swisherred
Senior Member
I have considered the HEI ones with the coil in the cap like gm...easy to find parts for and cheap. $100....but I do like to keep original when possible...
probably need a distributor...recommendations?
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I meant just the modual. On a big block there is a mount that they make Bolts on the underside of the distrib, easy change out if needed PIA on a small block. I will look for a pic. Also read you went 4bbl from 2bbl. The curve is probably off with the oem distrib. Whatever you decid to go with look up the 4bbl specs an get one with a curve close to it. Also if you have a cam it changes things.
PM me your distributor number and I can look it up easily and compare it to the same year 4bbl.
Definitely stay away from the import one wires. They do not stand up. I have taken a few apart total junk.
swisherred
Senior Member
They are ok, just the only thing I do not like is they don't list the curve. Most of them go all in pretty fast. Just has a performance curve?
swisherred
Senior Member
Are you referring to the amount of timing change related to inches of vacuum? What info does one need to determine the appropriate curve needed?
Yes that is the most important part. Each engine combo has a different amount of mechanical built into the distributor then the vacuum part is important also. Kind of hard to explain there is a post I did on FABO that explains it. Cardone does a good job rebuilding them but they put a generic curve in to have it pretty much work on a span of engine for lets say 10 years. It can work great or a dog depending on the application.
Here is the link.
Everything you wanted to know about ignition advance
Like I posted earlier get me the distributor number and if it is still stock I can look it up for you. I rebuild them so I have the right books. Remember the Pertronix just makes a better crisper spark and will not change the curve. I am wondering if the plastic retaining bushing is shot since you originally posted that you press down on the cap and it runs better.
swisherred
Senior Member
I will hopefully have time today or over the weekend to get the distributor out so I can get you the number and take a look at the wear on it. Thank you
No sweat I enjoy it!
swisherred
Senior Member
Shaft moves up and down a little less than 1/32" . the points don't even move unless I put side pressure on the rotor while turning it...then they move. Pretty sure its worn.
swisherred
Senior Member
looking up that number says its a 1967 383 4bbl...odd...I have a 4bbl with what looks to be an original 4bbl intake and now apparently a 4bbl distributor...I know the 4bbl model had higher compression...how can I tell if i actually have a 4bbl motor? The VIN says 2bbl.
The FSM should have the engine id in it. 1/32 is normal up and down. You should not have any side play more than .004. If turning the shaft and the cam plate wobbles (take the rotor off and look) it can be a bent shaft. Also see if the mechanical advance is working, lock the shaft say in a vice gently put the rotor on and see if you can turn the rotor in CCw direction a few degrees and see if it returns, if so the mechanical is working. See if the vac advance is blown out also that will let the points plate shift forward
swisherred
Senior Member
I will check these, I do know that the vac advance works though. The cam lobes look pretty worn, but it could just be that the points wiper block is worn out. If I had to guess the side play isnt bad. I cant see movement but I can feel it slightly...so definitely under .01". Most of my movement was in the plastic ring in the engine block...it sat kinda loose in that.
im not sure what I would be looking for when you say engine ID in the FSM. I only have the FSM for a 67 polara and the 67 chrysler parts book.
They should have something for the year id numbers I would think. If not 440 source has a good chart by casting numbers. Those nylon rings break off all the time. Look at it for a hairline crack or enlarged holes where the roll pin goes through. If it has either put a new collar on it, metal is the best not the ones with the set screw though they block oil into the distributor shaft.Sounds like your core is in good shape though.
swisherred
Senior Member
im referring to the 2" (about) ring in the engine block that the distributor sits in...
swisherred
Senior Member
I can only find one casting number online for 383 in 67. 2568130 but that covers 59-71. Im thinking same block but different pistons...not sure how to tell what this has in it. I know it has log manifolds not the HP ones i had in my monaco.
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