Press out Imperial UCA Bushings

[vdk2010]

How do I press out the Upper control arm bushings on the Imperial control arm?

I tried it but failed miserably :/

Here is what tools I've just bought for rebuilding the frontend:

 

[vdk2010]

I managed to remove the pivot shaft from the lower control arm but the inner sleeve stayed on the shaft...

Is there an easy way to remove this sleeve?

 

[commando1]

The only way I can see would be destructive and then a new sleeve.

 

[commando1]

New sleeves in hand first, of course....

 

[Big_John]

The sleeve should be part of the new bushing.

The best way I've found is to start grinding a slot lengthwise with a die grinder or Dremel tool. You don't need to grind through it, just grind enough material away so that it gets thin. You might have to do the same thing from the opposite side.

There are other methods, including using a chisel to loosen the sleeve up, but I've had really good luck with the grinder.

 

[LocuMob]

The only way I can see would be destructive and then a new sleeve.

The sleeve should be part of the new bushing.

The best way I've found is to start grinding a slot lengthwise with a die grinder or Dremel tool. You don't need to grind through it, just grind enough material away so that it gets thin. You might have to do the same thing from the opposite side.

There are other methods, including using a chisel to loosen the sleeve up, but I've had really good luck with the grinder.

Gotta get the old one off, I used my Dremel and tapped it with a chisel to get the shell loose enough to slip off. I did do both sides also.

 

[detmatt]

For the lower I used Big Johns method and once weakened with the grinder I used a hammer and chisel to knock it off.
The uppers were tricky and I don’t even think I could put into words how I did it. I will say I had no fancy tools for it though and with the mounting bar going through them I couldn’t come up with a way to use the press. I literally used a bfh, a pickle fork, scraps of steel and even some wood scraps. I do also remember thinking I could have used another set of hands to actually support the control arm while I went to town on it like a caveman but I got it done and didn’t even hurt myself badly in the process. Putting the new ones in was also an adventure in creativity.

 

[vdk2010]

Thanks Guys, I hoped there is an obvious, less destructive way to remove the sleeve. I go the Dremel way.

Same with the Bar in the uca. I thought I might fail to see an obvious way to do it.

 

[detmatt]

You’d regret not using an angle grinder or die grinder, that dremel will take forever compared to a grinder. You’re not going to hurt that shaft even if you’re not careful.

 

[polara71]

I took my lowers to a guy ..well worth the 40 bucks

 

[detmatt]

Here’s my response to you Julian from when you asked me just after I did them.


Yep I scratched my head for a while on that one too. I thought maybe I was going to have to carefully cut them out as a last resort but I was able to support the arm with a bunch of clamps and scrap steel in my press frame for starters. Then soak with penetrant. Once supported and braced I was able to take a pickle fork and place it on the inside of the outer sleeve of the bushing with the shaft going in between the forks, you follow? Then proceed to beat squarely on the fork with a bfh until it's out. You will want to have the end of the handle of the fork supported on something so that the tool is square with the bushing. I didn't take any pics of this embarrassment as I did have my hands full and also keep in mind that this car comes apart as if it were assembled 3 weeks ago, your results may differ. The shaft is a GM style assembly though and I'm sure you could find a machine shop that can r & r the bushings more efficiently.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

In the LCA the outer sleeve can be filled with a couple of washers (as big as will fit) then curling the rearward edges over and with a extension through the forward hole push the sleeve out. Put a half spacer in from your kit and a bolt through the hole then press down on shaft pushing the bushing toward the outside.

 

[bluefury361]

It helps to, using a torch, burn the rubber out first. The heat generated may loosen the steel sleeves but is still a pretty primitive method to get them apart.
You'll want to do this in a well ventilated area. Burning rubber can be nasty.

 

[Kernel Sanders]

The sleeve on the lower control arm pivot I've only ever used an anvil and a BFH... wail on the side of the sleeve, its stretches and loosens and slides right off. No I've never damaged any of the pivots I've removed the sleeve from. (eye and ear protection)

The upper control arm bushings, burn out the rubber with a torch and the pivot bar falls out, I then use a ball joint remover/installer to remove the bushing shells. (messy and stinks)

 

[Kernel Sanders]

ooo just looked at your upper control arm picture... your pivot bar is not one I've seen before. looks like it may not slip through the burned out bushing shell... if not disregard my suggestion as I'm used to working with ones that do:

 

[detmatt]

ooo just looked at your upper control arm picture... your pivot bar is not one I've seen before. looks like it may not slip through the burned out bushing shell... if not disregard my suggestion as I'm used to working with ones that do:

View attachment 149043

The pivot bar will not be out of our way until you completely remove one bushing so it’s a pita.

