WorkerBee
Active Member
There's about 15 1965-1968 C bodies at your local wrecking yard..........WOW.....must be nice!
Nice 300 btw. :icon_thumright:
New Member from Montana - '68 300
- Thread starter MTMoparfan65
- Start date
There's about 15 1965-1968 C bodies at your local wrecking yard..........WOW.....must be nice!
Nice 300 btw. :icon_thumright:
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2010
- Messages
- 27,945
- Reaction score
- 26,888
I don't care how many years ago it was I will not forgive you for parting this 300.
MTMoparfan65
Member
Update on Chrysler 300 4 speed conversion
Over the last couple of months I've been collecting the parts necessary to convert my '68 Chrysler 300 from an auto to 4 speed and now have everything I'll need so I thought I'd post an update. To recap, I'll be using an aluminum overdrive 4 speed, a hydraulic throw out bearing kit, and various other new and used parts. I have a foot locker full of shifters and linkage so the one in the picture likely won't be the one actually used in the car.
I hope to dig into it in about a week. In the meantime I'll be collecting the three other C bodies I made a deal on this week ('70 Fury 'vert, '70 Chrysler 300 & '71 Chrysler Town & Country Wagon). Details and pics to follow as I get them home.
Over the last couple of months I've been collecting the parts necessary to convert my '68 Chrysler 300 from an auto to 4 speed and now have everything I'll need so I thought I'd post an update. To recap, I'll be using an aluminum overdrive 4 speed, a hydraulic throw out bearing kit, and various other new and used parts. I have a foot locker full of shifters and linkage so the one in the picture likely won't be the one actually used in the car.
I hope to dig into it in about a week. In the meantime I'll be collecting the three other C bodies I made a deal on this week ('70 Fury 'vert, '70 Chrysler 300 & '71 Chrysler Town & Country Wagon). Details and pics to follow as I get them home.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Where's your new tranny mount you're gonna need?
Also, does the bell housing have the correct size hole diameter to accept the 4 speed input seal retainer?
Also, does the bell housing have the correct size hole diameter to accept the 4 speed input seal retainer?
MTMoparfan65
Member
Swap
New tranny mount? A 727 auto and 833 4 speed are exactly the same length and mount the same. I will replace the rubber mount just because it's nearly 50 years old, and also plan on using a mini-starter.
Yes, I had the bellhousing opening bored out to 4.80 and the bearing retainer machined down the match. The bellhousing opening was 4.35" and the bearing retainer 5.125".
I'll also have to cut about 3/4" off of the transmission input shaft and use a roller pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft since it's not drilled for a manual trans.
And finally, remove the over-center spring from the pedal assembly because I'm using a diaphragm clutch.
Not my first rodeo.
New tranny mount? A 727 auto and 833 4 speed are exactly the same length and mount the same. I will replace the rubber mount just because it's nearly 50 years old, and also plan on using a mini-starter.
Yes, I had the bellhousing opening bored out to 4.80 and the bearing retainer machined down the match. The bellhousing opening was 4.35" and the bearing retainer 5.125".
I'll also have to cut about 3/4" off of the transmission input shaft and use a roller pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft since it's not drilled for a manual trans.
And finally, remove the over-center spring from the pedal assembly because I'm using a diaphragm clutch.
Not my first rodeo.
livininharrow
Senior Member
yes he stole it. they throw people like him in jail around here.
67Monaco
Go Woke, Go Broke.
Welcome. Belated, NICE CAR!.
Fratzog
Old Man with a Hat
Welcome aboard from Ontario Canada. Great deal on a great looking car. Look forward to your updates on the conversion.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I can now obviously see that. Very well, done.Not my first rodeo.
still have the Merc?
MTMoparfan65
Member
Bart
Member
Beautiful car!!! What part of MT are you from? I am a Helena native, moving back next Spring!
MTMoparfan65
Member
As my profile shows, Helena.
BigFury
Well-Known Member
Looks like he's escaped apprehension so far:laughing4:
MTMoparfan65
Member
4 sp update
After gathering all of the parts for the 4 speed conversion on my '68 Chrysler 300, I started working on it about a week ago. The first step was to remove the factory heater box and all the associated A/C components because the heater core was bad. Since the price for a complete new Vintage Air system is the same as for just the heater core, that's the way I'm going. I'm using an under dash system (Summit P/N 11300-VUZ-A). I had a local shop CNC cut a plate to cover the openings in the firewall from the old heater.
I then had to troubleshoot some wiring issues and got the dash lights and AM radio working.
As for the transmission swap, I have the old trans pulled out, pedal assemblies swapped, and hole cut in the floor for the trans. I discovered that the crankshaft WAS drilled for a manual trans (440 TNT) and that a '73 - '75 A-body power brake booster assembly bolts right in with the manual brake pedals. You just have to make sure to get the firewall reinforcement plate along with the pedals.
Perhaps tomorrow I'll have the trans in place.
