NYB Emblem Restoration

[Nick C]

Need some help. I'm looking to restore the 4 Brougham hubcap emblems on my 76 NYB. I have found a burgundy paint that will match with the original but what can I use for the overlay filler on the crest? Would clear epoxy work or what would you recommend?

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Pics of your hubcaps emblems as they are now and of perhaps an NOS emblem would help.

 

[Nick C]

Pics of your hubcaps emblems as they are now and of perhaps an NOS emblem would help.

I will get one tonight and post it tomorrow.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Cool!

 

[bigmoparjeff]

Not sure if you will be able to find a UV stable epoxy. If you can, that should work fine.

A second choice might be one of the two part plastics used for making new light lenses.

Jeff

 

[Nick C]

Not sure if you will be able to find a UV stable epoxy. If you can, that should work fine.

A second choice might be one of the two part plastics used for making new light lenses.

Jeff

Thanks for the info. I'm not familiar with the plastic you suggested. Is there a suggested product name?

 

[bigmoparjeff]

Should be some info on products in here:

My lens making thread.

 

[73Coupe]

I used a clear pourable epoxy to restore the emblems on my NYB. After two years in the sun, its surface discolored and turned brown. If you park your car indoors, it'll probably be fine...not sure what else would work. The original plastic didn't hold up either.....

 

[Nick C]

Here are the Pics. There is a plastic and plexiglass place around the corner from my house. After I add the burgundy paint I will see what they can do.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

I'd use Testor's model paints for that.

 

[Robert Saigh]

Nice clean Hubcap!! Ya... model paint (testors) and a couple of fine brushes.

 

[Nick C]

I got around to painting the Emblems on the Hub caps yesterday.

Taped them off and took them outside for painting.

Here is the painted Emblem.

To compare the color I used a NOS Roof Emblem that I have. Two different Dupli-Color red paints were used to come as close a possible to the original red. (2 coats of the lighter red followed by 1 of the darker red then a clear gloss.) The match was close enough to satisfy me.

I'm just going to leave them painted but I did possibly find a suitable resin for a filler. It is called Crystal Clear. The 200 was suggested to me but I did not think that the heat defection was enough at 120 degrees. The 220 has a heat deflection of 176 degrees; however, in addition to possibly needing a vacuum pot to remove the air bubbles, it also required 4 hours of baking at 220 to fully cure.

Here is the Technical on it.

If anyone is interested here is the web address https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/crystal-clear/ They also have how to step-by-step videos.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

That looks great!!

 

[1978 NYB]

Pretty nice work!

 

[live4theking]

Looks good to me.

 

[73Coupe]

I got around to painting the Emblems on the Hub caps yesterday.

Taped them off and took them outside for painting.

View attachment 395174View attachment 395175

Here is the painted Emblem.

View attachment 395190

To compare the color I used a NOS Roof Emblem that I have. Two different Dupli-Color red paints were used to come as close a possible to the original red. (2 coats of the lighter red followed by 1 of the darker red then a clear gloss.) The match was close enough to satisfy me.

View attachment 395177

I'm just going to leave them painted but I did possibly find a suitable resin for a filler. It is called Crystal Clear. The 200 was suggested to me but I did not think that the heat defection was enough at 120 degrees. The 220 has a heat deflection of 176 degrees; however, in addition to possibly needing a vacuum pot to remove the air bubbles, it also required 4 hours of baking at 220 to fully cure.

Here is the Technical on it.

View attachment 395179

If anyone is interested here is the web address https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/crystal-clear/ They also have how to step-by-step videos.

View attachment 395176

Wow, looks great. Thanks for the info on the Crystal Clear, that looks like a legitimate product. I had used just the low-end clear epoxy called Enviro-tex lite "Pour-On" that I got at the hardware store.

The website says that the 202 is for 1/16" to 1/2", while the others are for thicker castings.

And they have a tutorial on how to cast a steering wheel: How To Make a Custom Steering Wheel: Part 2, Resin Casting

Looks like lots of applications for our unobtanium parts here.....maybe even the elusive washer bottle?

 

[Nick C]

Wow, looks great. Thanks for the info on the Crystal Clear, that looks like a legitimate product. I had used just the low-end clear epoxy called Enviro-tex lite "Pour-On" that I got at the hardware store.

The website says that the 202 is for 1/16" to 1/2", while the others are for thicker castings.

And they have a tutorial on how to cast a steering wheel: How To Make a Custom Steering Wheel: Part 2, Resin Casting

Looks like lots of applications for our unobtanium parts here.....maybe even the elusive washer bottle?

Glad to know it was helpful. I'm now thinking about using it on the Emblems. I just don't like leaving something unfinished. They recommended the 200 because of the 20 min set-up time instead of the 202 that has a 5-9 min set-up. They also mentioned that since I'm only doing emblems (and not castings or molds) that I could run a torch over the top quickly and should work out any air pockets/bubbles. If I move ahead with it I will post the results.

 

[live4theking]

Glad to know it was helpful. I'm now thinking about using it on the Emblems. I just don't like leaving something unfinished. They recommended the 200 because of the 20 min set-up time instead of the 202 that has a 5-9 min set-up. They also mentioned that since I'm only doing emblems (and not castings or molds) that I could run a torch over the top quickly and should work out any air pockets/bubbles. If I move ahead with it I will post the results.

What about a heat gun?

 

[HWYCRZR]

A UV stable clear coat may also help protect and preserve the paint.
Did the hubcaps actually get the resin plastic? Or did they leave it painted? Thus the fading.

 

[Robert Saigh]

Man that's nice!! They're so nice I'd put them up on the shelf and just look at 'em....Really! Too nice to put back on the car LOL!