Paint Rejuvenation - '78 New Yorker 4-Door Brougham

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rsbolin

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Hello to members of the forum. I would like guidance on rejuvenating the paint on New Yorker. Before I purchase in March 2023 the car had sat in a conditioned garage with the original owners car collection. The paint is flat and dry as a bone.

What will be the best method(s) for bringing the paint back to life? I would prefer to do it myself, but if it is best to get it to a detailer I will do that.

Ron
 
I would start with washing with Dawn dishwashing soap.

Next would be to clay bar the entire car and wash again.

Then I would use Collinite #390. While this is usually used with an orbital buffer, it can be done by hand too. Since you are asking this, I assume you don't have one.

Then I would wax with Collinite #845 topped with P&S Beadmaker.

While this wasn't that bad, I just did this last month with a car that had been in storage for years.

SVplX9m.jpg
 
Thanks, Big John. Do have a link for purchasing the Collinite products you mentioned?

Ron
 
 
As a long-time Meguiar's user, after Barry sold the company to 3M, I don't seem to be getting the same results as I used to, even with their ceramic items. So I need to find a new protector product. Thanks for the info, @Big_John.

One thing about the Chrysler acrylic enamels, without the metallic being killed by the sun rays, they can look amazing with a little clean, wax, and buff. I would recommend a 6" orbital buffer, but without a wool pad. With a thick wool pad, the buffer just sits there and shakes, as I found out. Just be careful to remove only enough paint to get a hard shine. Then wax and seal.

Take care,
CBODY67
 
CBODY67 said:
I would recommend a 6" orbital buffer, but without a wool pad. With a thick wool pad, the buffer just sits there and shakes, as I found out.
Click to expand...
Yea, you want to use a foam pad. With the stuff I listed, somewhere in the middle for firmness or aggressiveness. The key word is "orbital".

I've buffed cars and boats with rotary buffers and you can really hurt the paint with one of those if you don't know what you are doing. I have an older Porter Cable 7424 that I bought years ago. It was the one to have then. There's a bunch of different ones now, and the ones the pros use are nicer but more expensive. I think one of the Harbor Fright buffers would probably be great for a guy that does a car now and then. 5.7 Amp 6 in. Short-Throw Random Orbit DA Polisher/Sander
I like the Lake Country foam pads, but they've gotten kind of pricey.

Amazon product ASIN B07WN1JKX5
I use mine once in a while and lately I've used it to spread the first coat of wax with a real soft foam pad. I follow up by hand for the next coat though.

All that said, doing it by hand just takes longer and gives you a little more of a work out. LOL. The stuff I recommended isn't real aggressive, but I'll bet the clay bar will do most of the clean up. It's amazing what kind of junk comes off with the clay... Plus it removes the old wax too.

My brown 300 can run in a rain storm and looks like it was never out of the garage. Even then I don't wash it, with my preference being a waterless cleaner and a bunch of microfiber towels. There's some technique to it, but washing can cause swirl marks and this won't. Amazon product ASIN B07C2NFMCP
There are other waterless washes, this one happens to be one I like (and have a half a gallon left LOL)
 
Here's a lengthy article on the subject.

The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints

The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints Copyright ©PBMA - AutogeekOnline.net® All Rights Reser
www.autogeekonline.net

I think someone on FCBO linked to it some time back, and that's how I found it.

You could substitute the products that John recommends for the Meguiar's stuff. The article was likely written before the 3M buyout mentioned by CBODY67.

Jeff
 
bigmoparjeff said:
Here's a lengthy article on the subject.

[/URL]

I think someone on FCBO linked to it some time back, and that's how I found it.

You could substitute the products that John recommends for the Meguiar's stuff. The article was likely written before the 3M buyout mentioned by CBODY67.

Jeff
Click to expand...
The Meguiars stuff is OK, but I found that you have to buy the professional stuff and not the consumer grade.

Mike Phillips, the author of that article is really sharp. I've watched some of his videos and you can't go wrong with his advice. You just have to remember he's also selling product while showing you how. Nothing wrong with that... All those guys are hawking product as part of the deal.
 
commando1 said:
I'm shocked. I thought somebody by now would have brought up Ceramic coatings.
Click to expand...
IMHO, the ceramic coatings are a lot of hype.

From what I've read and seen, to apply (they call it "install") a ceramic coating the right way, you have to have some training and you have to do a lot of prep work. They call the prep "paint correction". So, having a pro do it is expensive but the results look good.

The over the counter versions hit a few years ago and they looked promising, so I tried it. I wasn't impressed. It was harder to apply and I didn't see much difference. It also didn't last very long... That once or twice a year for my daily drivers sounded good to me, but the reality was it stripped off pretty quickly. It ended up being easier to just use some spray wax after running it through the car wash. This may be due to my real world use of my cars and my "unlimited" car washes (I get a set bill every month) that my DDs go through year round. Quite frankly, the Turtle Wax Ice spray does a nice job, applies very easily and seems to last. The true test is spring time after a winter's worth of driving and car washes with no waxing... The water still beads.
 
Funny thing is that twice a year was what I used to do with the old Meguar's "red bottle" cleaner wax and the Classic paste wax before that. No problems with "early withdrawal" of the water beads. NOW, it seems that the premium items give only that protection, if at all. Of course, light colors last longer than black or similar colors. Down here, it seems like black will only last about 3 months before it cooks-off.

The first "Torque" ceramic stuff was spray on, wash off, as it was the water which finalized the "setting" of the liquid, not like normal stuff. The later lime green Meguiars can be buffed, as normal. Their premium paste or liquid waxes, "no white residue".

ONE thing I did figure out is to not do everything at once, like I tried to do in my younger years. I discovered that if you can park the car inside, do the cleaner/polish inside. Let it sit a week and cure. Then do the wax and buff it off. Let it sit a week and cure. Then the second coat of wax and buff it out. That second coat of wax will go on slicker and easier, usually, and look better longer.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
I had a pro do a color correction on the Coronet in January 2022. The paint was is good shape, overall; but it had been painted in 1984 and really needed the pro touch. No matter what I did on that paint, it never really looked right. I'd seen much of my friend's work over the year prior, and was pretty impressed! So, for the princely sum of $600, he made the exterior of the Coronet look brand new, and I mean new! Both pics show the car at two events last Summer.

coronet_oct22.jpg


CoronetHRH2022.jpg
 
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