At fist a big thank you for you input and sharing your notes with us
From my testing on these switches, they are not all the same.
I read somewhere that the vacuum "T" on the intake manifold...where the brake booster and the small vacuum hose that feeds the vacuum reservoir...can get restricted with debris. I used a short piece of wire to ream out the T where the small hose connects....don't know if it helped or not, but there was a lot of debris in there...definitely partially blocked.
So it looks like my NOS switch is bad....so the blower is supposed to run all the time. I guess that's okay, but the compressor should not be running in "HEAT" and "OFF" modes as my NOS switch is doing. I guess I just need another switch. Still waiting to hear from OER about the repro switch functioin.At fist a big thank you for you input and sharing your notes with us
So with that beeing said it´s right that my blower now runs all the time (means the the NOS vac switch is fine) ? TBO can´t really see a reason why they build it that way? don´t need the blower motor most of the time......
I just copied the description from the ebay auction.....that guys said that the one switch replaces them all.
I too went through the mis-information that these switches are all the same. I bought one from Rick Ehernberg (tech writer for Mopar Action) a few years ago and he told me the same thing. That was when I found out they do not all work the same. I am using the 3502126 switch that runs the fan on low in place of the correct switch for my 68 Charger which is 2820487 that does not run the fan constantly. Ehernberg told me they are all superseded numbers for the same switch but they are not.
Have you had any experience or seen any reviews on htis reproduction? I can't find any meaningful reviews on it. I assume that with the part number they use on it, that it will run the compressor in defrost mode...which is ok with me. Still waiting to hear back from OER about how it functions.
Let’s say the 2126 switch is made for running the blower all the time I just got the wrong replacement for my 1020 because I believed in the guys who sold it to me that they were the same . What to do now is the question . Before I look for a 1020 one I wanna make the vac actuators work . For no reason I know they still don’t move although I got tough vac !
I think your problem is in the vacuum. You are losing the vacuum somewhere from the engine to the heater control switch. Maybe plugged or pinched. You will need to trace that hose through the firewall and verify you have vacuum to the switch. If all the hoses are hooked up correctly you should be good to go. It sounds like you are not getting any vacuum to the switch since nothing changes when you go from defrost to heat or AC.
As I checked engine vacuum and the reservoir and both are great I really need to to do that next , you’re 100% right . Next thing I’ll do
Do you hear any vacuum noise from the switch when you change modes? I can hear it on mine.
I do have a vacuum gauge thats how I tuned my carb and checked vac on Brake booster port and made sure vac reservoir holds vac like it should. But unfortunatly I dont have a pump......
Thats absolutely right . Next time I am at the car its the first thing I´ll do. I rebuild the heater box and lubed all the mechanics so it should move easily....
I had to replace all 3 actuators. Defrost actuator, fresh/recirculate and the temperature control actuator.
Morning Bud,
I found that the actuators diaphragms developed a leak in more than one way: I had one that had a loose seal to the rod that passed through it and another had a loose diaphragm (or tear-I don’t remember) around the edge of it.
