Proper Vinyl Top Replacement Advice Needed - 1973 Newport Custom

[The_Swoose]

Hello all,

Just picked up a 73 Newport 4 Door Hard Top in very good condition overall. Unfortunately, it does have 3 fairly small spots of the dreaded vinyl bubbles.

Some time this year I'd like to have the vinyl replaced. I do not want a small problem to become a large problem!

1. Do you have any advice on what to look for and ask for with a body shop? I'm located in Western NC near Arden if that helps. I want to ensure the job is done properly so rust won't be a significant future concern.

2. What would be your optimal procedure for a proper prep job? I see a lot of differing opinions on prep work. I certainly do not want a bondo-special. Anything I should ask for in specific?

3. Any recommendations on a source for matching reproduction vinyl? Or would you let the body shop decide that? I see a couple places that offer reproductions:

Factory Style Full Landau Top | Topsonline.com

v2.topsonline.com

4. Do you have any regrets about getting your vinyl top re-done?

5. Is it possible to peel up the existing vinyl to stop the rust? I assume this is a solid NO. As much as I love having all original, I love not having any rust holes.

6. I am considering learning to do it myself. For the DIY crowd, any procedures or tutorials that you really liked?

7. Any advice on what I should be doing to prevent this from getting worse before I have a chance to get it re-done?

In a nutshell, if you were to do it all over again how would you go about it?

I appreciate the tips!

 

[CBODY67]

What you have is the Chrysler Boar Grain vinyl top in darker green. That is important as there are other grains out there, usually GM-use grains.

Remove the top and get the top painted. Only the edges were painted from the factory, so what's under there is most likely primer only. Get a FULL paint job with appropriate rust repair done. Let the paint cure a good while before putting the vinyl back on. Might get it painted to match the vinyl top color, for good measure, in current OEM-style acrylic enamel basecoat/clearcoat.

On my '70 Dodge Monaco Brougham 4dr ht, only minor blending was done where the quarter panel meets the top panel, so expect to have the body shop put the finishing operations in those areas, too! Plus pay attention to the similar area on the A-pillars, too. Many "hidden things" can be hiding under that vinyl roof covering! Seems like there are some older threads in here on how quality control in the factory body shop area became evident (as to fitment) when the vinyl roofs were removed? As to how the A-pillars might not have been joined exactly the same on each side, or on my Monaco, the difference in the width of the drip rail moldings from the edge of the roof panel.

All of the cars with sloping back glasses always accumulated water on the bottom corners. GMs were worse, it seems, or they didn't get good paint coverage there. 3M came out with their "AlumaLead" product just for such repairs. Make sure there are not rust spots above those lower corners, too.

BEFORE you begin, measure the width of the two ribs in the top vinyl, plus the width between them. Might be a minor issue, BUT can affect how things look when done, as to accuracy and such.

ONE thing to be concerned with is the body sealer in the drip rail area. PLUS getting the drip rail moldings off without "marking/bending" them, as they snap onto the drip rail itself. Might end up digging that stuff out, then replacing the top, and reapplying it with a suitable spray gun. Might check any of the Fuselage Cars' factory service manuals at www.mymopar.com. Or even some of them prior to your model year. I know the '66 Chrysler manual details application of the sealer in this area, so I suspect the later ones will too.

In some cases, when vinyl tops were added after production, they glued the vinyl on, trimmed the edges, and put a silicone-based sealer in the drip rails to seal things up. IF that ends up what is done, chose a black-ish color for best looks.

As to vinyl fabric sourcing, there are several vendors many have found online. Most seem to only have GM-oriented vinyls rather than the lower-production volume Chrysler grain fabrics, by observation. Might start with Legendary or YearONE, or somebody in the B-body realm of things for getting the correct grain. I mention that as the investment value of B-bodies and E-bodies is much greater than a C-body ever will, BUT they all used the same grain vinyls, just cut for a different size/shape roof panel. Perhaps they can cut one for you with a pattern you supply, with pictures?

The original vinyl was "Cloth Back" and had a thicker base and vinyl coating on top of that fabric. Since the middle-1970s or so, all that has been available for replacement is termed "gauze back", with a thinner base and also a bit thinner vinyl on top of it. Once installed, they look 95% the same. NOS vinyl roof items can be found, possibly, in the OEM Chrysler box, repeat BOX. They used to cost about $400.00 USD + when I saw them at Mopar Nats in the 1990s. Being in a box means the fabric is folded, which can cause issues in itself. Especially if it might be NOS and has been folded for decades! The original vinyl was on a wide sheet roll, by comparison.

