1967 Chrysler New Yorker Ammeter Bypass

Electrical & Ignition

  1. resurrected wrecks

    resurrected wrecks New Member

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    Sorry for the length of this post, but I want to give as much information as possible. I have a 1967 Chrysler New Yorker with an electrical issue. I think there could be a couple issues going on.

    First, I had the driver's side door panel off to put the electric window back on it's track. I left the panel off as I want to do a little more work in there. The car still started and ran. No issues. A few days later, I had the battery out of the car to charge, and because I'm an idiot, put the battery back in with the posts facing backward, instead of the usual forward. Because of this, when I hooked the battery cables to the battery, I had the positive cable on the negative post, and the negative cable on the positive post. When I did hook the negative cable to the positive post, it blew the fusible link at the bulkhead connector. I figured out what I had done with the battery and replaced the fusible link. I was hoping it was a quick fix. Well, it wasn't.

    When I hooked the battery back up the proper way, anytime I would touch the negative battery cable to the negative battery post, it would spark and I would hear the electric lock device in the driver's side door locking and unlocking.
    I looked at all the wiring in the driver's side door to make sure there were not exposed wires or any shorts. I disconnected the power lock just for kicks. I went back to the battery, hooked the cables properly, and no spark and no anything. No interior lights. The car would not turn over when the ignition was turned. I did some research, thinking it might be the ammeter. I tried the method of attaching a fusible link and 10a wire from the alternator to the starter relay. No problems when I hooked up the battery! Interior lights! When I touched the key to the ignition, there was a slight spark, like static electricity in the winter when you touch a light switch. I put the key in the ignition, turned it, and it turned over!!!!! Yay!

    When I turned the key off and took it out of the ignition, the starter was still turning!!! I ran out to the battery and right before I disconnected the negative cable, the starter stopped turning on its own. I unhooked the negative cable from the battery, then took off the 10a wire from the alternator to the starter relay, to see if that had anything to do with it, and when I hooked up the battery again...nothing. No interior lights. No anything. The car would not turn over. So I hooked the 10a wire back up again to the alternator and starter relay, had interior lights, put the key in the ignition, the starter turned, and did not stop again when I took the key out. This time it didn't stop until I disconnected the negative cable from the battery.

    Again, sorry about the length of this post, but any ideas? Is the starter relay sticking? Should I completely negate the ammeter? All the fuses are fine and I looked at all the wiring for any exposed wiring or shorts. At not time did the car actually start as there was not fuel in the lines due to replacement. Thanks for any insight!

    I
     
  2. traintech55

    traintech55 Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Sounds like you really messed up some wiring there. Hooking up the jumper wire like you did is going backwards in the circuit. the proper flow is from battery to starter relay stud, to fusible link, through input to ammeter, to output from ammeter into main circuits and alternator. You might have fried the ammeter gauge when you hooked up the battery wrong. If you did you can bypass it to check the system by just putting the two wires together, BUT do not leave the system like that for long without a new gauge, or a voltmeter in the system so you can monitor the charging system.
     
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  3. resurrected wrecks

    resurrected wrecks New Member

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    Thanks for your input! That was going to be my next step. We'll see what happens!
     
  4. FURYGT

    FURYGT Senior Member

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    If you do an internet search or search on www.moparts.com for MOPAR amp gauge bypass you will find instructions on how to do a proper amp gauge bypass, which is recommended if you are using an alternator with a significant increase in output over stock. The amp gauge and the thin wiring to it are weak links in the Chrysler charging system in the '60's and early '70's. With the issues you have, it might be worthwhile to do a proper bypass and install a volt gauge, which is more helpful IMHO.
     
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  5. resurrected wrecks

    resurrected wrecks New Member

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    Thanks for the response! I'll check out that site.
     
  6. live4theking

    live4theking Old Man with a Hat

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    Everything these guys said is good. When you are checking fuses use a meter I have had fuses that looked good and were bad.
     
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  7. resurrected wrecks

    resurrected wrecks New Member

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    Thanks for the help! Very good idea! They all look fine visually, but who knows? I fried the system due to my stupidity, so who knows what condition they're in?!
     
  8. FURYGT

    FURYGT Senior Member

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  9. resurrected wrecks

    resurrected wrecks New Member

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    Thanks for the help! I happen to find that diagram when researching my issue. I followed the diagram and used the advice and help I got on this thread. I got the car running again and am back to where I was before I shorted out the system. I learned a lot throughout my experience about electrical systems to the proper way to solder wires. I want to thank you, live4theking, and traintech55 for the replies and help!
     
  10. FURYGT

    FURYGT Senior Member

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    No problem. What was the problem?
     
  11. traintech55

    traintech55 Senior Member FCBO Gold Member

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    Yes, what did you find? inquiring minds want to know?
     
  12. resurrected wrecks

    resurrected wrecks New Member

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    I did the ammeter bypass, let the car sit overnight, connected the battery THE CORRECT WAY, and it started the next day with no problems at all. No problems since. Thank you again for all the help everybody gave to me!
     
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