Recommendations for waxing/protectant on 68' 300 Grill

sprice

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I have almost completed in my recondition/paint of the 300 grill. Going on about 12 hours and 80% done, not wanting to do this again. Oil based paints applied. An effective traditional wax and buff would be difficult due to the corners and small spaces. Given the intricate design, was wondering if anyone has any recommendations as to a protectant/wax/spray wax that could be applied to seal the paint? Thanks.
 
In the past 5 years, some "protectants" have emerged which are spray on, wash off. Most of them have some "ceramic" or "graphene" technology in them. Many YouTube videos on such and their relative durability. As well as the "Torque" brand might work, in the comparison tests for projected longevity, the Meguiar's (light green liquid) spray-on ceramic coating seems to come out on top, lasting the longest, per their tests. It works on all car finishes, so ought to work on the grille areas, too. With their technology, it is the water that "sets" the chemistry rather than having to rub it off after it dries.

The graphene products are the newest and allegedly the better products, but they require elbow grease to apply and buff off, unless some of the newer ones don't.

Check the YT videos and see what you think.
 
I would love to hear more about what you did and how you did it to get to this point. My 67 grill could use the same, and I have been pondering how to approach it.
 
The best protectant you can use while driving is a bug screen!
After doing all that tedious and detailed work, there is no wax product that will not leave a redidue on such an intracate piece.

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The best protectant you can use while driving is a bug screen!
After doing all that tedious and detailed work, there is no wax product that will not leave a redidue on such an intracate piece.

Bit off topic, but regarding bugs -

Back between the mid-80's to mid-90's when driving (my '65 Polara) between Windsor and London on the 401, in summer evenings I'd have to stop half way at a gas station to clean the bug spatter off the windshield. Driving through lots of farm land.

For the past while, maybe even the past 15 years, I can make the same trip and get practically nothing on the windshield. No bugs. Makes you think about what's going on.

For the 300 grille, what are we talking about? Chrome-plated white metal on forward-facing surface and black oil-based paint on horizontal / vertical surfaces?
 
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The best protectant you can use while driving is a bug screen!
After doing all that tedious and detailed work, there is no wax product that will not leave a residue on such an intricate piece.

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As to the wax residue, the liquid Meguiar's ceramic and some of their synthetic more-premium products do not have the traditional white wax residue. It's noted on their boxes and containers if they do not do this. That is accurate.

I used the original ceramic liquid to shine/protect some instrument panel items on a newer car, like the cruise control buttons and such, from wearing the silk screened lettering off of or deteriorating. I put some on a microfibre rag and applied it. Letting it dry and noticed there was no residue on the surrounding areas, once I removed what was still on the buttons. That changed my mind. I also used their "Ultimate" car wax with similar results a few years ago.

Just my experiences,
CBODY67
 
Bit off topic, but regarding bugs -

Back between the mid-80's to mid-90's when driving (my '65 Polara) between Windsor and London on the 401, in summer evenings I'd have to stop half way at a gas station to clean the bug spatter off the windshield. Driving through lots of farm land.

For the past while, maybe even the past 15 years, I can make the same trip and get practically nothing on the windshield. No bugs. Makes you think about what's going on.

For the 300 grille, what are we talking about? Chrome-plated white metal on forward-facing surface and black oil-based paint on horizontal / vertical surfaces?
The whole grill assembly.





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I would love to hear more about what you did and how you did it to get to this point. My 67 grill could use the same, and I have been pondering how to approach it.
I posted some photos above. I am very pleased on how the center section turned out. The corner extensions, not so. I will post on the job once it's complete and back together.
 
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IMHO, most of the spray "waxes" or "polishes" with ceramic or graphene in them isn't going to do much for you. Ceramic and graphene coatings need to be applied to properly prepped surfaces and by someone that knows what they are doing. In fact, some of those coatings are only sold to pros. From what I see, it's totally marketing and nothing to be gained in a consumer grade spray.

That out of the way... A spray coating is the way to go... I think I would use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0779KCS7D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and actually, I'd use that on the whole car (In fact, I do just that) For something you could pick up at the local store, something like Turtle Wax Ice spray and detailer is decent stuff... I use them on my daily drivers. Maguires would also have something good.

Once you've applied a good coating or three, use your favorite detail spray to maintain it and it will be good.

If you want to use something with ceramic or graphene in it, go ahead... It won't hurt. There's just nothing to be gained. I tried a couple different types and they seemed harder to apply and definitely didn't last longer.
 
Everything you're going to find about car coatings is going to be geared towards being applied to painted surfaces (which almost always is the clear-coat layer) or applied to a plastic surface. Because cars don't have bright metal trim any more.

You might do better looking for coating products designed for wheels, but there again you're going to see stuff for aluminum surfaces, not stainless or chrome-plated white metal.

But on another level, ask yourself what do I want this coating to do? They throw around the term "protect" and "protectant" a lot, and it's a very comforting word but it really can't be measured.

For metal grillwork, I think it's always going to come back to a wax of some sort. Wax and elbow grease, q-tips, detail brushes.

Here's a few things I've found doing a search, I've never used these:


 
Everything you're going to find about car coatings is going to be geared towards being applied to painted surfaces (which almost always is the clear-coat layer) or applied to a plastic surface. Because cars don't have bright metal trim any more.

You might do better looking for coating products designed for wheels, but there again you're going to see stuff for aluminum surfaces, not stainless or chrome-plated white metal.

But on another level, ask yourself what do I want this coating to do? They throw around the term "protect" and "protectant" a lot, and it's a very comforting word but it really can't be measured.

For metal grillwork, I think it's always going to come back to a wax of some sort. Wax and elbow grease, q-tips, detail brushes.

Here's a few things I've found doing a search, I've never used these:

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The Collinite Metal Wax is the best stuff I've ever used on chrome. In fact, one of the businesses I was partners in was next door to their factory in Utica.

For regular use, it's a tad messy and as careful as you can be, you are going to get it on the painted surface. It's not too hard to clean off, but for regular use, it could be a pain. Also, the Metal Wax has some mild abrasive in it, making it something you don't want to use all the time on chrome and I figure that big grille will need to be cleaned up often. Then it makes sense to have a protective coating that can be easily sprayed and wiped, or sprayed and wiped with detail spray.

For example, when I got my 300L home, the chrome got cleaned up with the Collinite Metal Wax, then it got coated with Collinite 845 Insulator wax along with the rest of the car, then topped with Bead Maker. When needed, or if it gets washed, it gets sprayed with detail spray, just like the rest of the car.

Protection can be measured though. While there are things like gloss meters that can measure loss of gloss, the simple way is to see if water still beads. If it beads, there is still a coating that repels water (and dirt).
 
I used Ever Brite after removing the anodize and polishing all the aluminum trim on my 1965 Belvedere. I also used it on the all-aluminum engine to preserve the appearance.
Mike
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