commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Why am I the only conservative one? 
My 440 Build
- Thread starter jstaples2
- Start date
jstaples2
Member
I'd rather not buy race gas
I can get 93 octane at the station near me. So, if I do go with the 993 then I'd want a stall converter. If the rpm power range is 2000 - 5600 then I'd likely need a 2500 converter?
Like this Hughes Performance 24-25: Street Master Torque Converter Chrysler 727 Torqueflite | JEGS
Decisions, decisions
I can get 93 octane at the station near me. So, if I do go with the 993 then I'd want a stall converter. If the rpm power range is 2000 - 5600 then I'd likely need a 2500 converter?
Like this Hughes Performance 24-25: Street Master Torque Converter Chrysler 727 Torqueflite | JEGS
Decisions, decisions
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
I would seriously doubt you will get to the 10.26 : 1 compression with the 80cc head and the piston down in the hole the .029-.030 that the numbers work out to. You will most like be at least .050-60 in the hole and with a good closed chamber aluminum head it should be fine.
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
2500 stall may be a little much, 2000-2200 would do it
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Put a turbo action Hemi converter in it
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
What was the stall that came with the 440 HP engines?
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
I don't know Chrysler did everything by k factor, which is the right way. It was probably a bit "tighter" than a Hemi converter.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
"k" factor?
You gonna make me Google that?
You gonna make me Google that?
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
That's what it says in Mopar performance catalog and in the engine and chassis books say. I'm not sure how it works but it is a formula I believe to take into account the power band and torque of the engine to give a stall speed. In other words if you use the same converter behind a 340, 440, Hemi, each will stall differently.
That's all I have now you can Google it.
That's all I have now you can Google it.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
So, you used a term to sound smart but I caught you. Is that what you are saying?
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
You asked if the stall was the same Hemi/440 I said it was done by K factor so I did not know, I admitted to being stupid right off the bat
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
OK. Let's try it this way...
How many different BB torque converters did the factory produce and what were their stall speeds?
How many different BB torque converters did the factory produce and what were their stall speeds?
has2bmopar
Senior Member
It will be a 727 thing, no designation big or small block.
There were 11" and 12" factory converters, but every C-body with a B or RB engine I have seen came out with a 12".
I would recommend about a 2500 stall in an 11" and under normal driving you will never tell a difference from a stock converter.
One note no one seemed to point out is that the angled plugs on Edelbrock heads might pose an issue if you are running manifolds. Possibly someone here has dealt with this. It could give even more clearance, but checking ahead of time would be wise.
The Mopar/Edelbrock heads ran the straight plugs and still had the heli-coiled bolt holes and better valves, springs and retainers vs the chinese 440 source heads, but it seems whomever is in charge of pricing the Mopar heads is a moron and damn near doubled the price in the last couple years. They must really not want to sell any... Did I already say MORONS? I also noticed the Mopar .509 Purple shaft with lifters is nearly $600...SFB
Also for others' reference, as Stan touched on; the Comp Extreme Energy cams are noisy as they just drop the valve closed and beat the hell out of your valve-train.
There were 11" and 12" factory converters, but every C-body with a B or RB engine I have seen came out with a 12".
I would recommend about a 2500 stall in an 11" and under normal driving you will never tell a difference from a stock converter.
One note no one seemed to point out is that the angled plugs on Edelbrock heads might pose an issue if you are running manifolds. Possibly someone here has dealt with this. It could give even more clearance, but checking ahead of time would be wise.
The Mopar/Edelbrock heads ran the straight plugs and still had the heli-coiled bolt holes and better valves, springs and retainers vs the chinese 440 source heads, but it seems whomever is in charge of pricing the Mopar heads is a moron and damn near doubled the price in the last couple years. They must really not want to sell any... Did I already say MORONS? I also noticed the Mopar .509 Purple shaft with lifters is nearly $600...SFB
Also for others' reference, as Stan touched on; the Comp Extreme Energy cams are noisy as they just drop the valve closed and beat the hell out of your valve-train.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Their cams have gone through the roof, damn shame for profiles that have been around since the 70s. I'm not a fan of comp cams flat stuff I think they make fine products elsewhere, if the powers that be told them they did not have to make flat tappet cams they would be out tomorrow.
jstaples2
Member
I ended up going with the 677 (magnum replacement). It was really hard to find any reviews of guys using the 677 or 993 in a 440. And most of what I did see was folks using the 993 (Hemi grind) for more top-end performance. I read anecdotally in a couple posts that the low-end/driveabilty suffers with the more aggressive 993 as well, but again I couldn't find anyone actually running that cam in a 440. I was really struggling with getting the more aggressive grind, but I hear that going with the more conservative of 2 choices usually is the best decision. Cam is in the mail, I hope to have it this week then off to the machinist to test-fit with new cam bearings.
If all goes well I hope to have the newly machined block, crank, pistons & reconditioned rods back home this week.
If all goes well I hope to have the newly machined block, crank, pistons & reconditioned rods back home this week.
jstaples2
Member
Cam and lifters came today. Getting excited!
jstaples2
Member
The block is back from the shop along with the crank, rods and pistons. I was able to get the cam installed tonight. Tomorrow, I'll work on the crank.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Mighty mighty fine! I'm really looking forward to seeing how this build with this cam turns out. I'm looking at using this cam when I do the rebuild on my 440.
jstaples2
Member
Just a little update.
Mains and crank measured within tolerance using dial bore gauges and plastigauge so I cleaned everything up, lubed everything up and laid the crank. It went pretty easy, everything torque'd up nice and easy and it spins freely by hand!
Mains and crank measured within tolerance using dial bore gauges and plastigauge so I cleaned everything up, lubed everything up and laid the crank. It went pretty easy, everything torque'd up nice and easy and it spins freely by hand!
jstaples2
Member
Question about compression ring gaps.
Are most rings going to be file-to-fit? I bought Hastings moly rings and they seem to be a bit tight if I use the feeler gauges. I get anywhere from .013 to .014 inches of gap for both Ring 1 and Ring 2. This is about .001 to .002 short of the manufacturers minimum suggestion. Is this pretty normal to expect to file to fit each one? And if so, should I overshoot each ring an extra .001 or .002 to be safe?
Checking Compression Ring Gaps
Are most rings going to be file-to-fit? I bought Hastings moly rings and they seem to be a bit tight if I use the feeler gauges. I get anywhere from .013 to .014 inches of gap for both Ring 1 and Ring 2. This is about .001 to .002 short of the manufacturers minimum suggestion. Is this pretty normal to expect to file to fit each one? And if so, should I overshoot each ring an extra .001 or .002 to be safe?
Checking Compression Ring Gaps
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