 

[LocuMob]

The pivot bar will not be out of our way until you completely remove one bushing so it’s a pita.

Makes my A and C body parts look easy!

 

[vdk2010]

Soo many great advices, thanks Guys

You’d regret not using an angle grinder or die grinder, that dremel will take forever compared to a grinder. You’re not going to hurt that shaft even if you’re careful.

You're right, I tried the dremel today and I stopped because it was not very successfull. I will use the die grinder tomorrow!

I took my lowers to a guy ..well worth the 40 bucks

It would, but there is no shop anywhere around me that I would trust to do it. Unfortunately, they are not that familiar with this kind of suspension work over here.

Here’s my response to you Julian from when you asked me just after I did them.

Yep I scratched my head for a while on that one too. I thought maybe I was going to have to carefully cut them out as a last resort but I was able to support the arm with a bunch of clamps and scrap steel in my press frame for starters. Then soak with penetrant. Once supported and braced I was able to take a pickle fork and place it on the inside of the outer sleeve of the bushing with the shaft going in between the forks, you follow? Then proceed to beat squarely on the fork with a bfh until it's out. You will want to have the end of the handle of the fork supported on something so that the tool is square with the bushing. I didn't take any pics of this embarrassment as I did have my hands full and also keep in mind that this car comes apart as if it were assembled 3 weeks ago, your results may differ. The shaft is a GM style assembly though and I'm sure you could find a machine shop that can r & r the bushings more efficiently.

I totally forgot I asked that before And this at my age ;) I like the pickle fork idea and I do have a set! I will try that before I use a torch. I really wanna try no to burn any rubber. I don't like that. As I told Dave, there are no shops I'm aware of that are capable to do such work over here.

In the LCA the outer sleeve can be filled with a couple of washers (as big as will fit) then curling the rearward edges over and with a extension through the forward hole push the sleeve out. Put a half spacer in from your kit and a bolt through the hole then press down on shaft pushing the bushing toward the outside.

Que? Sorry, I totally don't understand your way

It helps to, using a torch, burn the rubber out first. The heat generated may loosen the steel sleeves but is still a pretty primitive method to get them apart.
You'll want to do this in a well ventilated area. Burning rubber can be nasty.

That's the last way to burn it out. I don't like to burn rubber. Burning rubber IS nasty ;)

The sleeve on the lower control arm pivot I've only ever used an anvil and a BFH... wail on the side of the sleeve, its stretches and loosens and slides right off. No I've never damaged any of the pivots I've removed the sleeve from. (eye and ear protection)

The upper control arm bushings, burn out the rubber with a torch and the pivot bar falls out, I then use a ball joint remover/installer to remove the bushing shells. (messy and stinks)

You just lay it on an anvil and beat the heck out of it wit ha BFH? Hmm, that can't be good for the roundness of the shaft I would think.

ooo just looked at your upper control arm picture... your pivot bar is not one I've seen before. looks like it may not slip through the burned out bushing shell... if not disregard my suggestion as I'm used to working with ones that do:

View attachment 149043

You thought right, the eyes on the bar are bigger then the inner diameter of the bushing. That is not an option. If so, I would be able to push it out even without burning out the rubber!

 

[LocuMob]

Soo many great advices, thanks Guys


You're right, I tried the dremel today and I stopped because it was not very successfull. I will use the die grinder tomorrow!


It would, but there is no shop anywhere around me that I would trust to do it. Unfortunately, they are not that familiar with this kind of suspension work over here.


I totally forgot I asked that before And this at my age ;) I like the pickle fork idea and I do have a set! I will try that before I use a torch. I really wanna try no to burn any rubber. I don't like that. As I told Dave, there are no shops I'm aware of that are capable to do such work over here.



Que? Sorry, I totally don't understand your way



That's the last way to burn it out. I don't like to burn rubber. Burning rubber IS nasty ;)


You just lay it on an anvil and beat the heck out of it wit ha BFH? Hmm, that can't be good for the roundness of the shaft I would think.



You thought right, the eyes on the bar are bigger then the inner diameter of the bushing. That is not an option. If so, I would be able to push it out even without burning out the rubber!

Burning the rubber would help you to move the bar back and forth, making it less of an obstacle, no? I'm thinking like a u joint, where the inner "cross" slides around til you get the caps off, then slide it out. That's how I've been looking at it. Burning rubber sucks, but sometimes it's a necessary evil. Then pound the bushings out with the pickle fork. I don't envy you, good luck.

 

[vdk2010]

I'm sure no one here actually does. ;)

The torch is the last option, but it is one!