Proportioning Valve and PB Booster

jstaples2

jstaples2

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Hi all -
I had disc brakes put on up front and didn't realize that there was a bit more that was needed. I still have the original drum/drum MC on it - so I am planning on swapping it out for a disc/drum MC. Since I'm going to go through the effort here I'd like to put a brake booster on...

Looking for advice/tips on the best route to go here, I see a broad range of boosters out there for the B bodies - do these mount up the same on the C bodies? Some boosters run $400+ while others are in the $150 range. Any advice/guidance on what's out there?

Do I also need a proportioning valve in addition to the correct disc/drum MC?

Thanks for any help!

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Last edited:
300rag said:
The existing pedal arm could also be drilled with a hole at the proper distance from the pivot.
Click to expand...
Then the travel of the rod won't be straight.
You have to move the pin location at the top of the bracket to the same distance as the PB bracket.
 
I just cant sit back and shut up on this matter... brake parts are for repairs, brake systems were designed for the parts to work together.

jstaples2 said:
Hi all -
I had disc brakes put on up front and didn't realize that there was a bit more that was needed. I still have the original drum/drum MC on it - so I am planning on swapping it out for a disc/drum MC. Since I'm going to go through the effort here I'd like to put a brake booster on...

Some boosters run $400+ while others are in the $150 range.

Do I also need a proportioning valve
Click to expand...

Your best success will come from a system of parts meant to work together. Find out what calipers you have, and rear wheel cylinders as well... you can then research the bore diameters and find the proper size bore master cylinder for disk brakes (front circuit will use a lot more fluid)... then try to find a matching booster that will fit the car. Finally you will get to figure out the proper pedal to make this all work without jacking around with proper pedal height.

I like upgraded brakes when they are a true up grade. A put together system for the sake of "disc brakes" isn't an upgrade if it doesn't improve performance and safety. Worry less about the cost and more about making your system work correctly at all 4 wheels. You need to duplicate the components from a factory system as best you can, including the valve.
 
I saw that coming... :poke:

Slow down canflap, you're throwing him the final exam.
Let him absorb the first step.
 
commando1 said:
OCD is a *****. I know.
Click to expand...

You have no idea how many times I just wished I could go and fix the damn thing on some of these posts... its almost enough to get me to lose sleep over, almost.
 
whoever put discs on there using the drum/drum MC needs a kick in the balls.

looks like no boosty there now..

was it always a dual system, or did it have a single pot on there before?

what year car is this?

try not to die -

- saylor
 
You have no idea how many times I just wished I could go and fix the damn thingon someof these posts
Click to expand...

Well, if something breaks, it's comforting to me to know that help in an emergency is 90 minutes away, at best. And I have a lift, a shop full of tools, and 4 autoparts stores within 10 minutes of the lift.

I can satisfy all your fantasies.
 
saylor said:
whoever put discs on there using the drum/drum MC needs a kick in the balls.

looks like no boosty there now..

was it always a dual system, or did it have a single pot on there before?

what year car is this?

try not to die -

- saylor
Click to expand...

It's a 1968 Fury. That's the original dual system that was on it when I bought the car, manual drums all around. I had disc brakes put on up front - the guy at the shop mentioned a proportioning valve, but I had no idea about the MC swap.
 
commando1 said:
I can satisfy all your fantasies.
Click to expand...

Aw hell... this just became a craigslist personal add gone wrong...

(and I'm not too sure any go right)

If you ever get yourself dug in deep enough to ask for help... which I don't think happens too often... I will do what I can to be there. Diagnostic issues with electronics and drivability is my strongest area, you would be the one schooling me elsewhere I'm sure.
 
jstaples2 said:
It's a 1968 Fury. That's the original dual system that was on it when I bought the car, manual drums all around. I had disc brakes put on up front - the guy at the shop mentioned a proportioning valve, but I had no idea about the MC swap.
Click to expand...

The disc brake caliper pistons need a lot more fluid than drum brakes do... the master will have a big reservoir for the front circuit. Without it you could run out of fluid as the pads wear. It may be a different diameter piston, which is much more important. The prop valve for discs will include a hold off valve and may be balanced differently. Your guy should have done the job completely, which makes me question his knowledge and ethics... but I don't know the guy, and I'm not there to find out. If a similar car could donate it's pedal and loaded booster, you would at least have build cores and a correct pedal.
 
Ok thanks guys. I didn't realize the existing pedal/rod connections wouldn't work when adding a booster. I think for now I'll stick with the manual brakes but get the MC and proportioning valve sorted out.

I appreciate the quick responses. You guys are awesome!
 
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