The back glass moldings will be attached with normal windshield molding retainers. The lower molding between the doors could well be bent-wire spring clips with a tab of rubber sealing them against the body. With time, those seals can dry and deteriorate, so new ones will be needed. Access from the inside of the trunk will probably be needed, too. So having the trunk "vacant-ized" of the spare tire, jack, and other things will be needed. Once you find out what is needed, a supplier as AuVeCo can be a source (as it was when the cars were built). The chosen body shop might have their own source for such, too.

What I've mentioned is not a lot different than just getting the top repainted, BUT a lot of other things can be in the offing from the other things related to vinyl tops being replaced. It would be THOSE areas where extra care and sourcing can become important, considering the age of the vehicle (AND the fact few of the shop's employees are older than the car itself). Different build techniques and methods back then, by comparison.

To get things "done right", it's not going to be inexpensive. Finding a shop can be key as this is a different deal than just getting a panel painted. Make your check list and shop around. IF you should get an estimate which is "over the top" compared to others, that can mean they do not want the job. Not going to be a quick job to do and/or they might not have the expertise to do it, either. As flaky as it might be, you could well end up at a higher-end restoration shop, too. You'll also probably need to arrange for some sort of alternate transportation for a few weeks. That part might be the easiest part of the whole situation!

I hope this might give you a "worst case scenario" of what might seem like an otherwise simple thing to get done, in current times. The other thing is that "car season" is coming online, so you can network with people at cruise-ins to get their feedback on local/regional places that can do the job, to talk to the shops they mention, in your shopping activities.

Take care,
CBODY67

 

[Big_John]

Hello all,

Just picked up a 73 Newport 4 Door Hard Top in very good condition overall. Unfortunately, it does have 3 fairly small spots of the dreaded vinyl bubbles.

Some time this year I'd like to have the vinyl replaced. I do not want a small problem to become a large problem!

1. Do you have any advice on what to look for and ask for with a body shop? I'm located in Western NC near Arden if that helps. I want to ensure the job is done properly so rust won't be a significant future concern.

2. What would be your optimal procedure for a proper prep job? I see a lot of differing opinions on prep work. I certainly do not want a bondo-special. Anything I should ask for in specific?

3. Any recommendations on a source for matching reproduction vinyl? Or would you let the body shop decide that? I see a couple places that offer reproductions:

http://[URL]https://v2.topsonline.c...-Door-Sedan/b-factory-style-b-full-landau-top

[/URL]

4. Do you have any regrets about getting your vinyl top re-done?

5. Is it possible to peel up the existing vinyl to stop the rust? I assume this is a solid NO. As much as I love having all original, I love not having any rust holes.

6. I am considering learning to do it myself. For the DIY crowd, any procedures or tutorials that you really liked?

7. Any advice on what I should be doing to prevent this from getting worse before I have a chance to get it re-done?

In a nutshell, if you were to do it all over again how would you go about it?

I appreciate the tips!

View attachment 645494

View attachment 645495

View attachment 645496

I have never done this myself, but have read of other's adventures with vinyl tops.

First, I would source the top myself. Get a sample from a few vendors before doing anything. A body shop is very likely going to grab the first one they find in a Google search. Time is money for them so they aren't going to try to match grains etc. They want the car in and out asap. You'll be happier with the outcome and it will probably be cheaper too.

My second piece of advice is that the rust under that vinyl will be worse than you think. Whatever you figure, double or triple it. Look for a body shop that can handle rust repairs correctly as it will be more than sand, prime and shoot.

 

[ayilar]

All good advice above. I went through a similar restoration with Buttercup, my 1972 NYB. The process is documented in this thread:

Meet Buttercup, a 1972 New Yorker Brougham 2-door Hardtop

I bought the vinyl top from SMS -- and it was a perfect fit. My experience was better than that of @73Coupe, whose top was the same (his was a 1973, mine was a 1972, but the greenhouse is the same). However, he had to grant SMS three (3!) attempts to get it right. He was kind enough to share his drawings with exact measurements with me, I sent them to SMS with a note, and SMS got mine right the first time around -- exact material, perfect stitching, the works!

@71Polara383 did the rust repair around the rear window and the painting that @CBODY67 recommended, and he put photos in the above Buttercup thread. @david hill helped me with installing the vinyl top, at a shop that he had recommended. Again, info in. the above thread.

