Metal fuel lines

[bronze turbine]

I've been thinking about the possibility of an engine fire due to using rubber fuel line between the fuel pump and carb, but I don't have the original carb on the engine and I don't have any way of making a custom metal fuel line. Can these be bought? I have a Street Demon carb and it's on a '68 300 with the standard 440. Any advice?

 

[57fury440]

You could buy the reproduction steel fuel line for the 440. Where it attaches to the carburetor you would have to use a short piece of rubber line to attach it, but it would still be better than what you have now.

 

[thethee]

Following

 

[fury fan]

Find some of the vendors for tubing/hoses and see what is available.
Looks like the fuel inlet to teh Street Demon is located roughly like a Thermoquad, so maybe a 72-74 bigblock musclecar fuel line might be close enough to tweak?

Also - 5/16" flared lines might still be available at a good auto parts store. Bending and cutting/flaring tools will be cheap, too. FWIW I have always had difficulty bending that type of line, it is much easier to kink than 3/16" brake tubing (must make slow gentle bending movements). But the cutting/flaring is much more forgiving on fuel lines than on brake lines (much lower pressure).

You'll need to install a filter between pump and carb, so some type of fab-work will be needed. A simple mini-flare or bubble from a flaring tool can create the 'bump' at the end of the tube to help with hose retention.

 

[Big_John]

I think you could use a line kit like this: 68-69-70-71 Mopar Fuel Pump To Carb Carburetor Line Lines 440 4Bbl Carter Avs Oe | eBay

The line from the pump to the filter would remain unchanged and you might have to tweak the line from the filter to the carb though. It might be close enough.

If you already have the steel line from the pump to the filter, you could just buy a short length of 5/16" steel brake line at your local shop. That would have the double flare and the nut on both ends. Cut and bend, leaving the flared end to connect to the carb. Ideally, you would have the end that the tube goes on flared (for want of a better name) to push the rubber hose from the filter over it, but it's not the end of the world if you don't. Just push the hose farther up the steel line at that point and clamp.

Example of a 12" piece of 5/16" steel brake line: Amazon product ASIN B000CIFV04

 

[CBODY67]

When I put the Torker 383 and 9801 TQ on my '67 Newport 383, the rear line to the carb was easy enough to make with a simple tubing bender. Just had to go slow to get the angles right as it transitioned from the carb to parallel to the valve cover (per OEM routings). This was before all of those things were in repro. Later, I even bent the lower line from the fuel pump to the fuel filter, too. Took two sticks of line to do that one, though, due to crimps which happened.

NOW, it is easy to just order things up. If you have a 383, then order a set for a '72 or so 400TQ application. IF you have a 440, then a similar 440TQ application. For good measure, you can get the lower and upper lines.

Considering the issues with ethanol'd fuels deteriorating rubber fuel lines FROM THE INSIDE OUT, having the OEM-style metal lines is definitely a good idea. Stainless steel braided lines? They still have rubber inside of them, so the same thing happens to them, too.

Just some thoughts and experiences,
CBODY67

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Street Demon on my 440 using the Inline Tube steel line (thank you Big_John) from the pump, through a METAL filter, back to steel as per OEM, then cut a bit off the end of the upper tube as shown and finish with a short length of hose. When you cut the line, you must slightly flare the cut end so that there is no chance of the hose sliding off when clamped. A slight flare can be made by hammering an appropriate-sized center punch into the cut end, or buy a cheap flaring tool at any auto parts store. You don't need the fancy nipple shape like is on the fuel filter ends of the tube(s).

Where the tube passes between the alternator/distributor/front of the valve cover is a bit of a fiddle, but it'll work out just fine with patience and maybe some very minor bending, if required.

You'll buy a brass 5/16 fitting to screw into the carb inlet and you're good to go.

Modern fuel hose (5/16ths in this case from your auto parts store) fully tolerates ethanol gas, as does that modern Street Demon.

 

[John Kirby]

If you want the coolness factor consider using braided steel line from the pump to the carb. It does cost a bit more, the main expense is the Koul tool for installing the fittings. Make sure you wrap tape around the line before cutting it, and a chop saw works best, utherwise the end will fray outward and drive you nuts. Pull the tape off after cutting and push/twist it into the tool while it's in a vise. Tighten the fittings and you're done.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Braided steel lines lost their coolness factor in 1983, along with all that other ugly billet ****. It's awful, and has no place under the hood of a classic car.

Do it right or don't do it.

It's just my opinion.......but you're welcome to mess up your visuals any which way you please