Need 68 440 motor for 68 300. Would love an HP but will settle for non HP.
Thanks,
tdenkler3853@earthlink.net
Thanks,
tdenkler3853@earthlink.net
need 68 440 motor
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commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I think all the '68 date coded 440's are in Roadrunners by now.
PM Mike (Newp) on this site. He has a bunch of 440's. I don't know if he has a 1968.
I don't have the 440's.......Newp has them. PM him for info.
I think he's asking Tom where HE is located
yeah ur prob right. keep hoping/trying
i remember when they were eleventy million 440's in junkyards. All gone!
i remember when they were eleventy million 440's in junkyards. All gone!
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
That's why I stick to CL for cast crank 440's out of RV's.
Dime a dozen down here. Always clean inside, too.
How many you want by week's end?
What is your opinion of using RV 440? Change cam and heads? Anything else? Cast crank ok for pushing Cbody around?
I heard block side webs are thicker, bigger water passages,etc?
What do you think?
Like you say, I can find them easy.
Tom
I heard block side webs are thicker, bigger water passages,etc?
What do you think?
Like you say, I can find them easy.
Tom
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
RV 440s are my engine of choice.
There's zero difference between blocks.
Cast cranks can easily take 500 hp turning them.
The 452 RV heads have tested to be the best flowing of all heads. Even the 915's.
All the diffs you have heard about the different blocks is totally a myth. A 440 block is a 440 block is a 440 block. Makes no diff what year they were cast.
The water passage myth concerns only the heads where the 451 heads have extra cooling passages. Also the later blocks do have slightly thicker webs but it's tiny.
< Sent from my tablet >
has2bmopar
Senior Member
The older blocks did not have the external webbing on the blocks and they also had less bosses cast into the block for bolting on accessories.
If you are planning on porting heads and putting larger than stock valves in them, the 906s have some advantage with a higher arch in the intake runners.
If you are just touching up valves and not replacing seats it is a no-brainer to use the 346s or 452s with the hardened seats.
If you are planning on porting heads and putting larger than stock valves in them, the 906s have some advantage with a higher arch in the intake runners.
If you are just touching up valves and not replacing seats it is a no-brainer to use the 346s or 452s with the hardened seats.
Would it be good idea to use 451 heads with the extra cooling margin. Seems that would be a plus. Weight doesn't matter 68 300 vert! is a barge anyway.
I was always told that all big blocks heads were virtually the same with the exception of the 63 300J heads which are the same as 67 HP heads. These are only heads with 1.74 exhaust AND closed chamber.What's your opinion on heads. I just want some low end ooomph!
Thanks,
Tom
I was always told that all big blocks heads were virtually the same with the exception of the 63 300J heads which are the same as 67 HP heads. These are only heads with 1.74 exhaust AND closed chamber.What's your opinion on heads. I just want some low end ooomph!
Thanks,
Tom
Anyone know what RV440 comp ratio is? How much to take off heads for @10-1?
Thanks,
Tom Denkler
Thanks,
Tom Denkler
Tom, With the crap we're forced to burn today I'd get 'um flat and let it go. You have to take off a bunch to increase compression enough to hurt you. What ever you do I'd go the extra $ and deck the block too. It's easy to miss a low spot at the bridges and outboard of the pins if you just straight edge 'um! If you're going thru' the whole thing and go any appreciable over size piston most manufactures offset the piston pin to keep you at factory stock compression or 9 1/2-1 to 10-1. You said it yourself, We drive Barges 'cuz we like um. My ride tips the scales with a full tank and me in it at 5800* and I can still lite 'um up for a good long ways. You priced out a good set of 15" Diamond Backs lately? Street brawlers they ain't and were never built to be!Anyway My .2s, Jer...BTW, I account for all of 170* of that 5800*
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
On one 440, I had to go .030 over on the bores so I chose pistons that brought it up to 10:1. I wish I hadn't. Had to retard the timing so badly even with 93 octane, it was a waste of money and a PITA to tune. Like he said above, don't make a cut unless to zero deck it because of serious warpage.
has2bmopar
Senior Member
You should not run into cooling issues with any heads in a passenger vehicle.
The first step with a compression ratio is to settle on a set of heads and then check the chamber volume... I would not attempt to make a quench engine with iron, closed chamber heads, if you plan on running pump gas.
When you know what chamber CCs you are dealing with, then choose the correct piston by the compression height and valve relief volume that get you around 9.5 to 1 for pump gas with iron heads and 10.5 to 1 with aluminum heads.
ALWAYS change your compression with the piston and to a small degree the head gaskets... The pistons along with the head gaskets are the expendable parts, not the heads, and certainly not the block.
Squaring up or checking the block deck however is a good idea, and of course a small degree of milling is fine, but larger amounts will mess up your valve-train geometry and can also screw up your preload in your lifters if you do not have adjustable rockers or pushrods.
Compression height on pistons is figured considering a 10.72" deck height on a 440.
If you want to confirm your compression ratio before you send for pistons you can PM me so I notice the request and I can show you the math/numbers and how to figure it before you invest in parts.
If you insist on cheaper pistons like Speed Pro/Sealed Power/Federal Mogul be sure to get forged and NOT cast pistons, and let your machinist know that they are forged as your skirt clearance will vary depending on the piston material and use.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Has2b nailed it....
Wow Thanks for the tons of info. It all is pretty well over my head. I see the point of using pistons to change cr ratio instead of milling. Makes sense.
Thanks,
Tom Denkler
Thanks,
Tom Denkler
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