New to me 78 NYB on its way but please Don't tell my wife

What a week! Got a chance to escape to the shop for (I swear) 30 min.
I wanted to run the car through a good heat cycle, check the A/C and look at a miss that has been developing.

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A/C is freezing cold and pouring out of the vents well. Checked for freon loss and saw no bubbles in the site glass of the dryer at low idle. Had to take my hand off the return line as it was just to cold.... Looks to be working ok....

New fan clutch engaged at about minute 20.

Carb work tomorrow as I wait for touch ups to dry....
 
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PLEASE, if you ever are taking US27 to go somewhere, you HAVE to stop in Sebring. Just swing onto Sun n Lake Blvd off of 27.
 
Ok Stan.... the hood insulation story. Just for you....

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Original hood insulation pads. Forty years of crib about to say goodbye.

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Attaching clips come out easy enough. Pull and a little twisting. It helps if you groan a little too.

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I should have put a drop cloth over the engine. The pads were so filthy they we literally dropping clods oh dirt and dried grease.

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The original pads were die cut and formed for a clean tight fit. I guess I could have steam cleaned them...but no.....

I’ve actually done that before and this ain’t no Maserati. New aftermarket ones will do just fine.

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Underside of hood. Was also not very clean. Time for some.....

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Prepsall .... easy on paint and tough on baked and caked grease and oil.

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REM is the manufacturer. They include all the replacement clips. New clips are a dead match for the originals. I was afraid I’d have to straighten the new pads out as they were wrapped kind of tight to fit in the shipping box. But they sprung out of the bag just as you see them here.

They also have two sides. A black side with a tighter compressed fiberglass mat; and a fuzzy side with open layers fiberglass.

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The die cut pads still have the plugs which is a bit of a pain and itchy to get them all out.

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All in but a little wrinkled.
I decided to mount them with the black side toward the engine. Wrinkles would not be visible had I put them in the other way.

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See what I mean... a little wrinkled. Hopefully the material releases a bit after a few heat cycles. And..... Speaking of heat cycles....
 
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I did the pad swap after I rebuilt the carb ...... again.

Somehow I got one mother of a crunchy rust ball at the drivers side fuel inlet at the air horn that was interfering with the float valve seat as it was letting go. That miss was that side flooding it seems.

This time I took all the time in the world (3 hours). I cleaned it really well and took my time assembling it. Checked everything again... choke pull off - check, vacuum/solenoid vent - check on both the vacuum and electrical operation. Cleaned the oxides off the brass main jet needles.

Put it all back together carefully. Reinstalled it carefully. Started the car. Ran beautifully. But as soon as I blipped the gas to drop the fast idle down a bit, the choke went to full open and the engine started missing and popping and just running lean foul.

Closed the choke manually and it all evened out. Hmm too lean. Reset the idle screws to exactly as I had always done on my other cars 3.5 turns out from soft seat... and..... still ****. Started turning the idle screws till the choke plate movement would have little effect. It took one and a half full turns. Before she would idle correctly. But the choke plate was still full open. And the engine was far from warmed up.

Going back to the book to check the choke operation specs. Somethings up.

Decided to drive it to get a coke and it ran like ****.... still not warmed up yet. Got the Coca Cola and when I came back it was running like glass after the little bit of heat soak.

Hmmmmm. Choke or something else. Will check the specs on the lean burn for warm up. I swear it feels and acts like the timing is off.
 
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Ok boys...I did some reading and will check the idle enrichment contraption for leaks and operation. I did put a new diaphram in the thing during the rebuild.... again... So it should be good. FSM outlines check for it.

FSM also outlines operation of the Lean Burn system relative to temp. Need to check Temp sensor as to operation. Will need to make up a quick jumper to test that as well because it affects timing.

One thing I’ve learned is that electronic systems either work perfectly or they don’t at all. But a bad input can throw the system off. Saw a bunch of YouTube videos about it I found on another thread. This place is great!

Need an assistant to check the vacuum under load. Yesterday I checked it with just the A/C going and it was a fairly steady 17”.
Wish I had one if you guys nearby to help.

One more thing I noticed was that the A/C would turn off under load. Also, the parking brake release doesn’t seem to have enough pull to release. It is working, but not getting that last bit of movement to actually release the mechanism. It’s got a big vacuum line to it.

Low vacuum under load.

Spritzed some carb cleaner at the vacuum take off on the manifold to check for leaks. Found none.

