My Alternator Education Starts Here.

One other thing, you might have to dick around with changing the water pump, power steering, crank, and smog pump pulleys to a set from an rb engine with the squareback alt. I dont know for sure just how "special" that big bastard setup really is. Might have trouble getting belts to line up. It shouldn't be hard to scrounge those parts if you need to though.
 
One other thing, you might have to dick around with changing the water pump, power steering, crank, and smog pump pulleys to a set from an rb engine with the squareback alt. I dont know for sure just how "special" that big bastard setup really is. It shouldn't be hard to scrounge those parts if you need to though.
At first appearances when thinking this through, I think dumping the old compressor and alternator brackets will be all I need. The crank has the tripple groove pulley. But that's for later and easily solvable at that time. Thanks again. ☺
 
Changing over from old to new will save a ton of weight tween the alternator, compressor, and the brackets, too.

Gonna have to adjust the torsion bars to reset ride height after. Don't you already have a lighter radiator?
 
Why am I always the Guinea Pig... :poke:

:D

You're retired.....you have plenty of time. LOL!

I engineered the 78 wiper cam and the Daytona Charger steering wheel. Probably some other stuff I forgot about already. LOL!
 
I'm still waiting on the picture of your work around on the compressor bracket in the way of the thermostat bolt.
 
You're retired.....you have plenty of time. LOL!

I engineered the 78 wiper cam and the Daytona Charger steering wheel. Probably some other stuff I forgot about already. LOL!

Funny thing is my '78 came with your wiper cam mod.
 
I'm still waiting on the picture of your work around on the compressor bracket in the way of the thermostat bolt.
It's simple, Bob.
Look at how the bracket prevents you from getting a straight shot at the housing bolt with a swivel socket and extension. Draw the location on the bracket with chalk. Remove. Grind. Have a beer.
 
When I was doing the alternator conversion I bought a Dodge 120 amp unit like the one shown previously in this thread for $20 from Ebay. I wanted to have one wire system so I installed a rectifier from a Honda alternator I had (surprisingly all bearing are same size, rectifier fits just fine, winding resistance is the same and looks like they are made by same manufacturer). That worked for me and now the alt. is charging steady 14 Volts at idle.
DSCN9405.JPG
 
My 63 Fury BB is set up "backwards". I thought it was factory, maybe not.
Superfragl, sweet looking engine.
 
When I was doing the alternator conversion I bought a Dodge 120 amp unit like the one shown previously in this thread for $20 from Ebay. I wanted to have one wire system so I installed a rectifier from a Honda alternator I had (surprisingly all bearing are same size, rectifier fits just fine, winding resistance is the same and looks like they are made by same manufacturer). That worked for me and now the alt. is charging steady 14 Volts at idle.
View attachment 74700
I was hoping you had the part # of that rectifier or the Honda model that alternator came out of.
 
I think the alternator was from a 95 Honda Accord, like this one
1995 Honda Accord 2.2L 4cyl Alternator 130 Amp high output 1 Year Warranty
You can actually use this one if you swap the pulleys (plenty of them at Summit Racing for $10-15) and it is smaller than Dodge alt. and stock mounts will work. It is 130 Amp and has dummy light output, ignition input (starts charging at idle with no revs required) and two charging modes (high charge and low charge - I am not using this feature)
 
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