Road Wheel Balance: Rear Weights Only?

1970FuryConv

Old Man with a Hat
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I have bought a set of Road Wheels for my 1970 Plymouth Fury convertible.
I took them and my Cooper tires to a service station to have the tires mounted and balanced.
I thought the trim rings would cover up the front balance weights. And I thought there would be room for the weights under the trim rings.
But, the trim rings don't seat all the way against the rims. They bow up particularly high at the tire valve opening. There's only one front wheel weight per rim.
Should I have had him only put balance weights on the rear of the rims?
Or is there some other explanation, like the wrong trim rings?
As always, thanks for your help! Ben
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The explanation is the new tire weights are not lead and some of them are thicker Than the old style. Do you have a photo of the weights they put on to see if they are too thick?
 
Trims rings are right...I have never had issues...413 is likely on to something.
 
The explanation is the new tire weights are not lead and some of them are thicker Than the old style. Do you have a photo of the weights they put on to see if they are too thick?
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An example. Wrong Weight?
If so, Is there a place to get older style weights?
Thanks for any solution. Ben
 
The old, bare nekkid lead weights should work just fine. MIGHT need to split the weight into two smaller weights in order to possibly work around any trim ring clips or similar.

The plastic-coated (more square-cornered) weights were originally for factory aluminum wheels. They are a bit thicker for the same physical weight. They do look nicer on the factory aluminum wheel.

CBODY67
 
Might also consider putting the weights on the inner side of the wheel if the tire only needs a small amount of weight. We used to do that on the wheels balanced using a bubble type balancer. There also used to be weights with an elongated mounting tab to clear the hub cap or trim ring.

Dave
 
I don’t know what is wrong with your setup, but I have heard that the full rotating assembly wheel balancers provides the best balance.
They are hard to find.


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Most new cars and light trucks sold in the US feature zinc or steel wheel weights, and all new cars and light trucks sold in the US have been free of lead wheel weights since 2009.
The MH weights shown are incorrect for steel wheels. They are for alloy wheels which is why they stick out.
You need P type weights.
I had Road wheels in the past and used regular uncoated wheel weights both sides and trim rings fit just fine.
I do not recommend static balancing ( weights inside only) as it is an approximation not an accurate balance.
I have been in the tire biz for 25 years.

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I don’t know what is wrong with your setup, but I have heard that the full rotating assembly wheel balancers provides the best balance.
They are hard to find.


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They balance the entire rotting assy., not just the tire/wheel. Must be re-balanced with each tire rotation. Also, if the particular wheel is removed, mark the valve stem position with a chalk mark on the end of a lug stud, too.

Have to watch for little gravel items in the tire treads, too!!!

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
Put them on the inside. Spin balancing is nonsense, unless you are going to spin the whole hub/brake and wheel(see post #9).
Much like the car salesman, tire salesman are thieves. Buy the tires carry them out the door, and for the same money they "add" on for one set, you can buy a bubble balancer and tire spoons and a bead breaker. Want real dynamic balance? Buy the balance powder for your size tire. Grease gets on your rim from tie rod PM it will correct it. I have never seen this offered at a car level, but they will sell you any number of "spin balance" packages which are negated as soon as they loosen the wheel from the machine.
Ask them to spin balance a tire while you watch them remove from machine. Take the wheel and flip it twice, or pull the label they love to leave, and have them redo it it will give a different result. Don't believe more than 15% of what comes out of a tire person's mouth. Vague statements, with a you drove your car/or your car has problems.
Go to any retail store place. They will have a chart that has worn tires on it. Nothing on that chart ever says defective tire, it's always your vehicle or bad maintenance. I will agree it takes attention to keep tires properly inflated all the time. Sometimes it's just a POS tire.
Rant over.
 
Weights are not hitting clips
I think P-type weights or moving them to the rear is a solution.
 
Many of the wheel weights from the old days had a longer mount clip that dropped the weight below where it interfered with a flush hubcap mount. They dont make those anymore. Stick on weights work fine on the face of the wheel.
 
Patrick says he has ordered correct wheel weights because the owner of an older Ford with trim rings is having the same problem.
Weights should be in by end of next week.
 
My wheel man was not able to get low profile wheel weights. Balanced using back side of rims only.
1970 Fury has new shoes. Road wheels, first attempt at a resto. First test drive, excellent!
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