New project: Allen Engine analyzers, restoration?

Video is best uploaded to YouTube. Then you can grab a link and paste in the thread.

I did find one of my manuals with the flow diagram. And mine is about the same state as yours.
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Hi, Polara 500 , I got mine Allen engine anylizer running last summer. I found a burned fuse and a few wires broken in the emission tester due to the switch nut beneath switch loose causing the switch to rotate and breaking the wires

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I need to get back working on mine. I decided to use the cabinet to learn rusty sheet metal repair. But I broke my leg in mid December and haven’t quite gotten back to it.
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Since this thread came back to the surface, I decided it was time to get busy. I cut out the spot welds and took a cut off wheel and cut out the rust. Now I am waiting for my Woodward 8” metal shear to arrive to cut out a straight replacement piece. Will have to try my hand at sheet metal welding. Will have to experiment with some scrap to make sure my welder is setup perfectly. Will try my hand at “body work”.
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Shear came in yesterday, of course I had to use it right away even before bolting it down. Task today is to mount it to a support base. Any way I had trouble following my line. You could line the scribe mark with the back jaw, but difficult to line up the front. For longer cuts it is important to start straight. Once you are cutting in a direction, it is difficult to correct.
After messing up the first piece, I decided I needed a straight edge, or guide on the front of the jaw to get proper alignment.
I need something a little more permanent, but I have a small magnetic laser that I was able to mount that gave me alignment to the front jaws. I have a couple other ideas for a more permanent guide. (On the other hand if I would have had the shear properly mounted I may have been able to line it up more easily.). So far I like it.

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Getting ready to weld my new piece in. Need to practice on a couple of pieces to make sure my welder is set up correctly. I think it is still set up for thicker material.

Anyway I have a couple of questions for some of the more experienced like @azblackhemi and @OldWarHorse300 and many others when butt welding two panels together. I am using 22 gauge, and have about 1/16 to 1/8” gap. I understand the key is to do many small welds to avoid over heating and warping. And keep filling in.
The question I have is whether or not I should use some sort of heat sink backer behind each weld to help prevent the weld from blowing out or to keep the back side smooth?
Any advice will be considered. I figured this cabinet is a good practice project to start on.

Thanks

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These are what I have seen. Do they help? Are they necessary?
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I have my welder set up with .023 wire. Getting close to the right setting. Been doing some video watching, so may try a couple of different settings. Also on this thin of metal I think I need to minimize my gap. I need more practice material.
 
Smash a piece of copper pipe flat if you want to try it.

Lot's cheaper and disposable. Add a handle if you want.
Thanks Big John. A couple pieces of scrap and an anvil did the trick.

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Going to try and finish the cabinet repair today. Stitch welding on 22 gauge sheet steel is a learning experience. Of course it didn’t help that I ran out of gas for my mig welder somewhere in the process. With the short little bursts I didn’t notice it right away. I still have a hell of a time seeing the line through my welding helmet but am getting better with proper lighting.
Next up, I have a couple more pin holes to fill in.
Then I need to work on heat shrinking to get rid of the oil canning. I found a couple of good videos explaining the process (how and why it works), so will try it.

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