Good luck!

 

[The_Swoose]

What you have is the Chrysler Boar Grain vinyl top in darker green. That is important as there are other grains out there, usually GM-use grains.

Remove the top and get the top painted. Only the edges were painted from the factory, so what's under there is most likely primer only. Get a FULL paint job with appropriate rust repair done. Let the paint cure a good while before putting the vinyl back on. Might get it painted to match the vinyl top color, for good measure, in current OEM-style acrylic enamel basecoat/clearcoat.

On my '70 Dodge Monaco Brougham 4dr ht, only minor blending was done where the quarter panel meets the top panel, so expect to have the body shop put the finishing operations in those areas, too! Plus pay attention to the similar area on the A-pillars, too. Many "hidden things" can be hiding under that vinyl roof covering! Seems like there are some older threads in here on how quality control in the factory body shop area became evident (as to fitment) when the vinyl roofs were removed? As to how the A-pillars might not have been joined exactly the same on each side, or on my Monaco, the difference in the width of the drip rail moldings from the edge of the roof panel.

All of the cars with sloping back glasses always accumulated water on the bottom corners. GMs were worse, it seems, or they didn't get good paint coverage there. 3M came out with their "AlumaLead" product just for such repairs. Make sure there are not rust spots above those lower corners, too.

BEFORE you begin, measure the width of the two ribs in the top vinyl, plus the width between them. Might be a minor issue, BUT can affect how things look when done, as to accuracy and such.

ONE thing to be concerned with is the body sealer in the drip rail area. PLUS getting the drip rail moldings off without "marking/bending" them, as they snap onto the drip rail itself. Might end up digging that stuff out, then replacing the top, and reapplying it with a suitable spray gun. Might check any of the Fuselage Cars' factory service manuals at www.mymopar.com. Or even some of them prior to your model year. I know the '66 Chrysler manual details application of the sealer in this area, so I suspect the later ones will too.

In some cases, when vinyl tops were added after production, they glued the vinyl on, trimmed the edges, and put a silicone-based sealer in the drip rails to seal things up. IF that ends up what is done, chose a black-ish color for best looks.

As to vinyl fabric sourcing, there are several vendors many have found online. Most seem to only have GM-oriented vinyls rather than the lower-production volume Chrysler grain fabrics, by observation. Might start with Legendary or YearONE, or somebody in the B-body realm of things for getting the correct grain. I mention that as the investment value of B-bodies and E-bodies is much greater than a C-body ever will, BUT they all used the same grain vinyls, just cut for a different size/shape roof panel. Perhaps they can cut one for you with a pattern you supply, with pictures?

The original vinyl was "Cloth Back" and had a thicker base and vinyl coating on top of that fabric. Since the middle-1970s or so, all that has been available for replacement is termed "gauze back", with a thinner base and also a bit thinner vinyl on top of it. Once installed, they look 95% the same. NOS vinyl roof items can be found, possibly, in the OEM Chrysler box, repeat BOX. They used to cost about $400.00 USD + when I saw them at Mopar Nats in the 1990s. Being in a box means the fabric is folded, which can cause issues in itself. Especially if it might be NOS and has been folded for decades! The original vinyl was on a wide sheet roll, by comparison.

The back glass moldings will be attached with normal windshield molding retainers. The lower molding between the doors could well be bent-wire spring clips with a tab of rubber sealing them against the body. With time, those seals can dry and deteriorate, so new ones will be needed. Access from the inside of the trunk will probably be needed, too. So having the trunk "vacant-ized" of the spare tire, jack, and other things will be needed. Once you find out what is needed, a supplier as AuVeCo can be a source (as it was when the cars were built). The chosen body shop might have their own source for such, too.

What I've mentioned is not a lot different than just getting the top repainted, BUT a lot of other things can be in the offing from the other things related to vinyl tops being replaced. It would be THOSE areas where extra care and sourcing can become important, considering the age of the vehicle (AND the fact few of the shop's employees are older than the car itself). Different build techniques and methods back then, by comparison.

To get things "done right", it's not going to be inexpensive. Finding a shop can be key as this is a different deal than just getting a panel painted. Make your check list and shop around. IF you should get an estimate which is "over the top" compared to others, that can mean they do not want the job. Not going to be a quick job to do and/or they might not have the expertise to do it, either. As flaky as it might be, you could well end up at a higher-end restoration shop, too. You'll also probably need to arrange for some sort of alternate transportation for a few weeks. That part might be the easiest part of the whole situation!

