Just installed this to eliminate points in my 68 Chrysler Newport, installed exactly the way it was supposed to be, I ran the red to positive black to negative, I tried starting turned over ran rough shut off, put the original points back in the distributor now I can't start it and keep it running normal shuts off right away, I hope I didn't destroy my motor it ran fine yesterday until I took the points out and put the kit in. Please any help would be appreciated.
Pertronix ignitor 2 install help car not starting
- Thread starter mrzods13
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Did you do anything with the coil or the resistor?
Ok here is a picture of it installed. the magnets should be lower right. I mean the rotor locks into the cylinder with the magnets and it slides onto shaft fine but the little black square on the actual red unit isn't perfectly even with the magnets on the black cylinder. Could I run the positve wire and splice it with a wire on the starter relay. The pertronix diagram shows the positive being connected to a 12 volt source before it actually gets to the ballast resistor, Ok now I am lost I tried what the directions said now the car just clicks like the battery is dead but it is not it is fully charged. Yesterday it sounded like it wanted to turn over, the sound is coming from the starter relay.
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Ok figured out the problem why it was clicking. The ends of the battery cables had a coating on them I swapped them out with new uncoated ones and bam it triex to crank. I loosened the distributor and turned it clockwise just a hair and it started right up no popping or backfiring the timing is now at 10 degrees before top dead center. I did mark where it was before I moved it because when it was overheating we had it set there and it stopped overheating. I didn't get a chance to let it run to see where the temp would get to but hopefully I didn't solve one problem and the other overheating problem comes back.
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I hope you got it all figured out. I've got two of these units currently installed on my cars and found the instructions very easy to follow and kind of thought that your problem was something else. Now tell us more about this overheating issue.
Well I looked in the valley pan and noticed some oil in it the pan isn't cracked. Maybe the aluminum intake isn't sealing right with just the valley pan and high tack. Didnt have this problem before I upgraded the cam and carb and intake.
I used the thin paper gaskets .030, glued them onto the intake the night before.Run engine for a while, then re-torque. No leaks. I'm sure this will open debate.
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/210501/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/210501/10002/-1
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
BB intakes are not plug 'n play. 4 paper gaskets. Goo eight sides. Install. Drive. Retorque.
I will try the 4 paper way already tried the other way I figured there would be a problem with just the valley pan being it is an aluminum intake. I use the Permatex high tack and I am going to use some permatex rtc high temp(red) in the corners and on the front and back where the brackets bolt down. It's amazing how I wanted to follow the edelbrock directions and they say to use the gaskets like you guys are saying but that's my fault but it isn't a hassle for me to take the intake back off anyway, I want this sealed so it's worth taking back off. So two underneath valley pan and two on top, sandwhich together etc....
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