I disconnected and checked the vacuum to the ATC accumulator (trans in park and engine stable idle, engine fully warmed up and running smoothly) and the system stayed on for about a minute....and the accumulator wasn’t leaking at all.

Disconnected the purple line off the loaded accumulator and the system goes off right away.

Hmmmm.

Choke or booster leak/bad check valve at booster? Leak at the brake release vacuum motor?

I’ve had that happen before... but before I mess with the choke, I’ve got to run down all the vacuum in the system for leaks.

Don’t worry... I’ll get it. It’s just a puzzle. And.... I love puzzles. Won’t stop until I get the whole car running like I got the AutoTemp II to work.... which is pretty damned good!
 
Just put in the %$#@ing Gee Dee Edelbrock fer krisesakes...:BangHead:
:lol:

I can't tell you how long I dicked around with the TQ.
But it's like that dresser in the Three Stooges. You push in one drawer, another pops out. You push in that drawer and...:mob:
 
Thats
Just put in the %$#@ing Gee Dee Edelbrock fer krisesakes...:BangHead:
:lol:

I can't tell you how long I dicked around with the TQ.
But it's like that dresser in the Three Stooges. You push in one drawer, another pops out. You push in that drawer and...:mob:
Too easy. Besides, my problem may not be the TQ at all.

In case you forgot, you were the one that helped me get the TQ working in the T&C..,
 
Went in today and started to look for where a vacuum leak might be. Since the auto parking brake release wasn’t quite working I started with that.

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Here is my handheld vacuum guage and pump connected to the line that feeds the parking brake release switch on the steering column. Transmission was in park so it should have held some vacuum off or least given some resistance. No discernible vacuum accumulation. No resistance. Sucked on it and it was like drawing on an unlit Churchill cigar. It’s a big line and I gave it several good pumps but it just wasn’t going to hold vacuum at all.

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Went down to plug the line to make sure it was the switch and not the line.

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No problem with the main line to the engine that feeds the switch. Need new switch.

Next came the line to the vacuum motor. No vacuum building at all... need a new switch and motor.

Put a plug in the line down by the switch. Need to start sourcing switch and vacuum motor. Project for another day.

Started the engine to check if this was the problem ..... and all smooth. Drove the car a bit and the A/C shut off problem went away; even under part throttle acceleration up to 60.



The a/c idler bearing has gotten worse and will be replaced tomorrow. I had greased it and it had gotten better (almost silent) but now it’s worse than before.

As soon as the engine reached operating temp and the choke came off, the stumble returned but lt was noticeably less pronounced.

Ok, need to set choke but it has to be dead cold to start the process and get it right.

Meantime, I figured I would give the vinyl roof a good cleaning. Soap and water were just not cutting through the grime of 40 years.

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Took out my Wesley’s Bleach White to cut through the grime and oxidized vinyl. It made a difference but I would never recommend anyone do the same. It is great on white walls but contains a weak acid and strong surfactant that works great on tires but can damage anodized metal if not used very carefully and removed quickly. To minimize this I washed and left the mild soap on before using it on the wet, soapy top. The difference was impressive on the first pass. The second pass made an almost equal difference. The picture is actually of the second pass.

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After careful washing a second time with soap and water. The difference was impressive. The top and paint are almost the same color. I dare not do it again but it was worth the effort I think. I dried the top and dressed it with some Armorall vinyl dressing and cleaner.

Usually the cleaner/dressing comes away with a little dirt but not this time.

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Detail view of same color top and paint... almost.

Now if I only had some NOS Brougham emblems....

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view of top from behind.

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View of top from front... notice the worlds tallest antenna. That itself was a project that I didn’t document but would have been worth it if I had.

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I even made a little time to hand polish the front bumper. Still need to raise it as far as I can.

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Oh and here are the dash lights working.

Would have done more but I had to go look at a car with a friend. I’m his go to guy for cars for some reason. Like throwing candy in front of child.... I just can’t say no.
 
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Went in and started to look for where a vacuum leak might be. Since the auto parking brake release wasn’t quite working I started with that.

View attachment 183750
Here is my handheld vacuum guage and pump connected to the line that feeds the parking brake release switch on the steering column. Transmission was in park so it should have held some vacuum off at least given some resistance. No discernible vacuum accumulation. No resistance. Sucked on it and it was like drawing on an unlit Churchill cigar. It’s a big line and I gabe it several good pumps but it just wasn’t going to hold vacuum at all.

