Removing the nut from a ball joint or tie rod end?

[D Cluley]

It seems like most of the time, the nut is stuck to the stud enough that the whole ball assembly turns instead of the nut unscrewing. I suspect the answer is just get the dremel tool out & split the nut, but I figured I'd ask in case I'm just not seeing something.

 

[Toolmanmike]

An impact wrench usually spins them off. If not, load the joint. Put tension on it so the ball doesn't spin. Sometimes they can be a turd to get apart.

 

[detmatt]

Always start hitting jobs like this with a good penetrant for consecutive days before you plan to tackle it.

 

[thethee]

Last time I struggled with a nut stuck like that I used a pair of adjustable joint pliers to force the taper of the tie rod end and the center link together to prevent it from spinning. Vice grips couldn't open wide enough. Then had my dad remove the nut with just a regular wrench.

 

[Big_John]

Buy a nut splitter if you aren't reusing the nut. Less than $20.

 

[WOT440]

Amazon product ASIN B000F09CF4

Kroil Penetrating oil, then hit it with some heat, and an impact wrench. If that doesn't work, do what Big John said.

 

[fury fan]

After you get the cotter pin out (the carter pin, for some folks!), you can try to put a pin in the hole to try and hold it.
The drawback, is to get any revolutions off the nut, you need a small pin and need to keep fiddling with it, and if the castle of the nut blocks the hole, this method fails.

The prior suggestions work better.

 

[Big_John]

After you get the cotter pin out (the carter pin, for some folks!), you can try to put a pin in the hole to try and hold it.
The drawback, is to get any revolutions off the nut, you need a small pin and need to keep fiddling with it, and if the castle of the nut blocks the hole, this method fails.

The prior suggestions work better.

I'm gonna start calling it a Carter pin now.

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

Torch the mudderfucker off!

.

 

[D Cluley]

Buy a nut splitter if you aren't reusing the nut. Less than $20.

View attachment 605879

I have one of these, Nut Splitter but just realized that it is designed a little differently. On mine the cutter is fixed, and the screw pushes a "foot" against the side of the nut, and I did not have great luck using it on a castle nut because the solid side of the nut isn't tall enough and it walks up and slides off. Will have to try the other kind.

Thanks to all for the suggestions. I only had time to work on one tie rod this evening, and a combination of nut splitter and dremel cut off wheels worked nicely.

 

[MONC440]

Hi Dan,

Looks like you are into another project on the convertible. I have put a bottle jack under the tie rod end to put pressure on the tapper and had good luck. If all else fails use the heat wrench.

Did you get your top replaced over the winter?

John

 

[D Cluley]

Hi Dan,

Looks like you are into another project on the convertible. I have put a bottle jack under the tie rod end to put pressure on the tapper and had good luck. If all else fails use the heat wrench.

Did you get your top replaced over the winter?

John

Yes, this year is suspension maintanence. Not sure how much I'm going to do, so breaking it down into stages. The lower control arm bushings are completely shot, and I suspect at least one lower ball joint is getting worn, so I'm starting by pulling all of the lower front suspension and replacing all of that. We'll see how much time, money & patience is left after that stuff is back on.

The top got done last August. There is a thread with the details here. Replacing my convertible top - 1965 Chrysler

I was pretty satisfied with it last year, and it actually has even fewer wrinkles after sitting all winter.

 

[fury fan]

If you're doing the LCA bushings then the strut rod bushings are readily accessible.
FWIW - the B-body polyurethane bushings interchange with C-body. I have a set in use for 15+ years and they are trouble-free.