Metal gold cad look.

Sounds like everything worked out great.

I think a more reasonable price for the Eastwood kit would be around $30, and they might sell more of them at that price point. I was going to mention one of the advantages of the Eastwood kit was how quickly the paint dried because it was lacquer. I've used Krylon for decades, but it's always been a mystery as to what it actually is. I'm pretty sure it's some kind of enamel, but it does dry really fast compared to traditional enamels like the original Rustoleum. The fact that you found the right paints in Krylon gives the benefit of a good price and a quick drying time.

I've found that Krylon is compatible with lacquer based primers, which is what most of the automotive stuff is. You just can't put it over the enamel primers, like the standard Rustoleum. The newer Rustoleum paints that dry quicker along with their Professional line are similar to Krylon and I think they work ok with Krylon.

Years ago I painted the instrument cluster bezel for my 1965 GMC with black Rustoleum, then attempted to paint the silver areas with Krylon and it was a total disaster. The Krylon instantly crazed and lifted the Rustoleum and turned into a mess. I sanded it and repainted the whole thing black. I sold the truck 20 years ago, just happened to locate it for sale on the internet a few months ago, and the bezel is still all black.

Jeff
 
Sounds like everything worked out great.

I think a more reasonable price for the Eastwood kit would be around $30, and they might sell more of them at that price point. I was going to mention one of the advantages of the Eastwood kit was how quickly the paint dried because it was lacquer. I've used Krylon for decades, but it's always been a mystery as to what it actually is. I'm pretty sure it's some kind of enamel, but it does dry really fast compared to traditional enamels like the original Rustoleum. The fact that you found the right paints in Krylon gives the benefit of a good price and a quick drying time.

I've found that Krylon is compatible with lacquer based primers, which is what most of the automotive stuff is. You just can't put it over the enamel primers, like the standard Rustoleum. The newer Rustoleum paints that dry quicker along with their Professional line are similar to Krylon and I think they work ok with Krylon.

Years ago I painted the instrument cluster bezel for my 1965 GMC with black Rustoleum, then attempted to paint the silver areas with Krylon and it was a total disaster. The Krylon instantly crazed and lifted the Rustoleum and turned into a mess. I sanded it and repainted the whole thing black. I sold the truck 20 years ago, just happened to locate it for sale on the internet a few months ago, and the bezel is still all black.

Jeff
I ran into the issue with the Rustoleum primer. I decided to use it once based on convenience and price, instead of the NAPA product. Now I always make sure I have a can of what I prefer on the shelf. It has an excellent shelf life, a nice fine mist; sandable, and won't clog, so I always get every drop out of it.
 
I am happier with these results more defined then previously. No clear applied.

20210320_163722.jpg
20210320_163741.jpg
 
Looks good
Are you going to bake the parts at all?
My concern with rattle can paint is that it remains relatively soft.
I have had good experiences with baking parts in an old toaster oven.

I hadn't planned to but I have a stove I use in my lens making process. What temperature and for how long?
 
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