Power or manual steering?

[Helomech1969]

I am getting roadworthy a 1968 Plymouth Sport Suburban station wagon that has been sitting many years. I am fixing all leaks. When it comes to the steering, should I stay with power steering or convert to manual? I plan to drive maybe twice a month on very short, local drives. I have thought about making it manual steering to eliminate extra potential leaks. Thoughts, comments or suggestions? Other than the steering box, are there other components that need to be changed?

 

[68 4spd Fury]

I don't have any personal experience or know anyone who's used one but these are manual boxes that are supposed be as easy as power steering.

Flaming River FR1540 Mopar Dodge Plymouth A B C & E Body Manual Steering Box | eBay

 

[saylor]

I THINK you are gonna want to keep whatever you have, I THINK all the arm lengths are different between manual and power, maybe the pitman arm ratio is different or something also?

someone will confirm - but I say just fix what you have. it wont leak once its right, and will offer pinky finger steering control.

try not to die -

- saylor

 

[Yatzee]

I am getting roadworthy a 1968 Plymouth Sport Suburban station wagon that has been sitting many years. I am fixing all leaks. When it comes to the steering, should I stay with power steering or convert to manual? I plan to drive maybe twice a month on very short, local drives. I have thought about making it manual steering to eliminate extra potential leaks. Thoughts, comments or suggestions? Other than the steering box, are there other components that need to be changed?

That's a fairly large and heavy car to maneuver with manual steering. If you do go that route, find a 22" steering wheel before you buy the box regardless of brand.

 

[Helomech1969]

Thank you for all of this information. I think you're right once I get the components replaced what's good quality proponents they shouldn't leak for very long time. I will keep all of this in mind and thank you for your input.

 

[Helomech1969]

I currently have a Chrysler power steering pump on this engine. The design of the pump and Reservoir assembly looks like it's vulnerable to leak more than the Saginaw pump. What all is required to convert to the Saginaw pump and is this a good decision if wanting to maintain the power steering?

 

[70bigblockdodge]

What all is required to convert to the Saginaw pump and is this a good decision if wanting to maintain the power steering

Best improvement you can make. You can source all brackets from Buchillion performance in South Carolina.

 

[Helomech1969]

So the saginaw is a better pump in you opinion?

 

[Helomech1969]

I do see these brackets all over the internet for Big Block Chrysler engines with the Saginaw pump. However they keep noting 69 and newer. Is a 68 different than a 69 block somehow?

 

[CBODY67]

I recommend NOT modifying anything in the steering system. Fixing what you've got, then putting POWER STEEERING FLUID, NOT ATF, in the system, will result in a very reliable system, by observation. Not many "seals" to replace, in either the pump or the gearbox. There are some internal seals and such in the box itself, buy many are probably plastic-based than rubber-based.

Using Chrysler-spec (the OLD spec) or GM-spec power steering fluid is KEY, here. The old recommendation used to be that it was fine to "top-off" a system with ATF (at that time, either Type A, Suffix A, or Dexron atf), but IF there is a leak, several "top-offs" over time will result in too much non-compatible fluid in the system. If it has a reddish tint to it, it'll seep past the seals which are not totally compatible with atf, but flushing the system will fix that, usually, from my own experience. I'm not sure what spec-psf Chrysler is currently using. The old GM psf worked great for me. Originally USA-GM PN 1050017, but now probably in ACDelco bottles as 89021182 (qt).

As for "changes", the lower part of the steering column is different. There are conversion items to go from manual steering to power steering, but I don't know of any to do the reverse of that.

ONE of the things I like about Chrysler products is the directness of the power steering response and the generally faster ratio of it when compared to GM or Ford. Going to a manual system will result in about 5 turns lock to lock, rather than the current 3.5. No matter how much you don't drive it, that's what you'll end up with all the time. More effort, slower steering ratio. To me, that's not a good trade-off.

CBODY67

Fix what you've got, it'll be much easier and quicker.

