new project

well still can't get off remaining drum wow going to hit from another angle next week

You are removing the front hub as well at the same time right?
The original hubs were pressed to the drum so you have no choice but to remove both at the same time...
 
You are removing the front hub as well at the same time right?
The original hubs were pressed to the drum so you have no choice but to remove both at the same time...
i will look at that again the other side came
You have to scout out a power brake pedal assembly as well.
for the same year 65 fury or 67 fury let me know
 
there are a few ways to upgrade.
I stayed with the drum brakes and bought a Power booster with a dual pot M/C for a 1967 setup and a proportioning valve for the same year
All 1967
You have to scout out a power brake pedal assembly as well.
is it possible to alter the pedal i have now somehow to work with the power setup
 
is it possible to alter the pedal i have now somehow to work with the power setup
The hole for the pushrod is in a different location so it would be difficult unless you have specs on both pedals
A welder to weld the original hole then drill a new pin location
This is all speculation as I have not heard of anyone actually doing this
 
The hole for the pushrod is in a different location so it would be difficult unless you have specs on both pedals
A welder to weld the original hole then drill a new pin location
This is all speculation as I have not heard of anyone actually doing this
maybe someone here can give me that info i work at a machine shop anything is possible
 
You are removing the front hub as well at the same time right?
The original hubs were pressed to the drum so you have no choice but to remove both at the same time...
I'm sorry to keep asking so much here but this drum is i mean wow removed the bearing nut drilled out the anchor pins for the brakes and still no removal.the adjuster is frozen i tried heat to just can't get this off it appears the brakes are either stuck up against the drum because i can't turn the assembly or the bearing is stuck in the back but the car moved before any other ideas
 
The hole for the pushrod is in a different location so it would be difficult unless you have specs on both pedals
A welder to weld the original hole then drill a new pin location
This is all speculation as I have not heard of anyone actually doing this
The pivot point on the bracket for the pedal is different also.
You have to do a quite of bit of work refabbing that bracket.
 
well what do you know the last drum is off all brake parts off and putting wheels back on tommorow drop the tires to the ground then do some motor work.thank you to all who have helped so far.the last drum came off with the hub the driver side came off easy without the hub.the new drums are different from stock
 
You are removing the front hub as well at the same time right?
The original hubs were pressed to the drum so you have no choice but to remove both at the same time...
came off as 1 piece finally if i get two new drums can it work like the driver side where the drum came off easy and the hub stayed in place thanks for the extra help
 
came off as 1 piece finally if i get two new drums can it work like the driver side where the drum came off easy and the hub stayed in place thanks for the extra help

Yes the replacement drums are designed that way...
 
The pivot point on the bracket for the pedal is different also.
You have to do a quite of bit of work refabbing that bracket.
ok i was able to locate a pedal assembly for the power option for my car its 225 with shipping is this a good deal or should i search else where.this is the whole assembly both pedals plus brakes
 
ok i was able to locate a pedal assembly for the power option for my car its 225 with shipping is this a good deal or should i search else where.this is the whole assembly both pedals plus brakes

It's not a bargain but not out of the question...
 
the fury is alive and running it was two back ports on the head that were blocked blocking oil from draining backing into block and blowing oil out the exhaust filling the valve cover on one side.one side has no valve train noise at all the passenger side has not loud valve train noise but is there a reason why it would have noise the car has been sitting for 2 to 3 years i put in sae 30 weight oil brand delo oil and a mopar brand filter .do any of you guys believe in the marvel mystery oil stuff.i have the 383 motor
 
Welcome. At $2300 I think you've got a home run already. Engine problems can always be fixed. Not likely but worse case scenario, even if you have to transplant another 318 poly, they're not wildly expensive. Don't let anyone give you **** about the 318, they were used forever for a reason.
thanks i got my 383 going after some efforts i ran it twice first time i noticed the drain holes were plugged in the back two heads filling up the valve cover and coming out the exhaust.the second run after a couple days saw a bunch more smoke that took a while for it to clear say about 5 minutes or so but it never really went away totally.after revving the engine for about a minute the smoke came back not as bad but it was there any where to look for a way to clean up the smoke or make it stop.is it valve seals or is it rings need a starting place or an avenue to look for i am presently putting in all new brake parts and hopefully taking it for a ride.to see if she is a keeper.
 
can you point me in a direction of an engine rebuild kit for my 65 fury 3 383 i was told it was an rb engine but not sure

Well there are a number of rebuild kits out there
I haven't been in the markets for rebuilding for many years so I'm really not one to ask honestly for value of parts
There are many options though
Number one thing is to find an honest rebuilder for your 383
There are too many fly by night operators and you can easily lose your shirt on a junk rebuild

This is why most go off recommendations from other nearby members or piece it together themselves
Check the engine forum here for advice
 
Well there are a number of rebuild kits out there
I haven't been in the markets for rebuilding for many years so I'm really not one to ask honestly for value of parts
There are many options though
Number one thing is to find an honest rebuilder for your 383
There are too many fly by night operators and you can easily lose your shirt on a junk rebuild

This is why most go off recommendations from other nearby members or piece it together themselves
Check the engine forum here for advice
thanks
 
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