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Went down to plug the line to make sure it was the switch and not the line.

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No problem with the main line to the engine that feeds the switch. Need new switch.

Next game the line to the vacuum motor. No vacuum building at all... need a new switch and motor.

Started the engine and all smooth. Drove the car a bit and the A/C and the shut off system problem went away; even under part throttle acceleration up to 60.

As soon as it reached operating temp and the choke came off, the stumble returned but lt was noticeably less pronounced.

Ok, need to set choke but it has to be dead cold to start the process and get it right.

Meantime, I figured I would give the vinyl roof a good cleaning. Soap and water were just not cutting through the grime of 40 years.

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LED light bulbs for the dash? I like the brightness of whatever bulbs used. What’s the secret?
 
Javier, I can't find the right words to express how thankful I am that you chased down and isolated the vacuum leaks rather than try to tune the engine around them... This is a "Role Model" thread. :thankyou::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
LED light bulbs for the dash? I like the brightness of whatever bulbs used. What’s the secret?

That's what it looks like with all the 194 dash bulbs working at the same time. I had one light bulb barely illuminating and replaced them all and the dash looks and lights up like a brand new car again.
 
Ok Stan.... the hood insulation story. Just for you....

View attachment 183497
Original hood insulation pads. Forty years of crib about to say goodbye.

View attachment 183498
Attaching clips come out easy enough. Pull and a little twisting. It helps if you groan a little too.

View attachment 183499
I should have put a drop cloth over the engine. The pads were so filthy they we literally dropping clods oh dirt and dried grease.

View attachment 183500
The original pads were die cut and formed for a clean tight fit. I guess I could have steam cleaned them...but no.....

I’ve actually done that before and this ain’t no Maserati. New aftermarket ones will do just fine.

View attachment 183501
Underside of hood. Was also not very clean. Time for some.....

View attachment 183502
Prepsall .... easy on paint and tough on baked and caked grease and oil.

View attachment 183503
REM is the manufacturer. They include all the replacement clips. New clips are a dead match for the originals. I was afraid I’d have to straighten the new pads out as they were wrapped kind of tight to fit in the shipping box. But they sprung out of the bag just as you see them here.

They also have two sides. A black side with a tighter compressed fiberglass mat; and a fuzzy side with open layers fiberglass.

View attachment 183504
The die cut pads still have the plugs which is a bit of a pain and itchy to get them all out.

View attachment 183505
All in but a little wrinkled.
I decided to mount them with the black side toward the engine. Wrinkles would not be visible had I put them in the other way.

View attachment 183506
See what I mean... a little wrinkled. Hopefully the material releases a bit after a few heat cycles. And..... Speaking of heat cycles....

I have a new dash pad from them too and need to put it on when I replace the engine.
 
Javier, I can't find the right words to express how thankful I am that you chased down and isolated the vacuum leaks rather than try to tune the engine around them... This is a "Role Model" thread. :thankyou::thumbsup::thumbsup:
Too many times doing the opposite finally taught me how to do it right.

Also I did a “base line” tune up early on. So I had confidence that I needed to start with the little dumb things first. Having had all new plugs and wires also told me to look elsewhere. The inoperative brake release told me where to start.

I also checked that the idle enrichment circuit and the the bowl vent were holding vacuum and working as designed. I also took the choke off and tested the heater to make sure it wasn’t also failed. All were fine.

I had a chance to clean all the plugs just before I put the latest freon charge into the A/C. But, because I couldn’t get it to a lift, I didn’t (didn’t really even try to) clean out plugs 5 and 7.... which happened to have probably been the most fouled by the vacuum leak which was causing the misfire. That and short cycling the engine at the shop.

Once I plugged the vacuum leak I was able to drive off the miss as the better charge in those cylinders “burned off” the fouling. Filled it up with premium gas, gunned it a few times to upen the secondaries and drove it up to 69 in second also helped... They used to call this an “Italian tune up” and when you’re dealing with a couple of fouled plugs, the technique still works. Though, it probably spelled the death of the idler pulley bearing...lol!
 
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I'm not too impressed with the hood mat. I'll skip that part until I see a better one.
Let me know if you find a better one but for now it was the best thing I could do. The original, besides being filthy, was all cut up around the air cleaner..... I was just trying to avoid it coming down all by itself.
 
Next up, and probably last for the engine, set the choke. Then comes the cleaning... interior will be quite the chore.
 
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