Resurrection of my 1970 Chrysler 300 Convertible

[detmatt]

Excellent work!

 

[Samplingman]

The motor was in-op and very corroded from the salty New York winters. The case literally crumbled. I took it apart, cleaned up the insides and rebuilt the case with JB Weld Steel Stick. The motor runs now outside the frame, I will have to wait and see if it works under load.

 

[Samplingman]

The switch was a challenge, but like all the other components to these cars, it all came apart to reveal its mysteries. After a thorough cleaning, it took a few times of taking apart and reassembly to get the contacts gapped correctly. All the switch positions work consistently now.

Assembled and ready for installation.

 

[Samplingman]

The manual passenger seat was much simpler. Here, the seat bottoms are in decent shape. I used a combo of Rust Dissolve and Coreseal rust converter to treat the springs and seat base. Again, replacement of the seat studs using stock Lowe’s stainless carriage bolts. OEM studs on eBay were $20 for 4, I picked up a box of 10 for $10.

I will eventually replace the manual tracks with another power seat.

Almost there! I have sound deadening and new carpet to install, but they look pretty good mocked in place. I used Magic Eraser to clean up the vinyl.

 

[rags]

that repair work on the electrical components is awesome to see. people are so quick to dispose of things that look bad but in reality have simple problems and can be repaired with a little effort.

 

[Samplingman]

that repair work on the electrical components is awesome to see. people are so quick to dispose of things that look bad but in reality have simple problems and can be repaired with a little effort.

Thanks! I always try cleaning and fixing first. So far I’ve only destroyed the power antenna, but was lucky enough to find another working unit.

 

[D Cluley]

For seat covers, check Dante's Mopar Parts.

They usually sell the Legendary covers for a lot less than getting them direct from Legendary.

 

[Samplingman]

For seat covers, check Dante's Mopar Parts.

They usually sell the Legendary covers for a lot less than getting them direct from Legendary.

Cool!

 

[fury fan]

I remember doing all of that R&R on a power seat track many years ago. Same as you did - all the disassembly, painting, lubing.
Never again! (until the next time, anyway)

 

[live4theking]

Looks good.

 

[Samplingman]

So you’d think installing a power antenna would be a simple project? Ha! My car is tagged for a power antenna, but my fenders are from a non-power car. Turns out the hole is not only in the wrong spot but it is too big for the power antenna bezel. The power unit hits up against the heater fan motor, so it needed to be relocated forward about 7 inches. Thanks to @Big_John for the correct measurements.

 

[Samplingman]

Ready for mud work! I had to do a bit of grinding and adjusting some of my awful metal work, but it’s time to start finishing, lol.

When it comes to paint stripping, non of the currently available chemicals can even scratch the surface, literally. Then I discovered the SCT (surface conditioning tool) from Eastwood. Harbor Freight had it for half the price and it did a spectacular job.

Look at that shine!

Without paint you get the full fuselage effect. I might just clear coat and call it a day.

 

[Samplingman]

Finished off the day with 3 coats of epoxy primer. I was in a hurry since a thunderstorm was approaching, but the tent held up an I got the job done. I really like the way it laid out and the semi gloss shows all the spots that need work.

 

[Big_John]

Then I discovered the SCT (surface conditioning tool) from Eastwood. Harbor Freight had it for half the price and it did a spectacular job.

Everything I've seen says the Harbor Freight version is just as good at a lower price.

It wouldn't surprise me if the same Chinese factory made both.

 

[Samplingman]

Now turning to side two. Found some rust I missed. More paint stripping and topped off with epoxy prime. I also missed some bondo on the the Dutch panel, but fortunately it is rust free.

Ugh, getting the body lines and these panels straight are going be a challenge.

 

[73Coupe]

That debrider tool sure leaves a nice finish. What type of abrasive is it .... or sandpaper grit equivalent?

 

[Samplingman]

That debrider tool sure leaves a nice finish. What type of abrasive is it .... or sandpaper grit equivalent?

I used the 40 grit stripping drum to get paint, primer and old bondo off, then the 240 grit polishing drum. There is a 120
Intermediate drum with these goofy metallic “leaves” which didn’t seem to do much, so I went from the 40 to the 240 with good results.

 

[73Coupe]

I used the 40 grit stripping drum to get paint, primer and old bondo off, then the 240 grit polishing drum. There is a 120
Intermediate drum with these goofy metallic “leaves” which didn’t seem to do much, so I went from the 40 to the 240 with good results.

View attachment 601309View attachment 601310

Looks like a scotchbrite type of medium......

 

[live4theking]

Looking good.

 

[Big_John]

I used the 40 grit stripping drum to get paint, primer and old bondo off, then the 240 grit polishing drum. There is a 120
Intermediate drum with these goofy metallic “leaves” which didn’t seem to do much, so I went from the 40 to the 240 with good results.

View attachment 601309View attachment 601310

Do those last a while?