Rear Shocks and Springs: One Day?

Brakes, Suspension, Rims and Tires

  1. 1978 NYB

    1978 NYB Warfighter FCBO Gold Member

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    I always plan on a full day to do a major job like that. I also have new U-Bolts and hangar bolts made at Peters Springs and Alignment in Baltimore. They even made a set for me while I was there.

    Peters Spring And Alignment in Baltimore , MD
     
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  2. polara71

    polara71 Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Right again ....
     
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  3. polara71

    polara71 Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Springs and things is a one stop shop for all your spring needs.
     
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  4. bajajoaquin

    bajajoaquin Senior Member

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    Fair to say that the consensus is that it's a full day but still a one day job?
     
  5. 65sporty

    65sporty Old Man with a Hat

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    As long as the bolts come out. In my neck of the woods you have a 50/50 shot.
     
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  6. polara71

    polara71 Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    Yes, give yourself a full day
     
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  7. bajajoaquin

    bajajoaquin Senior Member

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    I think old guys suggestion about measuring and arithmetic is the way to go. It lets me get springs without involving twice.
     
  8. traintech55

    traintech55 Senior Member

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    Wow late to the party again. Now here is my stance.
    1. New u bolts.
    2. No air shocks.
    3. P.B. blaster the heck out of everything.
    4. To quote Saylor, try not to die.
     
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  9. C Body Bob

    C Body Bob Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    There is a product called Cold Shot I believe made by CRC & Deep Creep made by Seafoam. These are far superior to PB Blaster on stuck rusty bolts. If you are worried about breaking a U bolt or shackle. This is what I use on the bumper bolts. They are expensive so I only use them when I'm concerned about breaking a bolt off. PB Blaster on everything else. You need to wire brush the U bolt threads before you spray them. Only takes a few minutes & knocks off much of the rust & road grime. Then spray away. In 30 plus years of taking cars apart & swapping rears I've never broke a U bolt or shackle. Bumper bolts are a different story. I've snapped off dozens. They are in difficult to reach locations & too short to get to with the wire brush.
     
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  10. 1978 NYB

    1978 NYB Warfighter FCBO Gold Member

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    I have used Deep Creep which is a lot better product than PB blaster.
     
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  11. traintech55

    traintech55 Senior Member

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    Anybody got a picture of the can.
     
  12. C Body Bob

    C Body Bob Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    IMG_1598.JPG
     
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  13. traintech55

    traintech55 Senior Member

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  14. C Body Bob

    C Body Bob Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    IMG_1599.JPG I called it cold shot. It's Freeze Off. Another excellent product
     
  15. DocMcNeedy

    DocMcNeedy "Iggy my McBumFuk" FCBO Gold Member

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    jackedup.jpg jackedup2.jpg
     
  16. cantflip

    cantflip Old Jagoff with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    I'm really late here... but this is how I would plan to do this...

    Most has been said already...

    You MUST find a level place to work on the car with a solid enough surface to support your jack stands (asphalt does NOT count)...

    Parts list... U bolts, center bolts(if reusing old springs) flex hose for the rear brakes and shackles if available... I would avoid reusing U bolts... I bet a local truck spring shop can still make you new ones on the spot if necessary, they may have serviceable center bolts on hand too..

    My preferred penetrating oil is ATF... soak everything thoroughly at least once the day before, and a "wire tooth brush" is a good way to clean the threads before you start (but lots of work if you want to risk a wire wheel, face shield advised).

    Disconnect the drive shaft, the brake hose (cut if replacement is ready), you may not damage the steel lines if you're careful. loosen everything while on the car... if you do it ahead of time you should find out what's going to break. Lower the rear of the springs first, use a floor jack under the diff until both sides are free, unbolt the front hangers and roll the axle assembly out on the tires.

    Swap the springs behind the car where you have lots of room, and roll back under... connect the front first, then the floor jack to raise and connect the rear. New brake hose and bleed brakes (if you pinch whats left of the old hose while still attached to the front line, this will go easier)... chances are you will damage an old hose fooling around anyhow... so just go for it.

    Every bolt and bushing has potential to be rusted in place or snap off... the more you are prepared to deal with that the better. Lots of "incorrect" fasteners are available, be careful of grading if you go there (grade 8, not 5). If stuff fights you, be careful to sacrifice only the parts you can get... like drilling a bolt to death to save a front spring mount (been there, done that).

    I know west coast is supposed to be better, but if your car spent time at the beach, you might still have rust frozen stuff due to minimal corrosion protection on these parts.
     
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  17. cantflip

    cantflip Old Jagoff with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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  18. C Body Bob

    C Body Bob Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    IMG_1601.JPG This is your friend.
     
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  19. traintech55

    traintech55 Senior Member

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    And how many of us "Dumbasses" put them on our cars before we got smart and stopped doing it?
     
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  20. C Body Bob

    C Body Bob Old Man with a Hat FCBO Gold Member

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    IMG_1602.JPG 3 inch long 6 point impact socket is your friend.
     
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