Power Steering Gear issue

[Rouven]

hey guys this will be my first post. I've tried to find an answer but didn't got one or just an indication if I've missed it sorry in advance.

I'm currently rebuilding my '68 NY, engine done, transmission next and now the PS gear. Initially the old one had to much slop in there so I've found a used one claiming not to have slop and installed it yesterday. That's when I realised that it's NOT a C-body gear, it's missing the big "C" on top and comes from a/b body something. I've read somewhere on the internet that this is not intended to used with C-body pump and c-body itself.

My struggle here is: Can I still use it since it's installed or is something about to blow up?
Next thin I've realised the input shafts is moving up/down a little while turning? The old one didn't - is that normal?

Ultimately my 1/4 turn play in the steering wheel isn't gone although I've tested the gear uninstalled by turning it with my hand and it responded immediately. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance guys! Currently my engine is still out and I want to reassembly everything for next Friday in order to have my car back on the road for my birthday. Hope my homemade engine rebuild works....

 

[Davea Lux]

You do not want to use any gear except the one that is stock for your application. Your free play issues could be caused by a host of problems. Loose pitman arm bushing, loose idler arm, worn tie rod ends come to mind as obvious causes in addition to to a worn out gear. The replacement gear you bought is probably worn also in addition to not being the correct unit. There should not be movement on the input shaft when the gear is turned. There are adjustments for the input shaft, but that adjustment has to be made with the gear out of the car. I would start with the old gear first. If it did not have a lot of movement on the input shaft, the gear probably can be adjusted to remove the free play. I would suggest going on line and downloading the FSM. It gives detailed instructions on how to adjust the steering gear. www.mymopar.com

Dave

 

[Rouven]

Dave, thanks for the answer. I've switched back to my original one and tried to adjust the slop in it with sort of success, 1/8 turn slop now. Works for now but maybe I switch to a complete aftermarket set - do you guys have any suggestions on what's easy to install and also good?

 

[Davea Lux]

Dave, thanks for the answer. I've switched back to my original one and tried to adjust the slop in it with sort of success, 1/8 turn slop now. Works for now but maybe I switch to a complete aftermarket set - do you guys have any suggestions on what's easy to install and also good?

1/8 turn of free play for this type of gear would be in the "normal" range with the engine off, you are probably not going to get much better than that with a rebuilt unit. The older steering systems are never going to be as crisp as a modern rack and pinion. A lot of the rebuilt units from Mexico, Taiwan and Brazil are crap right out of the box. I would suggest inspecting the rest of your steering for worn parts before before getting too concerned about replacing the gear. If it were mine, I would take it to a competent front end shop for wheel alignment and inspection and proceed from there.

Dave

 

[twostick]

A power steering box usually has what seems like a lot of play until the pump is pressured up.

Did it have a lot of slop when it was running?

Kevin

 

[Rouven]

Okay I didn‘t know that. If 1/8 of a turn is normal than I suppose it just is. Did they come out of the factory this way back in 68?
Currently making no difference if pump pressure is applied or not

 

[Davea Lux]

Okay I didn‘t know that. If 1/8 of a turn is normal than I suppose it just is. Did they come out of the factory this way back in 68?
Currently making no difference if pump pressure is applied or not

A certain amount of free play was built into the design so that the gears would not clash inside. Chrysler used a spring loaded slack adjusting rod to compensate for gear wear. When you move the adjusting nut on the top of the gear, you increase the spring tension to remove the wear related slack. If you have the gear properly adjusted, it should hold a straight line with minimal wandering in a straight line. How is the end shaft play at the input coupling? The input shaft moves up and down as the wheel is turned, it is also out of adjustment. The FSM details how to adjust the input shaft. In answer to your question, some play as long as the car will hold a straight line, is acceptable.

Dave