Refurbish time

So my original throttle rod bracket is too short to reach the new height of my carb. That radius there is impacting the side of the manifold. I thought I saw factory brackets that could accommodate higher rise intakes?

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How far off is the bracket Gary .....? Perhaps cut short pieces of tubeing to raise it and add longer bolts....... ? Your next issue could be the accl cable to short. as well as the kick down rod.

"cause & effect ..... chain of events"....! Is it worth all the trouble to have a hign rise manifold over the OEM manifold on a street driver .....? I never thought so
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How far off is the bracket Gary .....? Perhaps cut short pieces of tubeing to raise it and add longer bolts....... ? Your next issue could be the accl cable to short. as well as the kick down rod.

"cause & effect ..... chain of events"....! Is it worth all the trouble to have a hign rise manifold over the OEM manifold on a street driver .....? I never thought so
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Its too small, Wil. I don'T want to force it or it may strip the bolt....and raising it will not give the manifold bolts enough "meat" to bite into on the manifold itself. Oh yes its definitely worth it.
 
In all seriousness A R engineering had throttle brackets for aftermarket manifolds.
yeah I've seen them. Seems like they have many different iterations for B.and RB motors. Problem is my knockdown mechanism is not the "3 piece" version. My throttle rod comes.up from the transmission and goes straight to the bracket, there's no "lever" hanging of the back of the valve cover. I did not see application for mine.
 
Grind the radius bigger, the manifold has got to stay.

How does one grind something "bigger"........? :poke:

If there is an aftermarket bracket avaliable, that would be the best choice.
It sounds like you have the same kickdown rod that I have. when I changed to the edlebrock carb I had to fab a piece for the carb linkage to obtain the correct length and adjustment. The other option is to extend the length of the rod by welding a section into it.
 

How does one grind something "bigger"........? :poke:

If there is an aftermarket bracket avaliable, that would be the best choice.
It sounds like you have the same kickdown rod that I have. when I changed to the edlebrock carb I had to fab a piece for the carb linkage to obtain the correct length and adjustment. The other option is to extend the length of the rod by welding a section into it.
ground out or open up the radius ..the area of the bracket that impacts the manifold surface.
I'm definitely not.doing any welding b/c a. I don't have equipment, b. I don't know how (although I'm going to learn for obvious reasons, c. I don't want it to be cheesy looking modification.
 
I'm definitely not.doing any welding b/c a. I don't have equipment, b. I don't know how c. I don't want it to be cheesy looking modification.

Once you determine the needed extra length, you hire it out. I would think that there is a small fab shop somewere near you that could do a nice job for not to much $$$.
 
This might be one you have to farm out Gary, or learn to weld on lol...

A buddy just recently went through this trouble on his car installing an RPM on his 440. Had to cut, and weld both the linkage, and kickdown rod.







I had an RPM on my old Newport. The previous owner installed spacers, and longer bolts between the factory linkage, and manifold. However, it had a manual valve body in the trans, so no worry for the kickdown cable. Plus with the spacers, it would of thrown it all out of whack, and not lined up with the kickdown. Its a bad pic, but you can see the spacers.



Looks like your gonna have to install a lokar cable, if you don't want to do any welding..

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-xkd-2727ht?seid=srese1&gclid=CJ2bqqq4z8ECFWkV7AodO1UAhQ
 
Rick Ehrenberg the tech guru for mopar action sells a high rise throttle setup for the taller intake manifolds. That maybe the route to go.... I'll see if I can get you the link.
 
This might be one you have to farm out Gary, or learn to weld on lol...

A buddy just recently went through this trouble on his car installing an RPM on his 440. Had to cut, and weld both the linkage, and kickdown rod.







Nice, thats what I had in mind. Not a big challange for a fab welder.

 
This might be one you have to farm out Gary, or learn to weld on lol...

A buddy just recently went through this trouble on his car installing an RPM on his 440. Had to cut, and weld both the linkage, and kickdown rod.




I had an RPM on my old Newport. The previous owner installed spacers, and longer bolts between the factory linkage, and manifold. However, it had a manual valve body in the trans, so no worry for the kickdown cable. Plus with the spacers, it would of thrown it all out of whack, and not lined up with the kickdown. Its a bad pic, but you can see the spacers.



Looks like your gonna have to install a lokar cable, if you don't want to do any welding..
I'd rather do the welding thing than go with the cable system. I don't like trashing original parts. Looks like your buddy's rig turned out nicely.
 
the three piece system which has a pivot on the rear of the valve cover.QUOTE]

That system attaches to the rear of the cylinder head and is called a "bell crank".

Oh,got it. Well,I don't have that one or I could grab a Mancini, Bouchillion, AREngineering replacement piece. I might hit up the shop that did my.heads and see if the guy would be willing to weld.up my.bracket and lengthen my throttle rod. This fix doesn't need to be too.complicated.
 
That fabrication for the RPM setup is flawless. Looks factory!

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He did do a great job on it. The horrible thing about it though, is he's probably going to have to take it back off, and go back to factory. It looks like the intake is too tall!
 
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