Repairing emblem studs?

HWYCRZR

Old Man with a Hat
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My Polara emblems are in pretty nice shape with no pitting and should clean up nicely. But a couple of the studs twisted off when removing the thread cutting nuts. Has anyone had success with JB weld epoxy? Or ordering the special welding rod for pot metal and re- attaching them?
Thank you

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If those are the same as 66, I have spares. I can check to see if I have any nice enough.
 
JB Weld is not strong enough to last. Next time, use some spray lube before you attempt to take the nuts off. A lot of these things were over tightened at the factory, so they are fragile.

Dave
 
Thanks. P/n on back of emblem is 2579668.
 
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JB Weld is not strong enough to last. Next time, use some spray lube before you attempt to take the nuts off. A lot of these things were over tightened at the factory, so they are fragile.

Dave

I was new when I took these off in 2007. :rolleyes:
 
You could try to grind out the area where the stud was, then embed a machine screw with an epoxy. Use machine nut to attach.
 
Has anyone tried the Muggy weld alloy 1? They also have a “cool blue” form able material so that you can isolate the weld spot and prevent heat transfer. They say it melts at about 350 degrees 1/2 of pot metal melting point.


Looks interesting but it is usually the torsion factor that causes repair joints to fail though.
 
You could try to grind out the area where the stud was, then embed a machine screw with an epoxy. Use machine nut to attach.
Actually it is twisted off flush. And there is room for a drill bit to drill in a starter hole.
That could be a solution.
Thanks
 
My only thought would be to drill the mounting boss and either cold-weld epoxy or tap the hole (or both) for a piece of threaded rod and a tiny nut. Hit a hardware store or even a hobby shop for some really small diameter threaded stuff.
 
Welding pot metal is a very risky deal best left to a pro. It's very easy to wreck an otherwise good moulding.
Actually it is twisted off flush. And there is room for a drill bit to drill in a starter hole.
That could be a solution.
Thanks
I have done this!! Take a small drill and just start a hole, more just like a indentation so that the head of a small screw will fit and JB Weld it in. A nut and small washer on the back side works. Just note that that screw will not take a lot of torque to it before breaking off. It's better then nothing, Good Luck.
 
Wow. These are smaller pins than I thought asI look at it closer. I am not sure I can use a big enough drill bit to get good support on a small machine screw.
The pins themselves are 1/8” little to no base. I need think about what I am doing before I start drilling.
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This front molding piece that is 3/8” will be much easier.
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As a plan B you might consider drilling a hole through the front in a negative-area (typically painted black) countersink a machine screw and give the area a "wipe" with some epoxy, then repaint it black. Of course this would necessitate a couple new holes in the sheetmetal, but if well done, would be all but invisible and probably stronger than when new.

It does look like your emblems could be so thin that they don't have a negative area. :(
 
Yes they are very dainty. But. I used a small file to file the remaining parts of the pin smooth and flat. Then I used a pick and started a hole in the center of the old pin. Starting with a 1/16” drill and a drill hand crank. I think I can progress up to hopefully almost 1/8” drill. There is about an 1/8” seat down in between the ridges that I would like to tap and epoxy. We will see where this takes me.
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Dude! I totally forgot to look at my stash! I'm at a ball game for my birthday, I'll look when I get back. Give me until tomorrow to let you know what I have. I know I have extras, quality is the only issue.
 
Have a happy birthday. That takes priority. They only come once a year.
 
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