After gathering all of the parts for the 4 speed conversion on my '68 Chrysler 300, I started working on it about a week ago. The first step was to remove the factory heater box and all the associated A/C components because the heater core was bad. Since the price for a complete new Vintage Air system is the same as for just the heater core, that's the way I'm going. I'm using an under dash system (Summit P/N 11300-VUZ-A). I had a local shop CNC cut a plate to cover the openings in the firewall from the old heater.
I then had to troubleshoot some wiring issues and got the dash lights and AM radio working.
As for the transmission swap, I have the old trans pulled out, pedal assemblies swapped, and hole cut in the floor for the trans. I discovered that the crankshaft WAS drilled for a manual trans (440 TNT) and that a '73 - '75 A-body power brake booster assembly bolts right in with the manual brake pedals. You just have to make sure to get the firewall reinforcement plate along with the pedals.
Perhaps tomorrow I'll have the trans in place.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
See this people?
Now that's how it's done!!!!!
Im impressed.
Refresh my memory. What pedals are those out of?
Now that's how it's done!!!!!
Im impressed.
Refresh my memory. What pedals are those out of?
MTMoparfan65
Member
I managed to get two sets of pedals from a guy in Wyoming. One set was out of a '65 Newport, and the other out of a '67 Fury. I'm using the ones from the Newport because they have the dress up package.
The Horvaths
Young man with a cowboy hat
Awesome work.
MTMoparfan65
Member
Conversion Update
So I've been slowly chipping away at the 4 speed conversion and since the major work is done I'm posting an update. I'll start by saying that everything seems to be taking about three times longer than expected because it's not a straight-forward bolt-in conversion. Some of the major things I've had to do:
-Cut and reweld all the shift linkage because the overdrive trans came out of truck and the shifter is positioned significantly higher than for a B/C body.
-Since I'm using a hydraulic throwout bearing kit, I had to adapt (cut and weld) the factory linkage rod from the pedals to the master cylinder in the kit. The bearing also requires an "air gap" to the clutch diaphragm of .150" and the kit included a spacer that was .700" thick and shims that added up to .300". I needed .525" so I had a local machine shop use a lathe to turn down the spacer to .525".
-The trans, linkage, and the clutch assembly are all installed now, but the kit was missing a 90 deg fitting between the master cylinder and the braided line going to the throwout bearing. The company has sent me the missing fitting.
-Finally, I made a bracket to mount the hydraulic reservoir.
-Next on the fun-meter was the brakes. My car has power disk brakes so I used an A body power disk assembly that bolted right to the pedals. I made new brake lines to the prop valve because the ones on the car were poorly made and pretty skanky.
-Once the brake booster was in place, I realized that the linkage was way too long and I had to modify it. Turns out that 5/8" taken out of the brake rod, takes 4" out of the brake pedal height. Now the clutch and brake pedal are at the same height.
-The brakes are done except for the brake light switch. I'll have to figure out the mount because the factory switch is different than what came with the pedal assy. The reverse lights have been rewired because the automatic switch is located on the column, versus transmission with the manual.
What's left to make it driveable? Bleed the brakes & hydraulic clutch, plus weld the trans hump into place.
So I've been slowly chipping away at the 4 speed conversion and since the major work is done I'm posting an update. I'll start by saying that everything seems to be taking about three times longer than expected because it's not a straight-forward bolt-in conversion. Some of the major things I've had to do:
-Cut and reweld all the shift linkage because the overdrive trans came out of truck and the shifter is positioned significantly higher than for a B/C body.
-Since I'm using a hydraulic throwout bearing kit, I had to adapt (cut and weld) the factory linkage rod from the pedals to the master cylinder in the kit. The bearing also requires an "air gap" to the clutch diaphragm of .150" and the kit included a spacer that was .700" thick and shims that added up to .300". I needed .525" so I had a local machine shop use a lathe to turn down the spacer to .525".
-The trans, linkage, and the clutch assembly are all installed now, but the kit was missing a 90 deg fitting between the master cylinder and the braided line going to the throwout bearing. The company has sent me the missing fitting.
-Finally, I made a bracket to mount the hydraulic reservoir.
-Next on the fun-meter was the brakes. My car has power disk brakes so I used an A body power disk assembly that bolted right to the pedals. I made new brake lines to the prop valve because the ones on the car were poorly made and pretty skanky.
-Once the brake booster was in place, I realized that the linkage was way too long and I had to modify it. Turns out that 5/8" taken out of the brake rod, takes 4" out of the brake pedal height. Now the clutch and brake pedal are at the same height.
-The brakes are done except for the brake light switch. I'll have to figure out the mount because the factory switch is different than what came with the pedal assy. The reverse lights have been rewired because the automatic switch is located on the column, versus transmission with the manual.
What's left to make it driveable? Bleed the brakes & hydraulic clutch, plus weld the trans hump into place.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
Nice work MTMoparfan65! If it makes you feel any better, everything takes me 3x longer, even if it's straightforward!
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