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Super clean looking ride. It will be awesome.
My 66, 440TNT used to eat LH motor mounts until I chained it down.
Nice looking 4dr HT.
You got a lot of work coming. I wouldn't put the shocks or gas tank in right now. No point in putting new parts in to have to take them back out later. Stop by Grainger and get one of their portable sandblasters. It's a small unit that holds about 50 pounds of blasting material. Get an air compressor for it too. Sandblast all that rust away and paint the underside. In the process you will need to weld over some holes and replace those rotten lower quarters. I got a wire welder years ago, works great for this kind of stuff. Might find one on craigs list. A set of metal burrs are needed for cleaning up the welds. An angle grinder is your friend too. Lots of youtube videos on welding patch panels. The underside isn't as critical appearance wise, but you want to stop the rust now. As Neil Young said, rust never sleeps.
Lots of folks on this site that have been there, done that. Ask questions, it's your car, modify it as you want. We're here to help a mopar fan. I'm a 66 New Yorker fan:
With a little luck it could start like this:
And turn into this along the way:
It becomes an addiction when you get to this point. You won't want to stop. Good luck and ask lots of questions.
Oh, post a photo of the fender plate. It tells a lot about the options your car has. There are people here that can decode it for you.
Oh, man, what a sweet 2-door! I think you nailed it with those rims. Rarely do I like aftermarket ones on the old "C"s, but your combination works.
I bookmarked your post. I can use the reference.
I also second the recommendation re: the gas tank. I have a Dodge Caravan that sat for longer than I'm willing to disclose, while awaiting a replacement timing belt. Cleaning up the tank was a bitch, but I'm glad I did. It helped that, unlike the C-body tanks, it's made of rustproof plastic and has a nice big hole (for the electric fuel pump) that let me reach everywhere inside.
Not looking forward to this job on the T&C.
So...I have the 67 tank modified to fit the 66.
I got it hanging in place and was tracing the lines to replace the rubber hose connectors...and one fell off the car.
There is two vent lines, one goes up into the trunk and the other seems to be just a loop and hangs down...is that right or am I missing a line.
Trunk line is good, its the other little piece that popped off the crossframe...wee bit of rubber hose to a metal line U
Btw if you use the 67 straps then you don't have to modify the j bolts
Regarding the vent lines in the tank. What you describe is exactly the way my 67 Monaco was and it was untouched before I got to it.
Ok, very good to know
Nice car. I believe your color is (French) Ivory, I have the same on my 65 300. Color code S.
That 440 will be a hoot to drive.
The non stock side markers on my 65 300.
Those look a lot better than the boat trailer side markers I've got on mine.
Oh those craiger 5 spoke rims are exactly what I was thinking too! I've got the original hubcaps already hanging on my shop wall ))
Ok, tank in, no leaks but the gauge isn't working..thought it might be connected to the dash lights not working..new switch fixed those but not the gauge.
Plugs and wires, fuel filter done. New brake booster and master done.
Waiting for tie rod ends and ball joints from rockauto.
Next big one will be exhaust...anybody know of a loud and proud kit for this?
How does the ground for the sending unit look? My 77 had no gauge for a while because the ground strap was super rusty and not even connected.
If I'm right, that's the one single wire that plugs externally on the sending unit yeah,? Well...it clicked into place I felt like. Tomorrow I'm going to lift Daisy back up and recheck it there first.
Definitive answer for a 1966 tank tho.
- spectra tank for a 67, bend the flanges on the back and left side up flush with flashing pliers. Gently peen the front flange on tank where the straps rise.
- spectra strap for a 67, no mod needed but save grief and get new j bolts
- sending unit for a 66.
That wire should be the power wire that takes the reading from the gauge. Additionally, you should have a ground strap from the metal fuel line on the tank to the metal fuel line on the body. Below are pictures of the connection on the fuel line (with the two clamps, which isn't necessary, my dad and I just did it to ensure a good connection) and then the connection on the body, which we bolted down using the bolt for the fuel line clamp. However, you could also just run the end of the strap around the car's metal fuel line as was used on the tank's fuel line. In the pictures, you can also see the wire that you have on yours to the right of the ground strap on the tank side.
My vote would be for TTi TTiHomePage. Mine fit perfectly. you could probably get one a little cheaper but might have to wrestle with it.
I went with Borla's on my Fury and love them. I had an system custom bent in Rock Hill, SC with an H pipe installation for around 450. Manifolds to rear bumper. He ran 2 1/2 inch aluminized pipe