 

[CBODY67]

Saginaw pumps came into use, generally, in '69 model year on B/RB cars. Prior to that, it was the larger-diameter Federal pump. Each has their own mounting brackets. Seems that A-blocks used them a year earlier or so? That's why the brackets for the Saginaw pump start in '69 on B/RB C-body cars.

The Saginaw pump is a more space-efficient design, plus several years newer than the prior Federal pump (which goes back a few years farther than '66). Although Saginaw division of GM built these pumps for Chrysler, as well as steering columns, that doesn't mean the guts of the pump are an exact copy of the similar-looking GM item, as Chrysler had the opportunity to have it built to "their specs" rather than just co-opting something that GM had done.

Some road tests of the '69s commented about "pump catch" when doing slalom testing. The Goodyears didn't grip too well, for some reason, plus the pump not being able to keep up with demands (hence, the "catches" as you tried to quickly turn the steering wheel fast enough to run the slaloms). Curious that this would happen with the change to Saginaw pumps?

CBODY67

 

[65Fury440]

I'd like to add a personal experience regarding PS fluid.
My Chevy 3500 has a hydroboost system. It WILL NOT function properly with house brand PS fluid, or trans fluid. Apparently, the fluid gets quite hot, even with a PS cooler.
I drained and replaced with Lucas brand PS fluid, works perfectly now.
It's worth it to spend a couple more bucks for a vehicle you care about and use the good stuff.

 

[Big_John]

putting POWER STEEERING FLUID, NOT ATF, in the system, will result in a very reliable system

Thank you!

Every leaky Mopar PS system I've ever encountered has had ATF in it.

There is a conversion kit available to go from power to manual. It's an extension of the steering shaft to make up the distance to the manual box.

The manual box has a much slower ratio and in a heavy car, it wouldn't be any fun to park. I'd recommend not to do it.

 

[CBODY67]

ATF and PSF are very "thin" fluids, but have different operating environments and additive packages as a result. Viscosity makes it work, additive packages KEEP it working where it was designed to work. The seals, hose rubber, and fluid ALL need to be compatible, otherwise "leaks/seeps" will result. Better to use the right stuff than replace rubber parts later.

In prior times, psf was probably more like general hydraulic fluid, but as the needs of each evolved, the different fluids resulted. I know that Chrysler had a psf part number in '66 and GM had one in 1961 (when the old ATF Type A fluid spec was obviously replaced with it).

CBODY67

 

[65Fury440]

My 65 has manual steering and a big block.
OP with a huge car like yours, stay with power, it is just a hassle parking.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

The Saginaw PS pumps are better and we're used way longer than those other PITA pumps. I have personally never used anything but ATF in PS system, your choice.

 

[Carmine]

Getting rid of P/S just to avoid a potential leak is like cutting off your nuts to avoid the risk of testicular cancer!

 

[Gerald Morris]

I LIKE my Federal/Chrysler pump in my 66 Newport, despite a slow leak. Federal pumps deliver more pressure/power over a wider range of RPMs than Saginaw pumps. Stick with yours, and get it fixed or replaced with a compatible sort if you must. C bodies ARE heavy and large, making for some need for power steering. Yes, you CAN do without, but given the work first in converting, second the added labor in steering your machine, it seems like a poor investment with little benefit. I run generic PS in my setup, and will, when I've got extra $$ that has no better use, get a cooler just to keep things working better. This likely will come with a rebuild/replace job. I recall using ATF in a number of older, 60s cars with varying degrees of success vs catastrophe and now, given the costs of each, just stick with PS fluid made for the purpose save in emergencies. For now, I need $1100 for a transmission rebuild, and must concentrate on raising that. No mean feat for an aging working dad who prefers keeping mama and young-un at home, but this too is how things were made in the 1960s, when I was made and I DON'T LIKE MODERN STUFF!

 

[MoparBrew]

Keep the POWER, it will be easier , better and cheaper in the long run

 

[Helomech1969]

Thank you, forum. I have read every post up to this point and I've come to the conclusion that I will stay with the stock power steering system. I value all of you input. Especially the "cutting off the nuts" analogy!!