I hope this might give you a "worst case scenario" of what might seem like an otherwise simple thing to get done, in current times. The other thing is that "car season" is coming online, so you can network with people at cruise-ins to get their feedback on local/regional places that can do the job, to talk to the shops they mention, in your shopping activities.

Take care,
CBODY67

An absolute wealth of good information. This should get me started in the right direction. I've got some samples coming from Legendary, thanks for the tip!

72/73 VINYL TOP - GREEN BOAR

Thousands of OEM and custom auto interior parts for classic car restoration. Shop for upholstery, door panels, seats, floor mats, vinyl tops and more.

www.legendaryautointeriors.com

If it's worth doing it's worth doing right.

I have never done this myself, but have read of other's adventures with vinyl tops.

First, I would source the top myself. Get a sample from a few vendors before doing anything. A body shop is very likely going to grab the first one they find in a Google search. Time is money for them so they aren't going to try to match grains etc. They want the car in and out asap. You'll be happier with the outcome and it will probably be cheaper too.

My second piece of advice is that the rust under that vinyl will be worse than you think. Whatever you figure, double or triple it. Look for a body shop that can handle rust repairs correctly as it will be more than sand, prime and shoot.

Excellent plan. I'll first find a proper replacement and start researching a body shop that can prep the roof and properly fix the rust. Any advice on a finish and repair technique to ask for? I see some people leave Primer, others fight back and forth about POR-15, etc. I presume welding any pitting would be the proper fix?

 

[CBODY67]

Spot welds for the panels, "brazing" and grinding-to-shape for larger holes. Have to keep the heat LOW so as not to buckle the panels.

I'd forgotten about SMS. Thanks for the reminder, @ayilar.

CBODY67

 

[Big_John]

Excellent plan. I'll first find a proper replacement and start researching a body shop that can prep the roof and properly fix the rust. Any advice on a finish and repair technique to ask for? I see some people leave Primer, others fight back and forth about POR-15, etc. I presume welding any pitting would be the proper fix?

Repair technique will depend entirely on the condition of the roof.

Holes and deep pitting will require replacement metal... and a good bodyman. Slight pitting might be as easy as a little sandblasting and/or rust neutralizing. We've even seen a couple occasions on the forum where it looked like a new roof was the only repair, but I doubt yours is that bad.

Unfortunately, you won't know until the vinyl is removed.

 

[The_Swoose]

Repair technique will depend entirely on the condition of the roof.

Holes and deep pitting will require replacement metal... and a good bodyman. Slight pitting might be as easy as a little sandblasting and/or rust neutralizing. We've even seen a couple occasions on the forum where it looked like a new roof was the only repair, but I doubt yours is that bad.

Unfortunately, you won't know until the vinyl is removed.

Well, I know what I'll be planning in the next few months! ;)

Samples coming from SMS and Legendary. I'll be sure to post pics once I pull the vinyl off.

 

[Lowbudget]

I've gotten 2 correct grain tops from Kee Auto Tops. Well really 1 and 1/4 tops. I imagine their price will be better than SMS or Legendary. The only drawback is theirs will probably be a universal top, or at least that's what they had for my 73 Monaco Hardtop when I checked. It's what I'm going to order when I get that far.

 

[cbarge]

Ok.
I have done 2 cars that needed repairs under the vinyl top.
First car needed extensive fabrication.
Second was caught in time to avoid fabrication.
I documented the 2nd car repair.
Here is the link and it goes several pages:
Meet Maggie May!
My advice;
Remove all trim surrounding all windows.
Remove the rear window, get a professional to re and re the glass. It is worth the expense.
Plus if the window leaks, its on them, provided you prepped the channel properly.
Once the top is removed, inspect the damaged areas.

Use 120 grit, then 320 paper sand the entire roof removing any old glue and surface rust.
Wipe the roof clean and spray on a good quality epoxy primer.
Within 24 hours hit the roof with 80 grit just enough to scuff it so the glue and top has something to bite onto.
I ordered my top ( and headliner) from these guys.
Good service, prompt turnover time at a decent price;
Newstalgia Parts - 1973 Chrysler Newport Vinyl Top
Please read my thread, hope this helps.

