Rebuilding rearend

Excellent work there jake I am doing the same thing right now. Told the wife this morning I was going outside to pull my rear end apart. She said well I hope nothing bad comes out of it. LOL

Anyway got it all stripped down today axles and carrier out. Everything inside the drums will need to be replaced. The bearings as well. Mine is a 3.23 open in a 741 carrier and I would like a sure grip. There's a 3.23 SG for sale close by with a 489 case but not sure what the differences are.
 
The 489 case 3.23 and all will go right in only catch is u-joint size if they are not the same you cannot just switch yokes, and swaping the yoke on a 489 case has a certain procedure to it if the u-joints are same you will be good
 
The 489 case 3.23 and all will go right in only catch is u-joint size if they are not the same you cannot just switch yokes, and swaping the yoke on a 489 case has a certain procedure to it if the u-joints are same you will be good

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details.html?adId=574144521

The ad says larger yoke and I'm pretty sure I don't have that. Could maybe find a drive shaft to match but might just keep looking. He's asking $800
 
The 489 case 3.23 and all will go right in only catch is u-joint size if they are not the same you cannot just switch yokes, and swaping the yoke on a 489 case has a certain procedure to it if the u-joints are same you will be good


isnt there a U joint with two different size ends available that could be used?
 
isnt there a U joint with two different size ends available that could be used?

Yes, there is a universal with too different sizes, I pulled my old flange off and got lucky because it was the same spline count as the new one.
 
Excellent work there jake I am doing the same thing right now. Told the wife this morning I was going outside to pull my rear end apart. She said well I hope nothing bad comes out of it. LOL

Anyway got it all stripped down today axles and carrier out. Everything inside the drums will need to be replaced. The bearings as well. Mine is a 3.23 open in a 741 carrier and I would like a sure grip. There's a 3.23 SG for sale close by with a 489 case but not sure what the differences are.

Good luck, mine has gone pretty good, without any issues, but I don't have her on the road yet. The 489 has a 1 7/8 pinion while the 741 has a 1 3/8. The 489 is believed to be stronger. I double checked backlash and runout even though the guy I bought mine from stated it was just rebuilt with new gears. Turns out he was right, good luck. If you need more pics let me know, I have tons.
 
Wow 800 is a lot hope its new, yes there is ujoint I hate going that route because you end up with a bastard part and sure enough it will be the source of a problem if you are on a trip, in my mind anyway. For about 600 you can get a excellent tor-sen diff and some bearings get a backlash reading before you take old one apart switch your ring gear onto new diff and put in in place of non sure grip.
 
isnt there a U joint with two different size ends available that could be used?


I thought so .... when I swapped rears on my brown polara I had to use that U joint... went to the local drive shaft store and bought two... I still have the U joint and dont have the car
 
I could use someone with some rear end experience. How much resistance should there be when the rear end is all together? Drums are not on, and it is still on the bench. I can turn it with my hands at the yoke, but turning it at the axle flange seems to be hard. Is it because of the sure grip is working? I put a drill on the yoke nut and the axles spin smooth, everything seems smooth. If anybody has an extra rear end out in there garage, I would appreciate if they could give it a spin. Thanks Jake
 
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Little by little!

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Looking good man, its always nice when you do something to this standard and you know its like new.
 
Jake, nice job on the housing. How did you clean it up so nice?

I had a local mopar guru install a sure grip in my 741 carrier and re-bearing the axles at the same time. Just got to get the housing blasted and painted / coated.
 
I noticed that your wheel studs are tack welded to the hubs... is this normal?
 
I could use someone with some rear end experience. How much resistance should there be when the rear end is all together? Drums are not on, and it is still on the bench. I can turn it with my hands at the yoke, but turning it at the axle flange seems to be hard. Is it because of the sure grip is working? I put a drill on the yoke nut and the axles spin smooth, everything seems smooth. If anybody has an extra rear end out in there garage, I would appreciate if they could give it a spin. Thanks Jake

The rotating torque should be done without the chuck mounted in the case. It doesn't include the axles... With new pinion bearings and a new seal it should be between 20 and 25 pounds of rotating torque. This is not done with a torque wrench - it's a special type of torque wrench.
 
Living the High Life baby! Great thread and excellent work, really nice job! :icon_thumright:

Thank you very much for documenting with pics.
 
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