'Ol Bess's Starter (I think)

Mick

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While driving my just acquired '66 Imp, I kept hearing a fan type sound I couldn't track down, but sounded like it was coming from under the driver's side dash. Well, this morning I decided to try and lock it down. When I turn the key to on, the noise starts up, and then continues once she cranks over. I think the starter motor is not disengaging.
I have never encountered this particular issue. Any ideas out there?
 
So the noise starts up even before the starter engages, and the motor is turned over? Seems like you should be able to track down the noise easy enough then, but give the starter a couple good whacks with a bar, or hammer and see if things change.
 
is the blower motor in the dash coming on??
which is usually a bad switch?

or are you saying the starters actually spinning and you can put your hand on it and feel it spinning?
before it cranks?

if so,the wood/hammer thwack should suffice.
 
is the blower motor in the dash coming on??
which is usually a bad switch?

or are you saying the starters actually spinning and you can put your hand on it and feel it spinning?
before it cranks?

if so,the wood/hammer thwack should suffice.
Definitely not the blower motor. I haven't had a chance yet to get under it, but I will tomorrow. Just listening from up top that's where it seems to be coming from. It's like it engages as it should, releases, but doesn't stop spinning, if such a thing is possible. I will know more tomorrow, I just didn't know if anybody had ever heard of a condition where the starter actually can actually do that.
 
Definitely not the blower motor. I haven't had a chance yet to get under it, but I will tomorrow. Just listening from up top that's where it seems to be coming from. It's like it engages as it should, releases, but doesn't stop spinning, if such a thing is possible. I will know more tomorrow, I just didn't know if anybody had ever heard of a condition where the starter actually can actually do that.
Going to feel awfully stupid if it's totally unrelated to the starter, but oh well.
 
Does your car have Autopilot (cruise)? If so, I'll bet that's what is making the sound...

The cruise servo (located on the driver side inner fender) will make a sound like that when not adjusted, whether it's turned on or not. Try carefully unplugging the wire connector at the front of the servo to see if it stops.

If so, message me and I'll discuss it with you further... I'm a mild expert on Autopilot. :D
 
Does your car have Autopilot (cruise)? If so, I'll bet that's what is making the sound...

The cruise servo (located on the driver side inner fender) will make a sound like that when not adjusted, whether it's turned on or not. Try carefully unplugging the wire connector at the front of the servo to see if it stops.

If so, message me and I'll discuss it with you further... I'm a mild expert on Autopilot. :D
Well, I'll be d*mned. Gonna run out to the garage real quick...
 
Does your car have Autopilot (cruise)? If so, I'll bet that's what is making the sound...

The cruise servo (located on the driver side inner fender) will make a sound like that when not adjusted, whether it's turned on or not. Try carefully unplugging the wire connector at the front of the servo to see if it stops.

If so, message me and I'll discuss it with you further... I'm a mild expert on Autopilot. :D
Ding, Ding, Ding! We have a winner. Messaging you.
 
Hat's off to Ross Wooldridge for schooling me on the Auto Pilot issue AND an exciting issue I had with the high-beams on the trip home. Every time I kicked them on, they would last for a few seconds and then ALL lights went out. I took the hi-beam floor switch off and cleaned it and the connector, hooked it back up and let the car run for awhile. No problems. Once I take her out again I will see how both items perform in the real world. For now though, double header victory.

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Aw shucks guys... :thankyou:

So, did you have success with the Autopilot? Brake switch cut off too?
A qualified "yes" on bot h. I cleaned and adjusted the contacts on the Auto Pilot and the sound stopped immediately! What I don't know is what a proper adjustment range is. On the headlights, the hi beams do function while sitting there in park and with no load. The experience I had on the road was with a/c, headlights, etc., drawing. BUT, I will put today in the "W" column for sure. I also read some on the MADD solution, but am wondering if converting to LEDS (especially the headlights) would reduce draw enough to avoid potential meltdowns?
 
So very pleased to hear of your successes. I assume when you say "both" that the Autopilot brake switch adjustment worked too and you're not referring to the high beam dimmer switch.

There is no "proper adjustment range" on the Autopilot armature - if it works it's adjusted to within tolerance. It's a fairly basic system. Keeping it adjusted and dressing the points is the regular maintenance part...

Re LED bulbs - yes, using LEDs will certainly reduce the draw, but remember, EVERYTHING electrical runs through the bulkhead connector and the ammeter - AC, ALL LIGHTS, HEATER, RADIO, INTERIOR LIGHTS, POWER WINDOWS, POWER SEATS etc etc. It's a poor design which can really only be remedied by doing the MADD conversion and eliminating the bulkhead connection.

Also, I suggest a conversion if possible to a dual circuit brake system (with front discs). There will be clearance issues with the master cylinder and the Autopilot (another are I can help with), but it will be the single most valuable upgrade you can do.
 
So very pleased to hear of your successes. I assume when you say "both" that the Autopilot brake switch adjustment worked too and you're not referring to the high beam dimmer switch.

There is no "proper adjustment range" on the Autopilot armature - if it works it's adjusted to within tolerance. It's a fairly basic system. Keeping it adjusted and dressing the points is the regular maintenance part...

Re LED bulbs - yes, using LEDs will certainly reduce the draw, but remember, EVERYTHING electrical runs through the bulkhead connector and the ammeter - AC, ALL LIGHTS, HEATER, RADIO, INTERIOR LIGHTS, POWER WINDOWS, POWER SEATS etc etc. It's a poor design which can really only be remedied by doing the MADD conversion and eliminating the bulkhead connection.

Also, I suggest a conversion if possible to a dual circuit brake system (with front discs). There will be clearance issues with the master cylinder and the Autopilot (another are I can help with), but it will be the single most valuable upgrade you can do.
 
Yes, the dimmer switch seems good now. Any recommendations on a disc brake conversion set up? I did price a kit, but it was upwards of 1500. Do you know of a work around using other mopar set ups? I know the '66s came optional with the Budd discs up front, but I understand those are a mixed blessing and hard to find parts for.
 
Every time I kicked them on, they would last for a few seconds and then ALL lights went out.
We had this happen on a very dark and winding road in upstate NY last year, it was like I closed my eyes. I didn't know what the problem was at the time and was just thankful that the lights came back on after turning the high beams off.
 
We had this happen on a very dark and winding road in upstate NY last year, it was like I closed my eyes. I didn't know what the problem was at the time and was just thankful that the lights came back on after turning the high beams off.
Oh, yeah. And the rain. This is when I discovered the big trucks come standard with side and rear facing fire hoses...
 
We had this happen on a very dark and winding road in upstate NY last year, it was like I closed my eyes. I didn't know what the problem was at the time and was just thankful that the lights came back on after turning the high beams off.
Did you do the MAD fix for it?
 
Not yet but I am thinking about it. The wiring on my car is in such beautiful original condition that I hate to mess with it but I also know that it's over 50 years old...
 
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