 

[tbm3fan]

You can take the top off yourself as it isn't impossible to do. I did it on my 73 Polara. Don't be surprised to possibly see a pinhole or two along the lower rim of the window channel. Those channels easily got dirt buildup that almost never dried. After that I stripped to bare metal, shot with two medium coats of epoxy primer and then 2 medium coats of single stage urethane. A local guy, up the street, who has done upholstery work for decades did my top. He pulled out a large variety of sample books to look for my vinyl but this was back in 2012. Suppliers have come and gone since then.

 

[mr gtx]

mine came from topsonline for my newport. right top right price.

 

[The_Swoose]

Thank you all so much for the excellent information and motivation! The car is worth preserving, no rot on the underside. Low mileage and well-maintained engine.

I reached out to the one local upholstery shop and was quoted around $1500. I'll do it myself for that, been watching a lot of videos and many of your tutorials linked in this thread! I think it would be satisfying to do it.

The body shop quoted me around $1500 to prime and paint the roof assuming little to no rust issues to fix, I'd have to strip the original vinyl off and and glue. Maybe I need to start learning how to paint. I already know how to work small airbrushes no problem, surely the same principles would apply at large scale!

Ok.
I have done 2 cars that needed repairs under the vinyl top.
First car needed extensive fabrication.
Second was caught in time to avoid fabrication.
I documented the 2nd car repair.
Here is the link and it goes several pages:
Meet Maggie May!
My advice;
Remove all trim surrounding all windows.
Remove the rear window, get a professional to re and re the glass. It is worth the expense.
Plus if the window leaks, its on them, provided you prepped the channel properly.
Once the top is removed, inspect the damaged areas.

Use 120 grit, then 320 paper sand the entire roof removing any old glue and surface rust.
Wipe the roof clean and spray on a good quality epoxy primer.
Within 24 hours hit the roof with 80 grit just enough to scuff it so the glue and top has something to bite onto.
I ordered my top ( and headliner) from these guys.
Good service, prompt turnover time at a decent price;
Newstalgia Parts - 1973 Chrysler Newport Vinyl Top
Please read my thread, hope this helps.

Excellent doccumentation! Gives me a good idea of what to expect. I agree, better to do it sooner rather than later.

Silly question, what sort of shop would you look for that handles windows? Wouldn't hurt to ensure they're well-sealed.

 

[Big_John]

Thank you all so much for the excellent information and motivation! The car is worth preserving, no rot on the underside. Low mileage and well-maintained engine.

I reached out to the one local upholstery shop and was quoted around $1500. I'll do it myself for that, been watching a lot of videos and many of your tutorials linked in this thread! I think it would be satisfying to do it.

The body shop quoted me around $1500 to prime and paint the roof assuming little to no rust issues to fix, I'd have to strip the original vinyl off and and glue. Maybe I need to start learning how to paint. I already know how to work small airbrushes no problem, surely the same principles would apply at large scale!


Excellent doccumentation! Gives me a good idea of what to expect. I agree, better to do it sooner rather than later.

Silly question, what sort of shop would you look for that handles windows? Wouldn't hurt to ensure they're well-sealed.

If you do this yourself, remember the adage "Rust never sleeps". Yea, Neil Young wasn't talking about old Chryslers, but it does apply.

Point being, you have to completely eradicate the rust. If you don't, it will come back and ruin your top.

Since you just bought this car, I'd suggest just going out and enjoying it as it sits for a while. This is one of those projects that can drain your wallet and your enthusiasm for the car if you aren't careful.

 

[CBODY67]

One time, ages ago, a friend of mine (at the time) started to repaint a '52 Plymouth he bought. We sand blasted off the old paint, then applied the primer. In a time well before the current primers were available.

He told the paint supply guy what he wanted to do. "Metal Prep" liquid was not recommended, so none was applied. His judgment call. So, after the fiasco which the sand blasting turned out to be, we shot the primer on the bare metal. Perhaps the primer was a bit thicker than it should have been, BUT after the car sat out over two weeks, little rust spots started to apear in the primer. "Primer" (at least that earlier style) is not a sealant, just an intermediary layer. The top-coat paint seals things.

In doing "paint", much less primer, a clean and dry and "non-windy" locale is needed. What might seem to be acceptable quickly can become otherwise when you start to see little pieces of "grit" in the paint. Too late then! Which is one reason acrylic lacquer was usually what "shadetree" body shops, or those without dedicated paint booths used to use, back then. For example, a friend painted another friend's car in the large double garage at his house. The big door was closed, a/c filters were placed in the walk-in door for air inlet, as more a/c filters were placed in the window with the fan in it for the exhaust. It can be done, just needs a high degree of execution. He was shooting acrylic enamel and it came out well with very little "trash" in the paint.

