and there's no real problem to have it angled up more. Gravity is your friend in this instance.

Make sure that the drain tubes are accessible from the outside of the car so you can periodically poke a pipe cleaner up them to clear out the crap that may collect in there and block the drains over time.
 
Yep, no problem with aiming it over the top of the front seat! Otherwise, "warm" in the back seat. No real "rules" other than "make it fit" and not compromise the center front seat passenger's knee room, best you can.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
Hey Ross, that was my concern...if something would not work right with the Mark 4 angled more than 2 degrees. If I can angle it back the way I like and want, it will look good, and centered over tunnel, hugging the curve of the dash, with my 4 gauge pod mounted above it.

I have to go to Arizona again next week, but I'm off the entire week after Labor Day weekend. Hoping to get this all mounted that week. Thanks guys!!
 
I can't see it should be a problem - talk with the manufacturer just to be sure... you're using the reproduction Mark IV unit that's available new, correct? Or is this Mark IV one that's an oldie but a goodie? Either way it should be fine.
 
These are some of the other parts I got for the install. May need one more bracket. Still need to order a AC hose clamping kit from Mastertool. Want to get all the hardware installed first, make hoses last. Ordered extra connectors just in case I mess something up!!

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A word to the wise - DON'T try to make your own hoses. I have never heard of anybody having success... spend the money and have a pro shop do the crimping. You'll save yourself a whole lot of grief. Everything else you can do yourself.
 
Thanks Ross! I do have a shop that makes hoses for all industries not too far from me. I'll have to stop by, show them what I have, and see if they will crimp for me, and at what cost.

I just realized I don't have the compressor mounting bracket. I thought I ordered one, but guess not. BPE looks good, but is way expensive. Looking for alternates now!
 
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