Question about Torsion Bars

badvs3vil

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Hello, I have a 73 Newport Custom

I just installed a BBB rebuilt gearbox and so far its been great. So now everything except the lower control arms and torsion bars have been replaced. Which leads me to my issue.

After I got the new gearbox in and also the moog offset upper control arm bushings, I went and got an alignment. I had set everything to max caster before going in. Both sides had +5% caster! However, when they went to align it, they said the drivers side could not get any positive caster and keep the cambre within spec, as soon as they try, it goes way off. To add on top of that, currently the car pulls a little to the left. Also after a turning, even a little, to the left, it stays there and does not return to center.

My question to the ones that are smarter then I is this. Could my issue actually be my drivers side torsion bar? If you look in the top picture you will see the Torsion Set Screws. The drivers side (right side in the pic) you can see its screwed in pretty far in order to get the car even. The second pic shows how even she is right now. Could that be my issue?

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upload_2021-5-16_21-16-16-png.png
 
The adjustment bolts should be about the same.
The caster should also be set evenly or it will pull to side with less caster. If the caster starts at +5 and gets used up to being camber in I would venture a guess is lower control arm bushing is shot. Just a guess without seeing and touching.
 
The adjustment bolts should be about the same.
The caster should also be set evenly or it will pull to side with less caster. If the caster starts at +5 and gets used up to being camber in I would venture a guess is lower control arm bushing is shot. Just a guess without seeing and touching.

I assume the LCA bushing is shot. I replaced all the rest but haven't touched those yet. I was hoping I wouldn't have to after knowing what it took me to deal with the uppers. LOL
 
I assume the LCA bushing is shot. I replaced all the rest but haven't touched those yet. I was hoping I wouldn't have to after knowing what it took me to deal with the uppers. LOL
Level those adjusters. It will help a little. Just loosen one a turn and tighten the other a turn. Keep alternating till the get ~ the same level with control arm bottom. You should roll car back and forth to let it settle while adjusting.
 
Level those adjusters. It will help a little. Just loosen one a turn and tighten the other a turn. Keep alternating till the get ~ the same level with control arm bottom. You should roll car back and forth to let it settle while adjusting.

If I make them around the same level, both left and right side, the car will be really uneven. Do I want to do that?
 
It should not be uneven. If it is something is wrong.

That was my point of this thread. Is my right side torsion bar bad as I have to really screw in that set screw in order for the car to be even. Thats why I showed 2 pictures, one of the current settings and one of the car being even. If I unscrew that screw, that side will drop down.
 
Is my right side torsion bar bad as I have to really screw in that set screw in order for the car to be even.

I see that one side is screwed in tighter, but can't tell how much from the picture. So how much of a difference side to side on the bolts? Also, do you know if both bars are original to the car? Or have they been replaced and are they matching bars? If you don't know the answer grab a set of calipers and measure the bars.
 
I see that one side is screwed in tighter, but can't tell how much from the picture. So how much of a difference side to side on the bolts? Also, do you know if both bars are original to the car? Or have they been replaced and are they matching bars? If you don't know the answer grab a set of calipers and measure the bars.

I have no idea if they have ever been changed or if they are original. I can tell that they are old for sure. My battery died in my caliper but none the less, they are both the same size, I took a pic of the caliper locked into the size.

The next 2 pictures are closer up of the LCA's. The first one is the drivers side and the second is the passenger side. The drivers side is the side that is causing me issues.

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There is also a left and right torsion bar. If they were ever removed for any reason, they might have been switched, that might affect how the bar adjusts.

As stated above, take the bolts out completely and make sure they are the same length. A lot can happen in nearly 50 years, never say never.

IMHOP, you should pull the LCA’s and redo the bushings anyway, it will give you the chance to inspect the bars and all the associated parts.
 
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If I make them around the same level, both left and right side, the car will be really uneven. Do I want to do that?

Your rear leaf springs are in trouble if you have to adjust the screws to get it level like this.
Wouldn't be surprised if you have a broken leaf...
 
The rear leaf springs and shocks and everything is all new.

And everything in the rear is setup correctly? have to ask such as the hangers are correctly positioned. I've seen a few where the rear hanger gets bound up causing one to sit higher than the other.
Barring this, then there's something going on in the front like the others have mentioned or worst case scenario, the stub frame is bent.
Hope that's not the case.
Keep us updated on this
Thx:thumbsup:
 
And everything in the rear is setup correctly? have to ask such as the hangers are correctly positioned. I've seen a few where the rear hanger gets bound up causing one to sit higher than the other.
Barring this, then there's something going on in the front like the others have mentioned or worst case scenario, the stub frame is bent.
Hope that's not the case.
Keep us updated on this
Thx:thumbsup:

Yeah everything looks great in back. who knows, it could be the stub frame, I hope not but who knows...
 
they are both the same size

That's good news. I'll assume you have matching shocks too. Your strut rods also look to be straight. So if your rear springs are new and you don't have a flipped hanger on one side then I think your down to two other possibilities; 1) badly worn or missing LCA bushing or 2) a weak/damaged bar. Either of those will require pulling the bars out so replace the bushings while your there.

Maybe someone else can think of other issues to look at.
 
That's good news. I'll assume you have matching shocks too. Your strut rods also look to be straight. So if your rear springs are new and you don't have a flipped hanger on one side then I think your down to two other possibilities; 1) badly worn or missing LCA bushing or 2) a weak/damaged bar. Either of those will require pulling the bars out so replace the bushings while your there.

Maybe someone else can think of other issues to look at.

Im with you on this call. Ive watched a ton of videos on getting those bars out and then the beast of dealing with 50 year old LCA bushings... I wish I knew a shop that would actually work on this thing when I dont want to. LOL
 
When I was doing my suspension the general consensus on the board was either the torsion bar is either good or broken, confirmed by PST . They recommended, if they weren't broken or if I didn't want a stiffer ride, do not change them.

I think you have something together incorrectly or something is broken and you don't know it.
 
Im with you on this call. Ive watched a ton of videos on getting those bars out and then the beast of dealing with 50 year old LCA bushings... I wish I knew a shop that would actually work on this thing when I dont want to. LOL
It's not as bad as it seems. You will need a shop to press out/in the bushings, everything else is bolt and unbolt. Remove the inner fenders and all is accessible. Properly supporting the car is the hardest part and the most important.
 
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