IF an area junior college might have a vo-tech class in "autobody", at night, this might be a good way to get some good instruction on these things. It'll take much more than an airless paint gun to do the deal and do it right!

Most of what's already under the top fabric is not going anywhere. Nor will it spread quickly. As you plan this project, see if you can wait a bit to be sure that you want to do it yourself. Certainly, you can present the car with the top stripped off in a dry time of the year. If you let the shop do it, the car will be stored outside awaiting the job to be done. Which can mean that you HAVE to have a secure, dry, indoor location to do the work. By the time it's all over with and done, that $1500.00 estimate might be "cheap" compared to the effort you had to expend to do the deal yourself. OR the cost of equipment rentals and such.

NOT that any of us can't do that deal, but WE would usually have a secure, dry, and safe garage to work in rather than not. This will not be a quick deal to do, either. All of us most probably have other cars to drive and can leave the project in the garage with no additional costs or similar. Whereas the shop needs to keep their stalls producing profits to stay in business, so they (being set-up to do anything they might need to do) have the employees and equipment to quickly do the deal.

You sourcing the vinyl can be a plus, though. Just CAREFULLY look at the samples for an EXACT match, unless you just want "fabric" of whatever color you might desire. When received, IMMEDIATELY unpackage it and lay it on top of the car and such for inspection. Both in correct size and quality.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[cbarge]

Thank you all so much for the excellent information and motivation! The car is worth preserving, no rot on the underside. Low mileage and well-maintained engine.

I reached out to the one local upholstery shop and was quoted around $1500. I'll do it myself for that, been watching a lot of videos and many of your tutorials linked in this thread! I think it would be satisfying to do it.

The body shop quoted me around $1500 to prime and paint the roof assuming little to no rust issues to fix, I'd have to strip the original vinyl off and and glue. Maybe I need to start learning how to paint. I already know how to work small airbrushes no problem, surely the same principles would apply at large scale!


Excellent doccumentation! Gives me a good idea of what to expect. I agree, better to do it sooner rather than later.

Silly question, what sort of shop would you look for that handles windows? Wouldn't hurt to ensure they're well-sealed.

MY guy worked at a local auto glass shop and did house calls after hours on the side
The big chains may do house calls but not on classic cars.
So do home research you may find a glass shop guy that does side jobs after hours.
hope this helps.

 

[cbarge]

Doing the epoxy on the roof does not have to be pretty.
It just have to cover the roof sealing it pernanently from moisture.
So you can do it saving you labour costs.
Get a good spray gun, follow the epoxy mixing instryctions to the T.
CHeers.

 

[The_Swoose]

Big_John and CBODY67,

Thank you for the sage advice. I may have self-induced some panic by over-reading this week on vinyl tops and rust.

The current plan is to give it a solid cleaning, top to bottom, and wax it well (Meguiars Ultimate and 303 Protectant). I'll carefully inspect to ensure there is no significant rust anywhere else, but from what I've seen so far the underside looked good and was originally coated with some sort of anti-rust layer. Still has the original sticker on the window.

If y'all don't think it's going to spread too quickly, I'll be sure to take many months to research, save $, and weigh out the pros and cons of DIY (as much as I love learning and doing, some things aren't worth it).

In the meantime, I'm going to find some excellent matches for the top and enjoy floating down the road!

 

[MacLebaron]

One of your earlier entries mentioned Kee Auto Tops. I have dealt with David Simpson at Kee Auto Tops and he did a great job for me on my 69 Imperial.
I ordered the material from SMS after talking with David to get the yardage I needed. I shipped the material to him and he stitched and assembled the top perfectly! I then had an interior shop install the top and I am very satisfied.
One warning about SMS ….. they can take a long time if you have them make the top.
Fortunately I ran across David at Kee Auto Top and he fixed me up.

 

[The_Swoose]

I have a feeling this thread is just going to document my journey with this car.

Just climbed into the trunk to look around. Some old surface rust that looks way worse than it actually is. I don't see any deep pitting or anything. So much exposed bare metal in this trunk! It just rained on us, everything looks perfectly water-tight still. Should I just work on scouring this off and maybe coat it with some Fluid Film?